CiprianGugu

My Feedback: (17)

Panda,

Isee you are from Colombia. If ypu can't get an engine directly from NV, let me know and I can see if Ican get one for you and send it to you.

misterpanda

Thanks guys for that quick and helpful reply. I think I'll try ordering directly from the website and have it shipped to my son in Miami. Do you know where spare glow plugs can be purchased? I suppose only from NV for now; right?

CiprianGugu

My Feedback: (17)

It is an OS P3 Turboplug, so you can buy it anywhere.

misterpanda

Ciprian:

Thanks very much for your kind offer to help. Will keep it in mind

CiprianGugu

My Feedback: (17)

Anytime.IfIcanhelp,Iwill.

aspeed

Just wondering if the castor might mix better with a hand blender like a Braun, or if it would blow up? It seems like a long time to wait for a week to fly. I know at school in chemistry class we mixed oil with water by adding detergent. I know detergent wouldn't be the best thing to put in the fuel, but maybe another chemical may aid in the mixing, like maybe methanol or ? I will also mention that I did fail chemistry in high school. Oh and what about the chain saw type of oil mix, I suppose that would be the first thing the Norvel people tried. It is much more economical. It is nice to see you guys offering to help each other out with the purchases.

downunder

I think what you're referring to is something called a cosolvent which is what ether does in diesel fuel making castor dissolve into the kerosene. Maybe acetone might do the trick?

hllywdb

The chain saw oils and others have co-solvents in them. They have all been tried because of the lower price and easier mixing, but they have all failed. This is not a ringed motor spinning 9k. Duke was correct, there is no substitute for good old castor if you want stuff to last. The good news is that once mixed, it will last you a looooong time at 4oz per flight. At this point I don't even consider mixing. When I do, I mix up a quart, let it sit, then just top off what I have going.

aspeed

Good old Duke, 'keep it clean and not too lean'

hllywdb

aspeed,
Yep, not too lean is a must on this motor as well, it leans out more than you expect once it gets on step in the air.

I have mentioned a few things casually here in this thread that I like about this motor, but I tend to lean towards the conservative side and understate things as I have had enough posts about magic dust, unicorn farts, and conspiracy theories, and I have also taken a lot for granted and gotten spoiled by the motor a bit. But I got a good reality check this morning after returning from the small field across the street and de-sliming my Cox medallion powered plane. Once broken in and flying, you guys are going to like the easy clean up. It's a LOT less than nitro and wipes off easy. It does tend to be dark in color (I notice it because the plane has a lot of white covering) but don't get excited, it's just carbon, not your piston liner. We tend to worry when our nitro engines start spewing black, and with good reason, but that is not the case here. I have over 100 flights on this with no wear or loss of power, so the mix works well. But I really appreciated the easy clean up.

AJsToyz

Well,

I know it can't run with gasoline so I must be dreaming. About 2:15 I had a dream I put around 5 oz of fuel in the tank then fired that puppy up. Ran it for about 20 minutes then started to do the rpm checks. I have not woke up yet so its still running with alot? Of gas left in the tank. I'll let you know when I wake up! LOL

This is just strange, but it works. Who am I to argue??

Andy

hllywdb

Sounds good Andy!
I'd run a couple more tanks on the ground, adjust the idle, and then go fly it in the plane

AJsToyz

I was wrong, only ran for close to 40 minutes, may be she was still rich. Who am I kidding, that was sweet! Lol

Its turning poopy here this week so bench runs a few more time will not hurt my feelings. I need to measure my Stik to see what brand tank will slide in. I have a round 6 oz tank that should fit right in.

Andy

CiprianGugu

My Feedback: (17)

Andy, that is good news.

I wonder if the so called 'experts' in this thread  that said it cannot work, will eventually come ou t and apologize for the nasty things they said. Bu t I won't hold my breath.

AJsToyz

Its a great thing! If I doubted Bill or Norvell I would have never purchased one. Thanks Bill for the information and testing, thank you NV for a good running little engine.

I think its funny, since it was run for a year or so in testing its like the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow or a Unicorn. If it were released early and failed then the company would be complained about for using the customer as a test bed. Some people you will never please. Its a hobby, so I'm not in any hurry.

So, for those of us that do not like the smell of gas I will be running racing fuel this week if the weather is half way decent, and I get some unleaded race fuel.

Andy

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

I was alerted to this thread by my friend, Stef, (Japanman) who lives in, well, Japan. Anyway, when NV surfaced there was much skepticism about their credibility and intent. Were they just selling off engines built from left over parts and would disappear once the stock was gone or were they a serious attempt at reviving one of the most unique engines in the history of our hobby.

Norvels are unique in one important way. Pistons and cylinders must be built with a hard/soft combination. Either piston or liner must be harder or softer than the other. This prevents galling. Very early engines used cast iron running against hardened steel. Then came ABC and AAN engines using chrome against high silicon aluminum. Traditionally, the cylinder was chromed and the piston was HS aluminum.

SOME engines used nickel plating instead of chrome on the cylinder/liner.

Norvel went one HUGE step further in the hard soft combination. They nickel plated the piston but that was actually the soft component. What could be harder you may ask. What is extremely hard, and in fact only diamonds are harder, is anodized aluminum. Norvel cylinders are anodized aluminum. Anodized aluminum is actually a form of aluminum oxide and some sandpapers are made of the stuff. That's pretty darn hard.

But there's an extra bonus besides the extreme durability. Anodized aluminum has a porous, honeycombed structure. As such, oil is trapped in the pores and this provides a superior compression seal compared to any other system. This better compression seal delivers more power and also better mileage with less leakage of fuel past the piston.

