anybody know the difference?
04-09-2011 | 12:51 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Southeastern,
OH
anybody know the difference?
I'm looking for an inexpensive engine for an OMP Yak 65" profile. I'm looking at the ASP engines and found 1 place that caries them. I'm looking at the ASP .91 but I'm a little confused. I don't know what the difference is between these 3 engines. Anybody know what the difference is? Here's the links to the engines. The descriptions sure don't tell much.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/72p-s91aii.html
http://www.hobbypartz.com/72p-s91a.html
http://www.hobbypartz.com/fm01-10-s9...troengine.html
Thanks
http://www.hobbypartz.com/72p-s91aii.html
http://www.hobbypartz.com/72p-s91a.html
http://www.hobbypartz.com/fm01-10-s9...troengine.html
Thanks
04-09-2011 | 02:56 PM
#3
RE: anybody know the difference?
The 91A both have the needle valve built into the carb.
The 91AII has a remote needle valve.
The one for $130 dollars very likely has a ASP on the side or the crankcase whereas the $103 dollar one is generic with no ASP logo on the side of the crankcase. It could also have been a earlier version which was sold at the higher price before the generic price reduced models came in.
They come in a plain white box with no instructions. But one does not really need instructions if they have some experience running glow engines.
At these prices there is little to no support and no parts.
The 91AII has a remote needle valve.
The one for $130 dollars very likely has a ASP on the side or the crankcase whereas the $103 dollar one is generic with no ASP logo on the side of the crankcase. It could also have been a earlier version which was sold at the higher price before the generic price reduced models came in.
They come in a plain white box with no instructions. But one does not really need instructions if they have some experience running glow engines.
At these prices there is little to no support and no parts.
04-10-2011 | 05:10 AM
#7
Senior Member
RE: anybody know the difference?
ORIGINAL: Live Wire
Look at the muffler.
Look at the muffler.
That's not the difference.
HobbyKing offers the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8987]ASP 1.08[/link] for $78.90 and the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8988]ASP .61[/link] for $61.60...
Those offers for the ASP .91 at $103.85, or at $130.77, do seem quite expensive.
04-10-2011 | 05:56 AM
#8
RE: anybody know the difference?
The price difference between HobbyPartz and HobbyKing are due to HobbyPartz being in the USA and HobbyKing being in Hong Kong. The price increase is due to shipping and import taxes. Actually here in the USA, HobbyPartz winds up being a little cheaper to buy from as the shipping costs from Hong Kong to the USA raise the cost to more than what HobbyPartz sells them for. HobbyPartz had a free shipping offer on everything for a long time too.
Now the HobbyKing version ASP engines do have the ASP logo on the crankcase, whereas the HobbyPartz ones have a blank side. The HobbyKing versions come in a nicer looking ASP logo box and have a small instruction sheet, whereas the HobbyPartz ASP engines come in a plain white box and no instructions.
Now the HobbyKing version ASP engines do have the ASP logo on the crankcase, whereas the HobbyPartz ones have a blank side. The HobbyKing versions come in a nicer looking ASP logo box and have a small instruction sheet, whereas the HobbyPartz ASP engines come in a plain white box and no instructions.
04-10-2011 | 07:37 AM
#9
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: anybody know the difference?
ORIGINAL: DarZeelon
It appears to be the same muffler for all.
That's not the difference.
HobbyKing offers the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8987]ASP 1.08[/link] for $78.90 and the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8988]ASP .61[/link] for $61.60...
Those offers for the ASP .91 at $103.85, or at $130.77, do seem quite expensive.
ORIGINAL: Live Wire
Look at the muffler.
Look at the muffler.
That's not the difference.
HobbyKing offers the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8987]ASP 1.08[/link] for $78.90 and the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8988]ASP .61[/link] for $61.60...
Those offers for the ASP .91 at $103.85, or at $130.77, do seem quite expensive.
As Dar suggests, I bought the ASP 1.08 (2) when they were on sale at Hobby King. Mine were $70 each.
Ed Cregger
04-10-2011 | 05:11 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Southeastern,
OH
RE: anybody know the difference?
ORIGINAL: NM2K
As Dar suggests, I bought the ASP 1.08 (2) when they were on sale at Hobby King. Mine were $70 each.
Ed Cregger
ORIGINAL: DarZeelon
It appears to be the same muffler for all.
That's not the difference.
HobbyKing offers the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8987]ASP 1.08[/link] for $78.90 and the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8988]ASP .61[/link] for $61.60...
