Community
Search
Notices
Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

Old newbie

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-28-2011 | 02:17 PM
  #1  
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Albany, GA
Default Old newbie

I'm coming back from about 20 plus years away from building and flying RC aircraft. During the hiatus I was able to hang on to one of my planes powered by an OS 40. The prop still turns with a little "gummy" feeling but there's still compression. I've pulled the head screws and was able to remove the head/cylendar sleeve and it all looks pretty good other than the carbon deposits on the top of the piston. The throttle is stuck so I think I need to soak it in something to get that free enough to disassemble. What's the best cours of action to get this enging back on line?
Old 09-28-2011 | 02:24 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Castaic, CA
Default RE: Old newbie

rinse the whole thing in lacquer thinner. Shake the lacquer thinner out and go fly.

Denis
Old 09-28-2011 | 03:16 PM
  #3  
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 10,532
Received 105 Likes on 93 Posts
From: Cottage Grove, MN
Default RE: Old newbie


ORIGINAL: highonambroid

I'm coming back from about 20 plus years away from building and flying RC aircraft. During the hiatus I was able to hang on to one of my planes powered by an OS 40. The prop still turns with a little ''gummy'' feeling but there's still compression. I've pulled the head screws and was able to remove the head/cylendar sleeve and it all looks pretty good other than the carbon deposits on the top of the piston. The throttle is stuck so I think I need to soak it in something to get that free enough to disassemble. What's the best cours of action to get this enging back on line?
Put the whole thing in a ziplock bag (I use freezer bags for soaking parts) and put enough model engine fuel in it to cover the parts. Leave it set for several hours to overnight and it should be loose enough to get everything moving and ready to run. If the bearings feel gritty, you might consider changing them before running it.
Old 09-28-2011 | 03:30 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Perth, AUSTRALIA
Default RE: Old newbie

Yeah, old fuel works well for dissolving the goo, but if it's been sat for long enough, I'd say the bearings would have corroded, especially if it was just stored without any preventative measures. I usually knock the head and blackplate off so the fuel can get in everywhere, and when you want, it can get out again easily. Once it's all moving freely again, have a look at the rear bearing (easy to see) if it looks nice and feels nice, go play. If it looks rusty and feels like it's got sand in it, replace both.

One final thing, before you run it up (and i've seen/heard too many people NOT do this) flush your carb out to remove any gums, bits of fluff or debris. It should be SPOTLESS before you even think about firing that 40 up.
Old 09-28-2011 | 05:16 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
From: SydneyNew South wales, AUSTRALIA
Default RE: Old newbie


ORIGINAL: highonambroid

I'm coming back from about 20 plus years away from building and flying RC aircraft. During the hiatus I was able to hang on to one of my planes powered by an OS 40. The prop still turns with a little "gummy" feeling but there's still compression. I've pulled the head screws and was able to remove the head/cylendar sleeve and it all looks pretty good other than the carbon deposits on the top of the piston. The throttle is stuck so I think I need to soak it in something to get that free enough to disassemble. What's the best cours of action to get this enging back on line?
Hi mate,
"gummy" feeling? As in castor oil gum? I have always used kerosene as a solvent for this one.

And is the engine a FP 40? If it is then it is a plain bearing engine and little heat along with the kero flush should see it back in action.
(It was probably not the best idea to disturb the liner's position as it will never go back in exactly where it came from, but anyway...)

Good luck.

Old 09-28-2011 | 05:58 PM
  #6  
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Albany, GA
Default RE: Old newbie

Thanks all, I have a good idea how to start now.

Recycled flyer, you said ". . . It was probably not the best idea to disturb the liner's position . . ."

The liner came off with the head. I'm not sure but it appears as if it's an integrated head/sleve. Anyway, the head is keyed and I doubt I will be able to reassemble it misaligned by much more than a half mm. Nonetheless, the deed is done and I'll have to live with it or be in the market for a replacement.
Old 09-29-2011 | 04:31 AM
  #7  
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,816
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
From: Upplands Vasby, SWEDEN
Default RE: Old newbie

Hi!
Belive me ...nothing will remove/disolve old gummy castor oil inside an engine! And I mean totally remove if its orange or yellow! The best way to free an engine is to heat it up and oil it and go fly! But ...remember that after 20 years hiatus the ball bearings (if the enginehave those( need replacement due to all the old congelled castor oil that is stuck inside the ball race.

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.