Since before and following, when the videos were taken, I've been pretty much out of commission with serious family health problems. I did manage to get this work done to investigate what made the Enya glow/gasser tick. I used the Picco car engine converted to aircraft use as this would mimic the Enya as much as possible. Bushed rod both ends and ABC and ball bearings.

The question was, is the special Enya plug necessary? Is the special Enya oil necessary?

It seems that Norvel has been inspired by the Enya and have done the R&D to make it all work in a rather spectacular fashion. This shows that the people behind NV are straight shooters and are here to stay. For that, I approve in a big way. As you can see from my channel, I'm a BIG fan of Norvel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fNrz...Kao3A&index=28

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aWnU...Kao3A&index=27

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiF0-...Kao3A&index=26

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiF0-...emb0Ckt0lKao3A

As you can also see, I'm also a big fan of diesel combustion, the Norvels make excellent, diesel engines. Adding to Norvel's inherent, good mileage as a glow, (and now gas) engine, diesels run longer on less fuel as a default and the .074 will stay up all day on just 2 ounces of fuel. As illustrated here,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuS3r...Kao3A&index=14

I do fly larger aircraft and when the dust settles on the homefront, I`ll be converting one of my Norvel .40s to play with, on gas.

THANK YOU HollywoodBill for this post. It`s been a long, hard, winter but the snow IS melting a bit. I may be able to dig out the test bench and freeze a few fingers soon. Thanks for the inspiration.

BTW, that white stuff I`m flying off of is called SNOW.

hllywdb

Hi Andy,
Great to hear from you! I'm not sure if they will be offering conversion parts, I know beyond the head it's a different carb than the nitro and have realy done their homework on this one. It realy throttles superbly, the lag (gasoline) is just barely perceptable on the stand and not noticable in flight. I can't make it flame out in flight, and belive me I've tried I know they do use EG and A/F ratio sampling and have definately put it to good use.

You are right on the company, at this point they have the chief engineer/designer steering the company, which I think gives them the freedom to pursue new designs like this.

Bill

flyingagin

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Bill,

I may get a factory unit eventually but I DO like to tinker. Especially with throttling. As I can't stray too far from home these days, it'll be fun tinkering with a stock Norvel. Before they stopped production, I acquired many samples of all the sizes from Sig,,, these were warranty returns, some were totally abused, some just needed a little TLC. I was amazed at how much abuse these engines got and yet, Sig/Norvel honoured the warranty. That says a lot for both companies. I have parts coming out of the yin yang,,, no fear of frying, burning or breaking something.

My favourite, of course, is the .074, so maybe I'll start with that one and work my way up.

Thanks again.

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

A few tips to those not familiar with Norvel, or NV technology. I've been reading through the threads and while I would not necessarily contradict the very smart people who make these engines, I've found that, for me, heating the cylinder can make things go oh, so much more smoothly, when first firing up your Norvel. Flipping 100 times is a very good idea but some Norvels came out a bit tighter than others. No way to know and heating the cylinder as hot as you can get it, is the way to go, IMO. Shoot, look at the snow on the ground under my test bench. HEAT, good idea. You lucky guys in Florida, Texas, California and Australia,,,, never mind.

There IS one situation where you will still need to be cautious. In this case, no matter where you live, heat may save you a lot of grief. Remember, this is a UNIQUE engine, like no other.

As mentioned, the cylinder is anodized and that's a form of aluminum oxide which has pores that, once filled with oil, does lots of magic. HOWEVER, if you overprime, you risk washing enough of that oil out to where you COULD get a lock up. It CAN and does happen on the smaller engines, particularly when not fully run in. In that case, strong arming the prop could give you a bent rod. IF you DO get a lock up, HEAT will free up your engine, lickety-split.

hllywdb

All great tips Andy, the gas engines especially do not like to be over-primed. If you do get one stuck, DO NOT force it. Usually the heat from your heat gun is ample to loosen it up and much preferable to an open flame. Remember this is a GASOLINE engine and the fumes from the tank are extremely flamable. If it's on the stand, remove the tank and lines to a safe location. (Yes, I was burned in a gasoline explosion over 30 years ago but I still remember the experience quite vividly, as well as the months of recovery)

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

Bill,

Thanks for clarifying. Yes, a heat gun with the engine on the bench is what I'm referring to, until your engine is fully run in. Or at least well on its way. That reminds me that in the winter, some of us would use butane torches to warm up the cylinder for an easy start in the cold. Of course, these WERE glow engines and nothing unexpected happened. Gas, of course, is a whole different matter.

Diesel acts much like glow but even more so. No vapours from kerosene to speak of so not much danger there. But the neat thing with diesel is that all you need for cold starting is a special ALL ether prime with the usual, 20% oil. Works great down to well below zero. After all, that's what the big rigs use.

Japanman

Hey Andy,
I didn't know you got the picco going on gas!
Did you try the OSA3 in your testing?

This, Hllywdbs testing and info about fuel, and as mentioned about the OS A3 plug opens up a whole world of possibilities for converting other engines, does it not?
I don't know about you guys, but glow fuel is kind of pricey...

I'm going to mix up some castor fuel today, and test it in a norvel 15

Any info on combustion chamber volumes/ compression ratios, guys?

Stefan

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Stef,

No, unfortunately, things got complicated on the home front that put a halt to pretty much everything. With this new NV engine on gas and Bill's hints and tips, we both have a good chance at sorting out what needs to be done. The key is that neither a special plug, nor a special oil is needed as with the Enya invention. Who would have thought such would be possible? The gassers have been going glow plug by spiking their gas with glow fuel but this here is a whole new paradigm.

The juices are flowing, need more sunny days to take the snow away. YES. [>:]

AJsToyz

Sorry I missed this post. You probably would not recognise it any more, I don't. I used to out there in the mid 80's through early 90's alot. Now when I get out that way I'm lost.

Andy