Those offers for the ASP .91 at $103.85, or at $130.77, do seem quite expensive.
ORIGINAL: Live Wire
Look at the muffler.
Look at the muffler.
That's not the difference.
HobbyKing offers the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8987]ASP 1.08[/link] for $78.90 and the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8988]ASP .61[/link] for $61.60...
Those offers for the ASP .91 at $103.85, or at $130.77, do seem quite expensive.
As Dar suggests, I bought the ASP 1.08 (2) when they were on sale at Hobby King. Mine were $70 each.
Ed Cregger
I looked at the 1.08 from HK and thought about it. The shipping comes out to about $35 so the price is higher than Hobbypartz. Hobbypartz is out of the 1.08. I found a place that lists the specs for the .91 and 1.08. There isn't much difference in stated HP. The .91 will fit the fuse opening better than the 1.08. I'll have to grind out about 5mm for the 1.08 to fit. I'm leaning towards the .91 since I now know the difference, I need to decide if I want the remote needle or not. Not sure if there is any running/performance difference between the needle locations. I just have to figure if I want the .91A or the .91AII since the only difference is the needle valve location. Maybe I should go with the remote needle due to missing part of a finger from a prop. LOL
As cheap as some engines are now days, if it's something other than bearings, they become throw away items. If parts are needed, it looks like Just Engines has parts but they are in England.
Here's a link to a review for the .91.
http://www.justengines.unseen.org/ac...Dorling__.html
Thanks all. I didn't know the difference was the needle valve assembly.
04-10-2011 | 07:57 PM
#11
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: anybody know the difference?
ORIGINAL: madman75
I looked at the 1.08 from HK and thought about it. The shipping comes out to about $35 so the price is higher than Hobbypartz. Hobbypartz is out of the 1.08. I found a place that lists the specs for the .91 and 1.08. There isn't much difference in stated HP. The .91 will fit the fuse opening better than the 1.08. I'll have to grind out about 5mm for the 1.08 to fit. I'm leaning towards the .91 since I now know the difference, I need to decide if I want the remote needle or not. Not sure if there is any running/performance difference between the needle locations. I just have to figure if I want the .91A or the .91AII since the only difference is the needle valve location. Maybe I should go with the remote needle due to missing part of a finger from a prop. LOL
As cheap as some engines are now days, if it's something other than bearings, they become throw away items. If parts are needed, it looks like Just Engines has parts but they are in England.
Here's a link to a review for the .91.
http://www.justengines.unseen.org/ac...Dorling__.html
Thanks all. I didn't know the difference was the needle valve assembly.
ORIGINAL: NM2K
As Dar suggests, I bought the ASP 1.08 (2) when they were on sale at Hobby King. Mine were $70 each.
Ed Cregger
ORIGINAL: DarZeelon
It appears to be the same muffler for all.
That's not the difference.
HobbyKing offers the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8987]ASP 1.08[/link] for $78.90 and the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8988]ASP .61[/link] for $61.60...
Those offers for the ASP .91 at $103.85, or at $130.77, do seem quite expensive.
ORIGINAL: Live Wire
Look at the muffler.
Look at the muffler.
That's not the difference.
HobbyKing offers the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8987]ASP 1.08[/link] for $78.90 and the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8988]ASP .61[/link] for $61.60...
Those offers for the ASP .91 at $103.85, or at $130.77, do seem quite expensive.
As Dar suggests, I bought the ASP 1.08 (2) when they were on sale at Hobby King. Mine were $70 each.
Ed Cregger
I looked at the 1.08 from HK and thought about it. The shipping comes out to about $35 so the price is higher than Hobbypartz. Hobbypartz is out of the 1.08. I found a place that lists the specs for the .91 and 1.08. There isn't much difference in stated HP. The .91 will fit the fuse opening better than the 1.08. I'll have to grind out about 5mm for the 1.08 to fit. I'm leaning towards the .91 since I now know the difference, I need to decide if I want the remote needle or not. Not sure if there is any running/performance difference between the needle locations. I just have to figure if I want the .91A or the .91AII since the only difference is the needle valve location. Maybe I should go with the remote needle due to missing part of a finger from a prop. LOL
As cheap as some engines are now days, if it's something other than bearings, they become throw away items. If parts are needed, it looks like Just Engines has parts but they are in England.
