1 Pitts Special 1

He asked a real question many don't really understand. I think it has been covered well enough, but I added a few extra thoughts about each brand an a real comparison of my experiences of each. The question really demands more explanation than clearing up the understanding between such small size in cubic inches, correct prop, overall weight, etc. Brands have certain quirks an crankiness. You need more knowledge than saying they both are good engines. Every scrap of knowledge you can garner about these type of motors will help him in his future decisions an ability learning to tune one. Odd as it sounds a clear understanding of glow engine setup an proper care is an art suffering a slow demise.

In my CL days it was a real learning experience, I thought as the original question asked, if I got the .36 it would be a better motor than my .35. It makes little to no difference, its in his ability as I learned the hard way, its in breakin, tuning, proper fuel, props, tank placement, weather conditions, etc,etc.... The question alone shows where he is in understanding. Nothing wrong he just needs more knowledge all the way around. I wish he lived near me, sometimes personal attention helps more than all the reading from books. Telling the difference from one four cycling to cross over to 2 cycle made no sense to me until some one pointed it out many years ago. Knowledge is not a bad thing its to little that causes problems.

GallopingGhostler

There are others things a neophyte does not understand, for example, mufflers.

Some mufflers just won't work. I just went through a learning curve with the aftermarket Tatone legacy mufflers. Some are good, some just won't work without modifications. Their Calumet muffler was a poor design to begin with, too small an expansion chamber, extremely small internal baffling. I wound up turning it into a tongue muffler for a McCoy .19 Red Head. It is heavy also, surprisingly heavier than their Peace Pipes.

Their larger Peace Pipes work well for the smaller engines (i.e., muffling a .19 with the .29-.40 version). The smaller Peace Pipe is better for the lower end (.09-.10 for the .09-.19 version). I plan to try another Calumet I have by doing a baffle-dectomy for an Enya .09-III TV. On an Enya .19-VI TV, even opened up, the Calumet caused that engine to run too hot for comfort. On the .29-.40 Peace Pipe, it ran fine. With this other Calumet, I might have another tongue muffler.

Some here have expressed that many have ruined engines by using mufflers that were unsuitable, frying the motor. [:'(]

1 Pitts Special 1

Nice pics, they will explain what your speaking of. Mufflers are a real problem. Many forget the motor is just an air pump. Any motor operates best when you have an efficent flow of air. Air can be forced in or out but lack of it causes a heat build up. My personal opinion is to use what was called in earlier days "semi-flow through." I still use it today by modifing my mufflers. Sound has become the guiding force at many airfields. The loise level is just a little Above a completely closed muffler. I still have my Semco mufflers of the past, i would not part with them until they wore out.

If you study one carefully by afdding a baffle or tube around the inside, such as a tube in a tube you get plenty of flow with the added benifit of the vacuum of low pressure pulling out the hot gases. You still get pressure for your tank an lower noise. Heat is the enemy an dealt with properly adds a long life to these little power houses.

I have drilled holes in the front of the mufflers to get a flow through the muffler. It helps some but you can go to far. There still needs to be the baffle as i call it for best performance. Then you have the tuned pipe method. It not only quiets things an creates a velocity effect because of gasses flowing an gives a better flow than stock mufflers. I think you can find an example on YouTube.

Alot more can be said on mufflers, but on 2 cycle motors i much rather have the flow through type, being smaller an plenty quiet, than the bigger closed mufflers you see today.

GallopingGhostler

I gather you are talking about the venturi muffler. My Enya .35-VI TV has a Kaven venturi muffler, except the venturi consists of slots where the nose cone meets the body. Muffler came with an aluminum disk accessory, to blank off the venturi if further quietness is required. (The muffler is a work of art, Kaven makes quality stuff.)

My 2 Fuji .099S-II ABC's have that style of muffler, except the front has not been drilled out yet. I imagine I could drill it out to see if it improves performance. If not or noise becomes objectionable, then tap the hole and put a screw in.

In the case of the Tatone Calumet muffler, the chambering is way too small to allow for adequate adiabatic expansion and gas cooling. It has 2 sets of baffles, one about a half inch from the exhaust port. The other at the junction of the little expansion body has 1/2 of a 1/4 in (6mm) dia. hole split in two. I've attached photos of it mounted to the Enya .19-VI TV and another where I ground nearly all the baffling away (copper cap is shown for the tongue conversion). The .19 ran hot still so I made it into a tongue muffler for my Testors McCoy .19 Red Head.

Speaking of having an adequate expansion chamber, I tried a spare YS muffler I had on hand. After modifying with a strap and JB Welding the existing mounting holes closed, it allowed my Testors .40 Series 21 Black Head to run full bore without much (if any, don't have a tach) power loss.