Elric

Well just waiting my engine to return from warranty work. I scored the piston and sleeve by a lean run, obviously. I had 13 flights on it and maybe 4 tanks on the ground. Could never get it to run right except on the leaner side. It would stall when it was running rich. It never seemed to have much power either. I was running about an 11x6 prop. I know these are slow to break in, and I may have had the bottom end a little rich in hindsight, but anybody know what I should do to break this in correctly? The manual is pretty vague. ( am I the only one frustrated when I hear 'run rich, but not too rich' ? Any suggestions would be appreciated. :disappoin :disappoin

downunder-RCU

I think you mean 50SX? If so, these are a ringed engine and need to be run in completely differently to an ABC type. Use a fuel with plenty of oil in it (20%+ and with a fair bit of castor). For the first few runs with a ringed engine there's no such thing as "too rich"...the richer the better even if it means keeping the plug connected. It'll be running in a slobbering rich 4 stroke and that's the sound you should continue to hear from it for the next 30 or 40 minutes even when you start to lean it out a bit. Don't let it get into a 2 stroke sound until then. It should be OK to fly with after that 40 minutes or so but only if it will fly when leaned just barely into a clean 2 stroke.

The secret with ringed engines is rich rich rich and PATIENCE Do it right and it'll outlast anything you've had before.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

My .50 CX is an ABC type engine and I suspect this one is too. I believe the ringed engines are designated SS engines. I checked their website and they now have a .50CX TN and .50SS TN, Sorry Down, I didn't know you were already on this.

Elric

Yes Mine is very definately the 50CX (non-ringed ABC or ABN .forget which), not the SS. Is the SS really ringed? Didn`t know that. What type of carb is on the SS? Can`t say I`m a big fan of the angled needle the way Enya does it. Mine came loose twice and I had to take the carb apart to get the microscopic nut on tight. (evidently not tight enough. I think this is what happened on my "lean" run.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The SS does have a ring and now a TN carb, it used to be airbleed. I also have a .45 SS and it is airbleed, you can check them out at "www.modelrectifier.com" My .50 CX has the two needle carb but it is not angled back. My .53 fourstroke has a TN carb but my old .46MKII has an airbleed.

DarZeelon

Elric,

This tapered bore engine should be broken-in according to this method:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...59&forumid=145

The break-in should be over and done within two, maybe three tanks. When cold, it should retain the "pinch" at TDC and it is NOT a sign that the engine is not broken-in yet.

If your engine never ran right, you apparently broke it in wrong.
Else, you haven't mastered its adjustment technique.

When you get it back, do it the right way. NEVER run it in, at a four-cycle rich setting. Mind that you don't make it too lean either..

ZAGNUT

My Feedback: (1)

the .50cx is an ABC engine while the rest of the cx line are AAC. the enya AAC engines have got to be some of the most durable ever made, they can be tortured, run on any fuel, overheated, and run wide open with no break-in with no ill effects. why enya chose to use a brass sleeve on the .50 is a mystery to me.

dave

downunder-RCU

Ohhhh...my bad! For some reason I didn't even notice it was an Enya...I was thinking OS 50 SX

But I'm glad to see that some people have discovered the true jewel of the Orient...

ZAGNUT

My Feedback: (1)

downunder, i've always considered you as an enya expert so i was kinda worried after seeing your first post, i thought you lost your marbles!

on some web site i read that "enyas are good but not as good as o.s." obviously written by someone who hasn't used enyas, they truly are the "true jewel of the Orient". most of enya's current 2-stroke designs are quite old but will still outperform and outlast any thing os has to offer.

dave

maxtenet

I have fifteen year old Enyas that are still used every season on Trainer planes The old 4006 models. They seem to get better every year. Patience with break in will reward you with the most reliable engine out there. It will probably outlast your car! They are the best of the Japanese engines in terms of quality.

Max

Elric

DarZeelon,
Hey just thought you would find this interesting :
My Enya 50 CX (with the great warranty) tells you to : quote " Run the engine rich for the first couple of hours " about break in. They don`t even specify rich two stroke. This is completely careless. How many engines out there must NOT be running up to par? And wouldn`t this keep their repair department swamped? I am fairly new to RC but I am thankful that I read your advise on breaking in an ABC, FIRST! THANK YOU.

DarZeelon

Elric,

This "medical condition" of not specifying two-cycle, or four-cycle mode, is common also to other engine manufacturers.

I simply don't know of any other name to call it. The manufacturer of ASP/Magnum, MVVS, Rossi (they call rich; "greasy") and many other don't specify it either.

Their engineers apparently think that us, brain-less modelers do not know our lawn-mower from an electric shaver and cannot determine if the engine is running in four-cycle, or in two-cycle mode....

Strangely, it is OS that I do commend here. Their break-in instructions are/were admitted to be wrong (for tapered bores), but they do state the two conditions in them.
Furthermore, Bax now specifically urges staying out of four-cycle, when breaking-in a tapered bore engine.

downunder-RCU

Actually many new modellers DON'T know the difference between 2 stroking and 4 stroking. It's not really surprising either because it's not natural to even consider that our engines can run in a 4 stroke. Once familiar with it the sound is quite unmistakeable though.