Here's a link to a review for the .91.
http://www.justengines.unseen.org/ac...Dorling__.html
Thanks all. I didn't know the difference was the needle valve assembly.
Without taking true running engine power measurements and, instead, just reasoning things out, which occasionally works, the larger 1.08 (physically larger, if you are right) actually offers a few theoretical advantages over the more modern .91 engine. The modern .91 is most likely a punched out .61, meaning that the gas ducts in the engine's crankcase would have to be smaller than those of the .61, because of a larger cylinder bore. This would tend to force the designer to focus more on torque production at lower rpm since the gigantic air passageways that are necessary to create a revving engine just aren't there. Remember, I said that this type of brainstorming works out occasionally and not all of the time. Also, an engine with more mass tends to last longer due to less flexing being permitted by the extra metal. Yes, the location of the extra metal is important too, but it just so happens that where the extra metal is removed in such engines is exactly at the wrong places. Remember, we're brainstorming here.
I do have a modern Magnum .91 in addition to the two ASP 1.08 engines. Running/flying them on my Global 90 size Delta wing fighter ARF should demonstrate any difference in power, if it truly exists.
Ed Cregger
04-10-2011 | 09:57 PM
#12
Senior Member
RE: anybody know the difference?
Shipping is an issue, when a customer from North America orders from Hong Konk...
But it's not very much of an issue. Look at [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_postagetable.asp]the registered shipping table[/link] (not everyone needs the engine NOW, and pay more).
Shipping of a parcel weighing 1.5 kg; which is enough for the 1.08, or the .91FS, or even the 1.80FS, is just $23.59.
The ASP 1.08 shipped comes to $103, so you're basically getting a 1.08, for the same cost of a .91.
It looks like a difference to me.
The 1.80FS will be $20 less, shipped from HK...
But it's not very much of an issue. Look at [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_postagetable.asp]the registered shipping table[/link] (not everyone needs the engine NOW, and pay more).
Shipping of a parcel weighing 1.5 kg; which is enough for the 1.08, or the .91FS, or even the 1.80FS, is just $23.59.
The ASP 1.08 shipped comes to $103, so you're basically getting a 1.08, for the same cost of a .91.
It looks like a difference to me.
The 1.80FS will be $20 less, shipped from HK...
04-11-2011 | 04:36 AM
#13
My Feedback: (102)
RE: anybody know the difference?
Mad, based on my experiemce with remote needles they are worth having. Since fuel can neither be stretched nor compressed the mythical delay in responding to needle changes is simply non existent, the HS needle could be in the bottom of the tank and still do its job. In fact this Fitzpatrick .61 had the HS needle sheared off in a crash. I drilled out the HS needle hole and blocked it. I used an MDS remote needle which on other engines stands up to the tank pressure on a Cline regulator system. I have an ASP 1.08, it has what I think is a huge carb but the carb works really well.
04-11-2011 | 05:47 AM
#14
Senior Member
My Feedback: (57)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Greenwood,
IN
RE: anybody know the difference?
I agree with Hobbsy, the remote needle being a problem is a myth. Most of the problems with RNV setups are a leak somewhere or heat transfer issues.
04-11-2011 | 06:04 AM
#15
Senior Member
RE: anybody know the difference?
ORIGINAL: ThumbSkull
I agree with Hobbsy, the remote needle being a problem is a myth. Most of the problems with RNV setups are a leak somewhere or heat transfer issues.
I agree with Hobbsy, the remote needle being a problem is a myth. Most of the problems with RNV setups are a leak somewhere or heat transfer issues.
The 'column' of fuel in the fuel-line will accelerate virtually at the same rate, regardless of where its 'limiter' is located...
But the problems with leaks (and heating due to the line , or the needle-valve being in 'heat-transfer' contact with hot engine parts), is probably more common than would normally be expected.
04-11-2011 | 09:07 AM
#16
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Southeastern,
OH
RE: anybody know the difference?
ORIGINAL: NM2K
Without taking true running engine power measurements and, instead, just reasoning things out, which occasionally works, the larger 1.08 (physically larger, if you are right) actually offers a few theoretical advantages over the more modern .91 engine. The modern .91 is most likely a punched out .61, meaning that the gas ducts in the engine's crankcase would have to be smaller than those of the .61, because of a larger cylinder bore. This would tend to force the designer to focus more on torque production at lower rpm since the gigantic air passageways that are necessary to create a revving engine just aren't there. Remember, I said that this type of brainstorming works out occasionally and not all of the time. Also, an engine with more mass tends to last longer due to less flexing being permitted by the extra metal. Yes, the location of the extra metal is important too, but it just so happens that where the extra metal is removed in such engines is exactly at the wrong places. Remember, we're brainstorming here.
