hello everyone. i got an ASP .40 engine for christmas. no instructions, no anything. on the outside of the box is a sticker that reads S40 and AII. i punched that in and found it on a hobby site under ASP engines. anyway, my question is, on every picture ive seen, the needle valve is right on the carb, but on mine, its a remote, bolted to the crank case cover. is this a design change because of the problems theyve had, or am i not looking at the right engine? thanks for any help i can get.

Hi!
You can mount the high speed needle both at the rear and directly to the carb . To mount it to the carb , just unscrew the big nut on the carb!

One of the best .40 sport engines on the market today.
Turns a10x6 RAM prop (British prop) at 14600rpm. Capable of turning a 12x6 prop with ease.

Runs good on 0-5% nitro. 15% nitrois just overkill!

so the guy at the LHS completely messed up. he gave me15% and a #8 glo plug. i opened the fuel, so will it run ok on 15%? also, i read a review where i was told to use a #7 plug, it runs better. any ideas on all this. im new to new engines. the others i bought were all os and used. thanks.

The 15% fuel and the #8 plug will be fine

I wouldn't run a 12X6 prop on any .40 size engine including this ASP. Most .60 size engines run on a 12X6. It's too much load and will prematurely wear out the engine or damage it. I've seen people do this before. 10X6 is what the engine calls for.

It's made in China. It's an average sport engine on the market today.

The 10X6 prop is the go to prop for any .40. If you have trouble running the engine on 15% you can get a much colder plug from Merlin Plugs.

A 10x6 prop is normal for the engine. Maybe a 11x4 to 11x5 prop if needed. Possibly a 11x6 prop might work, but it would load down the engine a lot though.
5% nitro to 15% nitro glow fuel is what you want to use. I prefer glow fuel with a bend of synthetic and castor oil lubricant in it.
A Fox standard long glow plug is just fine, if you want to, you can use the RC long glow plugs with a idle bar on them, but you do not have to.
The remote main needle valve is a safety feature to try and keep people from sticking their fingers in the propeller when the engine is running. It has no effect on how the engine runs. technically the remote needle valve can cause a slight time delay in how the engine responds to needle valve changes, but it isn't anything to worry about.

If you are still interested in getting a paper copy of the instructions for your engine, go to Tower Hobbies.com and download the factory manual for the Magnums XLS 46. The prop recommendations will be off because of the size difference, but everything else is what you need. The ASP and Magnum engines are identical except for the logo on the crankcase. From previous posts by others, the Magnum manual is much, much better than what is supplied with ASP engines.

Magnum manuals . . .

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com/

thanks for all the good suggestions! ive written everything down. the fuel i have is a blend, but i have to get a smaller prop. also, i went to tower hobbies, found the link for global hobby, and magnum now has a .40 engine i got the manual for. while im getting all this good advice, any more on breaking in this engine?? please keep it comming. i want to do this right! also, i have an os .46 sf. i want to get a new glo plug for it. any suggestions? thanks for anymore advice.