blw

My Feedback: (3)

A lot of people who have been around computers for some time would not take that as a positive comparison!

hsukaria

I would love to see this type of gas engine on a 4-stroke!!! Wow!!!

hsukaria

Yeah, I remember the old days with Windows, YIKES!!! We had some test vehicles that used computers with Windows 95. Now that's putting your life in danger!!!!

hllywdb

Sure, but you didn't have to push a paper clip into the radio to get you key to eject from the ignition

Phoenex

My Feedback: (1)

Iknow that pulling 2 to 3 times more glow fuel through an engine than gas slims up the airframe big time. We have the same situation with fuel costs, glow engines pull 2 to 3 times more fuel through the engine so even if gas and your homemade glow fuel were the same cost per gallon, gas is much more economical to use. Misinformation helps no one and reflects poorly on you.

the pope

I got my norvel for the cool factor . For those with more engines coming out their Kazoo then they know what to do with this is something different . I have enough engines in just about all the different sizes both 2 and 4 stroke that Im interested in so from now on I will probably just get the ones that hold a interest for me and this engine fits the bill perfectly and at a reasonable cost as well . Im just waiting like Husky for the 60 size version . Cheers the pope

hllywdb

Phoenex
I don't think it's intentional misinformation. There are a lot of things that just aren't apparent until you are actually using it. So when I notice that there is less slime and it's easier to clean up at the field, it occurs to me that gas is a natural de-slimer. By that I mean that I could take a rag soaked in gas and wipe down my glow planes and it would work great. So then it seems natural to figure that less of the gas/oil mix would stick to the plane and what did would be easier to clean up. Add that to the fact that you are burning 1/3 less and it all makes sese. But these things don't naturaly occur to us at the drawing board.

the pope

Hi hllywdb
just a quick question . In the manual in regards to the cold break in they refer to turning the engine over 100 times now I presume this is a quick flip of the prop and not a slow turning while holding of the prop . Got my fuel mixed today so wont be long now , mines going on the phonex scanner . Cheers the pope

hsukaria

I'm also saving my pennies to get the GX-40. I am thinking of selling the 2-stroke glow that is in the plane that would get the GX-40 to partially pay for the new engine. In that application, I would use the 12x4 prop with the GX-40. Incidentally, that plane is my oldest (and one of the best - Sig Rascal 40) and the covering on it has deteriorated due to all the slime from the glow engines I used. Maybe it is time to recover the plane and put a gasser while I'm at it. I think I will do that this next winter instead of building/assembling a new plane.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Hey, that's a slick feature when you need it. Sure beats tearing a computer and drive apart. Been there, done that.

I did have a key stuck in the ignition of a new car once. Was in the service and had to leave the car at the airfield that way for a week! Got back late at night. Had to hitchhike home for a spare key, bum a ride back to open the car to get it to the shop. Kinda like a Windows experience now that I think about it.

hllywdb

the pope
With the glow plug removed, add some thin oil to the cylinder. Flip it over normally, but DO NOT try to go slow through TDC. NV motors have a good "pinch" at the top when new and can stick at TDC. If this happens, (most likely it won't) just heat the cylinder up with your heat gun and flip it the rest of the way through.

Sport_Pilot

I was interested in the Fox and Mangnum 40 sized gas engines a couple of years ago, but decided the power was too weak and the ignition module was too big. The performance figures are good for and average .40 engine on gas, but not close enough to what I normally use for me to consider this. Though I am comparing to a .45 size because that is what I would use for a .40 sized plane.

Also I do not fly regularly so I don't use enough fuel for economy to be a factor. It is the equipment costs that matter to me not fuel.

Sport_Pilot

Typically those that refer to Windows as Win Doze!

Sport_Pilot

If you are using 30% nitro you are correct, but I use a lot of 5 and 10% nitro, and even FAI fuel is more powerful than gasoline. And only about 1.5 times as much fuel. And about the same amount of extra power. In most cases I'd rather have the power.