I do have a modern Magnum .91 in addition to the two ASP 1.08 engines. Running/flying them on my Global 90 size Delta wing fighter ARF should demonstrate any difference in power, if it truly exists.
Ed Cregger
ORIGINAL: madman75
I looked at the 1.08 from HK and thought about it. The shipping comes out to about $35 so the price is higher than Hobbypartz. Hobbypartz is out of the 1.08. I found a place that lists the specs for the .91 and 1.08. There isn't much difference in stated HP. The .91 will fit the fuse opening better than the 1.08. I'll have to grind out about 5mm for the 1.08 to fit. I'm leaning towards the .91 since I now know the difference, I need to decide if I want the remote needle or not. Not sure if there is any running/performance difference between the needle locations. I just have to figure if I want the .91A or the .91AII since the only difference is the needle valve location. Maybe I should go with the remote needle due to missing part of a finger from a prop. LOL
As cheap as some engines are now days, if it's something other than bearings, they become throw away items. If parts are needed, it looks like Just Engines has parts but they are in England.
Here's a link to a review for the .91.
http://www.justengines.unseen.org/ac...Dorling__.html
Thanks all. I didn't know the difference was the needle valve assembly.
ORIGINAL: NM2K
As Dar suggests, I bought the ASP 1.08 (2) when they were on sale at Hobby King. Mine were $70 each.
Ed Cregger
ORIGINAL: DarZeelon
It appears to be the same muffler for all.
That's not the difference.
HobbyKing offers the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8987]ASP 1.08[/link] for $78.90 and the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8988]ASP .61[/link] for $61.60...
Those offers for the ASP .91 at $103.85, or at $130.77, do seem quite expensive.
ORIGINAL: Live Wire
Look at the muffler.
Look at the muffler.
That's not the difference.
HobbyKing offers the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8987]ASP 1.08[/link] for $78.90 and the [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8988]ASP .61[/link] for $61.60...
Those offers for the ASP .91 at $103.85, or at $130.77, do seem quite expensive.
As Dar suggests, I bought the ASP 1.08 (2) when they were on sale at Hobby King. Mine were $70 each.
Ed Cregger
I looked at the 1.08 from HK and thought about it. The shipping comes out to about $35 so the price is higher than Hobbypartz. Hobbypartz is out of the 1.08. I found a place that lists the specs for the .91 and 1.08. There isn't much difference in stated HP. The .91 will fit the fuse opening better than the 1.08. I'll have to grind out about 5mm for the 1.08 to fit. I'm leaning towards the .91 since I now know the difference, I need to decide if I want the remote needle or not. Not sure if there is any running/performance difference between the needle locations. I just have to figure if I want the .91A or the .91AII since the only difference is the needle valve location. Maybe I should go with the remote needle due to missing part of a finger from a prop. LOL
As cheap as some engines are now days, if it's something other than bearings, they become throw away items. If parts are needed, it looks like Just Engines has parts but they are in England.
Here's a link to a review for the .91.
http://www.justengines.unseen.org/ac...Dorling__.html
Thanks all. I didn't know the difference was the needle valve assembly.
Without taking true running engine power measurements and, instead, just reasoning things out, which occasionally works, the larger 1.08 (physically larger, if you are right) actually offers a few theoretical advantages over the more modern .91 engine. The modern .91 is most likely a punched out .61, meaning that the gas ducts in the engine's crankcase would have to be smaller than those of the .61, because of a larger cylinder bore. This would tend to force the designer to focus more on torque production at lower rpm since the gigantic air passageways that are necessary to create a revving engine just aren't there. Remember, I said that this type of brainstorming works out occasionally and not all of the time. Also, an engine with more mass tends to last longer due to less flexing being permitted by the extra metal. Yes, the location of the extra metal is important too, but it just so happens that where the extra metal is removed in such engines is exactly at the wrong places. Remember, we're brainstorming here.
I do have a modern Magnum .91 in addition to the two ASP 1.08 engines. Running/flying them on my Global 90 size Delta wing fighter ARF should demonstrate any difference in power, if it truly exists.
Ed Cregger
You seem to be somewhat of an expert on these matters. Which is the way to go? The .91 or the 1.08? It seems the Magnum is pretty much the same as the ASP. Am I right on this? Why is the .91 rated to 17,000 rpms and the review stated that 13,800 rpms was achevied? I have seen conflicting info. on the rpm numbers for the 1.08. I have seen up to 10,000 at one place and up to 17,000 another. What's your take on this and what have you seen from the 1.08's you have? I have seen info. where OS did the same thing with their .91 engines. Basically "punching out" a .61. It seemed to work for OS for a while. I'm just trying to find out the best route to go. So, whats your take on the Magnum .91 as compared to the ASP 1.08 considering the 1.08 is 5mm wider and 100 grams heavier?
Oh, I did some more checking on the shipping. There is a cheaper shipping available for $21 that is for 6 to 21 days delivery. That would put the HK 1.08 at $99.
04-11-2011 | 09:25 AM
#17
My Feedback: (2)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,379
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Weatherford,
TX
RE: anybody know the difference?
I just checked Hobby People and the Maggie 91 two cycle is not available, that is no longer listed. Might be some floating around in hobby stores or on the Bay but me thinks it is a goner like the 108 is a goner from the Magnun line.
So if you want one get the lower cost ASP. .91 or the 108. I would think the 108 would be a stronger engine due to the increase in cubes but you never know which is race horse and which is the nag.
Chip
So if you want one get the lower cost ASP. .91 or the 108. I would think the 108 would be a stronger engine due to the increase in cubes but you never know which is race horse and which is the nag.
Chip
04-11-2011 | 10:18 AM
#19
Senior Member
RE: anybody know the difference?
ORIGINAL: madman75
Ed,
You seem to be somewhat of an expert on these matters. Which is the way to go? The .91 or the 1.08? It seems the Magnum is pretty much the same as the ASP. Am I right on this? Why is the .91 rated to 17,000 rpms and the review stated that 13,800 rpms was achevied? I have seen conflicting info. on the rpm numbers for the 1.08. I have seen up to 10,000 at one place and up to 17,000 another. What's your take on this and what have you seen from the 1.08's you have? I have seen info. where OS did the same thing with their .91 engines. Basically ''punching out'' a .61. It seemed to work for OS for a while. I'm just trying to find out the best route to go. So, whats your take on the Magnum .91 as compared to the ASP 1.08 considering the 1.08 is 5mm wider and 100 grams heavier?
Oh, I did some more checking on the shipping. There is a cheaper shipping available for $21 that is for 6 to 21 days delivery. That would put the HK 1.08 at $99.
Ed,
You seem to be somewhat of an expert on these matters. Which is the way to go? The .91 or the 1.08? It seems the Magnum is pretty much the same as the ASP. Am I right on this? Why is the .91 rated to 17,000 rpms and the review stated that 13,800 rpms was achevied? I have seen conflicting info. on the rpm numbers for the 1.08. I have seen up to 10,000 at one place and up to 17,000 another. What's your take on this and what have you seen from the 1.08's you have? I have seen info. where OS did the same thing with their .91 engines. Basically ''punching out'' a .61. It seemed to work for OS for a while. I'm just trying to find out the best route to go. So, whats your take on the Magnum .91 as compared to the ASP 1.08 considering the 1.08 is 5mm wider and 100 grams heavier?
Oh, I did some more checking on the shipping. There is a cheaper shipping available for $21 that is for 6 to 21 days delivery. That would put the HK 1.08 at $99.
The manufacturers' HP rating and RPM are , for all practical purposes, lies.
It is possible that such an engine, on the highest possible nitro (and shimmed to tolerate it); on a tooth-pick prop and with an ideal tuned-pipe system, could achieve the rated figures...
But in its unmodified form, with usable, affordable fuel and with its standard muffler; it cannot even be expected to come close to them.
Please read the [link=http://www.modelairplanenews.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=The+Magazine&type=PubPagi&mod=P ublications%3A%3AArticle+Title&mid=13B2F0D0AFA0447 6A2ACC02ED28A405F&navid=&tier=4&id=5687A613FD1B465 6848EF02416CE7FEF&PageId=4AF907D8C43F4CD18CB07D708 BF47082]additional info[/link] from David Gierke .60 engine shootout, MAN May 2003 issue.
Compare the actual HP numbers, to what the manufacturers say...
Serious manufacturers who appreciate the intelligence of their customers, give you a go/no-go number, RPM on a certain prop and with a certain fuel.