This is not misinformation, it is fact. I am comparing methanol to gas. You are the one misinforming by trying to add nitro to the mix!

toolmaker7341

I don't know what power you're looking for but 13,500 rpm on a 10-7 is damn good for a 40 sport engine in my book. If you don't own one how can you comment on its power output? Dont like it don't buy one,don't slam the power output if you know nothiing about what your talking about. Stick with your nitro engines. I personaly am impressed with this engine. Are you jellous that you can't afford to by this engine? Maybe we can start a collection here to help you afford a GX-40 of your very own. I'll start with $2.00

blw

My Feedback: (3)

The last remarks went too far. Enough angry comments that are too personal.

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

Agreed. It's just a hobby gents.

Sport_Pilot

The glow version is more powerful. But both are not up to the same power level of a good 46 that I would use instead. I am not slamming the engine. Just noting that glow fuel is more powerful and don't give a diddly about the extra cost of fuel.

Actually I am here on this thread because I am intreged by this engine. If I had money I would buy one to try it out, but I do not right now, and when I do this will be a low priority. Both this and the glow version look like very good and very powerful engines for the fuel they use.

earlwb

Now a longer prop stud is not really needed, as the engines used the standard prop stud for many years and no one considered it a problem. So it is not really a problem. But I made myself a longer 6mm propeller shaft stud for the NV GX 40 engine. You can either make one using a lathe or buy a threaded stud online from many sources and cut it down to length as needed. This is just a personal preference of mine for using a spinner and propeller on the engine.

earlwb

I also did a bit of machining to the muffler to get the muffler mounting screws to fit better with less risk of the screw heads breaking off.

Phoenex

My Feedback: (1)

Looking very good earlwb! I do wish NVshipped these engines with the longer prop shaft (highly desireable) and muffler with the proper surface angle for the bolts. I hope NVis paying attention to this thread and feedback from modelers. Anyone know what other mufflers with fit the engine?

earlwb

Actually no other brand mufflers fit the engines that I know of. They have about a 31.5mm screw spacing for the muffler screws.  The OS 25LA and 25FP mufflers come close though. But it isn't difficult to make a bridge adapter to fit most any muffler though. Depending on the muffler used the adapter can be a once piece or two piece type.

Sport_Pilot

Only if you have the tools!

earlwb

Well one can use a hacksaw, a drill and some drill bits and some hand files to make an adapter. If needed the special tools would be a tap for 6x32 screws if you need to thread some holes. But a drill press is handy of course and if you have it then you can use a milling machine to good effect too. One can get creative on finding some aluminum bar stock etc to use. You can usually find something that can make a 1 inch or so wide and about 3/8 inch thick adapter piece or pieces.

If the muffler screws do not interfere with each other, you can use a single piece of metal to adapt the muffler to the engine. But if the muffler screws interfere then you need a two piece adapter.
Here is one I made for a Rossi engine to use a Performance Specialties Ultrathrust tuned muffler on it. In this case each adapter half is bolted to the engine and muffler and then bolted to each other.





Now if you have a more thick piece of metal you can make a once piece offset adapter too. This works for some engines. The exhaust passage is angled to mate up with the engine and muffler. This is another Rossi engine adapter shown here as made by RossiEngines USA.


Here is another adapter I made for a Fox 45 to use a K&B muffler.

hsukaria

The Jett Engineering muffler adapters look similar to the Rossi adapter you show. It is a one-piece adapter that offsets the muffler up or down (I can't remember). Those type are a little fancier and would require special tools, I believe. The 2-piece you show can use aluminum strips that you can buy from a hardware store like Lowes or Home Depot. I fabricated a spacer for the NV muffler a couple of months ago using the aluminum bar stock and a drill. Let's just say that it did not come out looking as "purdy" as your adapters.[&o]

I also noticed that a nice feature to the 2-piece adapter idea is that you can set it up to bolt together from either side of the engine (muffler side or engine side).