- - - - - - - - -
A punched-out .91 engine (in a .61 size-frame) generally has narrow bypasses and is more inclined toward low-RPM power - that's the ASP .91...
A 'real' .91 engine, is larger and the ASP (and OS) 1.08 has larger everything and will run at higher RPM, making more power.
04-11-2011 | 02:31 PM
#21
RE: anybody know the difference?
Actually I remember some pylon racers running higher nitromethane percentages. But above 50% you have to add in some kind of a additive to allow the nitromethane to mix with the methanol and oil otherwise it settles out and doesn't mix well. The maximum is about 65% nitromethane in the glow fuel as you still need some methanol to allow the glow plug to work. of course the engines do not last very long from the extreme combustiveness of the fuel though. But in all out racing that is part of the game.
I checked up on what Dar Zeelon stated and yes at present it is cheaper to buy a ASP 1.08 fromHobby City and have it shipped in via the cheapest method than it is to buy the same engine from Hobby Parts with their free shipping at the moment. But it could change though. it is interesting how that came about. A year ago it was the other way around.
Now this is for shipping to the USA though. You also need patience as it can take from three to eight weeks depending on the mood of the customs agencies at the time.
I checked up on what Dar Zeelon stated and yes at present it is cheaper to buy a ASP 1.08 fromHobby City and have it shipped in via the cheapest method than it is to buy the same engine from Hobby Parts with their free shipping at the moment. But it could change though. it is interesting how that came about. A year ago it was the other way around.
Now this is for shipping to the USA though. You also need patience as it can take from three to eight weeks depending on the mood of the customs agencies at the time.
04-11-2011 | 09:47 PM
#22
Senior Member
RE: anybody know the difference?
ORIGINAL: blw
Dar, you don't always have to shim engines to use higher nitro. The most I've seen run is 50%.
Dar, you don't always have to shim engines to use higher nitro. The most I've seen run is 50%.
Not to be argumentative in this respect; I believe that even with the maximum allowed nitro percentage (say, 20% for a [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFMD5&P=ML]OS.46AX[/link]), manufacturers' rated output @ RPM cannot be duplicated; even if the user installs a tuned exhaust...
The above engine, for instance, has a claimed output of 1.65 PS (Pferden Stark - German HP) @ 16,000 RPM.
With the Power-Box 'debaffled' and on 15% nitro fuel, it spins an APC 10x6 @ 14,300 RPM, which equates to 1.159 HP.
In the same configuration, it spun an APC 8.75x8.25NN pylon prop, @ 16,100 RPM... So, we thought we could see the manufacturer's rated output...
But no! It equates to only 0.931 HP, even though we did our best to allow the engine to reach the manufacturer's rated RPM.
A properly fitted tuned-pipe *may* allow the engine to breathe better at this RPM. But it appears to me shimming the head and using more than the maximum allowed nitro percentage, would be the only way; because the 'behavior' of this engine suggests it is 'maxed-out' breathing and just can't pass enough air to make that power.
Such behavior suggests a tuned-pipe will allow getting nice numbers at lower RPM, as this [link=http://supertigre.com/engines/supg0235-man.html]ST .91 test[/link] suggests.
But seeing the rated numbers seems improbable...
More potent fuel (with the same amount of air) may allow this, though.
04-12-2011 | 06:56 AM
#23
RE: anybody know the difference?
ORIGINAL: DarZeelon
Shipping is an issue, when a customer from North America orders from Hong Konk...
But it's not very much of an issue.
Shipping is an issue, when a customer from North America orders from Hong Konk...
But it's not very much of an issue.
<br type="_moz" />
04-12-2011 | 08:20 AM
#24
My Feedback: (3)
RE: anybody know the difference?
ORIGINAL: DarZeelon
[color=#000066]
Barry,
Not to be argumentative in this respect; I believe that even with the maximum allowed nitro percentage (say, 20% for a [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFMD5&P=ML]OS.46AX[/link]), manufacturers' rated output @ RPM cannot be duplicated; even if the user installs a tuned HP.
[color=#000066]
ORIGINAL: blw
Dar, you don't always have to shim engines to use higher nitro. The most I've seen run is 50%.
Dar, you don't always have to shim engines to use higher nitro. The most I've seen run is 50%.
Not to be argumentative in this respect; I believe that even with the maximum allowed nitro percentage (say, 20% for a [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFMD5&P=ML]OS.46AX[/link]), manufacturers' rated output @ RPM cannot be duplicated; even if the user installs a tuned HP.
