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OS FS 110a dismantling problems

Old 11-14-2014, 08:30 AM
  #26  
davidej
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The good people at Just Engines found me a 6mm gudgeon pin from another engine that fitted fine and some cap screws for the rocker cover. I also got the bearings from my local supplier and I put it all back together this afternoon.

It fired up easily, sounded fine and was doing nearly 10k RPM on a 15 x 6


A good result and all for about 20 dollars

Last edited by davidej; 11-14-2014 at 08:34 AM.
Old 11-14-2014, 10:33 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by davidej View Post
The good people at Just Engines found me a 6mm gudgeon pin from another engine that fitted fine and some cap screws for the rocker cover. I also got the bearings from my local supplier and I put it all back together this afternoon.

It fired up easily, sounded fine and was doing nearly 10k RPM on a 15 x 6


A good result and all for about 20 dollars
Don't ya just luv it when it works out like that you should go out and buy yourself a lottery ticket Good stuff. By the way what do they use in this engine to keep the wrist pin off the cylinder wall?

Dennis
Old 11-14-2014, 02:36 PM
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davidej
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Originally Posted by Propworn View Post
Don't ya just luv it when it works out like that you should go out and buy yourself a lottery ticket Good stuff. By the way what do they use in this engine to keep the wrist pin off the cylinder wall?

Dennis
There is a sort of wire circlip at the front end and a PTFE (I assume) pad at the rear
Old 11-14-2014, 04:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by davidej View Post
There is a sort of wire circlip at the front end and a PTFE (I assume) pad at the rear
Thanks I like to keep knowledge like this in the back of my mind no telling when I might run into this again. That means the wrist pin can only be removed to the back of the engine. I can see why they might have done it this way it gives you a positive stop to seat the wrist pin plug without worrying about knocking a plug off the other side during assembly.

Thanks again for the response;

Dennis
Old 11-15-2014, 02:10 AM
  #30  
davidej
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On this particular model the gudgeon (wrist) pin is tubular but with a web across in the middle. There is a small (2mm approx) hole at the front of the crankcase and I used a piece of piano wire against the web to push it through and out of the bigger hole at the back.

I have never seen a pin with a web like this and that is where the original one snapped - makes you think !
Old 11-15-2014, 08:27 AM
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On the side that the pin slides out what are they using to keep the pin from making contact with the cylinder wall when its running?

Dennis
Old 11-15-2014, 11:35 AM
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davidej
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a plastic pad -PTFE?

not very nice weather here but I managed four 15 mins flights with this engine in a 1/5 approx scale Bucker Jungmeister - faultless

Last edited by davidej; 11-15-2014 at 01:04 PM.
Old 11-15-2014, 03:25 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by davidej View Post
a plastic pad -PTFE?

not very nice weather here but I managed four 15 mins flights with this engine in a 1/5 approx scale Bucker Jungmeister - faultless
Thanks its not great weather here either indoor starts soon have to cut a bunch of kits for the guys their asking already. Flying outside 32 degrees F today.

Dennis
Old 11-16-2014, 10:05 AM
  #34  
speedracerntrixie
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Originally Posted by Propworn View Post
On the side that the pin slides out what are they using to keep the pin from making contact with the cylinder wall when its running?

Dennis

Nice, the Jungmeister is one of my all time favorites. I have been working on an old Scottish kit off and on for a few years now. The paperwork that came with the kit indicates it was made in 1974. What kit is yours? Can you post a picture of it.
Old 11-17-2014, 11:38 AM
  #35  
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I have two Jungmeisters both built from what used to be called Complete-a Pac semi kits. They sold packs of plan, cowl, wirework and precut formers and wingribs You had to do the rest. CAP has now gone out of business but I think the plans are still available here through Traplet

The red and white one is in the colours of a US acrobatic word champion -I can't remember his name. I built in about 1980. It is now a bit battered but still flying with a Surpass 91

The yellow one I bought about 80% complete for next to nothing at a bring and buy. I finished it in a Swiss Airforce scheme and use to fly it with an old OS90 2 cycle. This proved rather unreliable and I had a number of deadsticks -not all of which ended well.

So I bought the 105a for it, gave it a bit of a makeover and now it flies excellently. the extra power, while not strictly necessary, does give it an edge.
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Last edited by davidej; 11-17-2014 at 11:41 AM.
Old 11-17-2014, 12:02 PM
  #36  
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Darn, you guys. I was just getting ready to break out the popcorn and now your getting all nicey nicey on me. Good thing Bax came along and explained it all. Well the weather sucks here too so I guess I have to go back to building.
Old 11-17-2014, 12:12 PM
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Nice looking airplanes, I'm fairly certain that what I have is a CAP kit according to the ligature that came with the kit. A complex build by today's standards. All built up, laminated plywood strips for tail and wing tips, very heavy polyester/chop matt cowl. I'm getting rid of the flat bottom airfoil. This may lead me to incorporate plug in wings and access equipment through the canopy. I'm thinking about 20cc gasser for power. Rapture, no grudges here. We all have a common interest. I realize I spoke without the proper information, I can man up to that.
Old 11-17-2014, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by speedracerntrixie View Post
Nice looking airplanes, I'm fairly certain that what I have is a CAP kit according to the ligature that came with the kit. A complex build by today's standards. All built up, laminated plywood strips for tail and wing tips, very heavy polyester/chop matt cowl. I'm getting rid of the flat bottom airfoil. This may lead me to incorporate plug in wings and access equipment through the canopy. I'm thinking about 20cc gasser for power. Rapture, no grudges here. We all have a common interest. I realize I spoke without the proper information, I can man up to that.
Sounds right to me - finish in solartex ! End up as a good looking and flying model.

I am currently repairing one for a friend that broke its back - the plane not the friend
Old 11-17-2014, 01:01 PM
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Yes, I know exactly what you mean. The fus builds somewhat like a Guillows rubber powered model. I'm going to scratch build new wings using the Goldberg Ultimate bipe airfoil. What does yours weigh? I'm looking to get mine down to 8 lbs. I eventually will be pulling a new mold from the cowl so I can make one much lighter. Other then that everything else is stock outline but with lightening holes in all the bulkheads. So far a pretty light build.
Old 11-18-2014, 09:48 AM
  #40  
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Mine weighs just over 10 lbs with the OS and the heavy cowl.

I think you would do well to keep to 8 lbs with a gasser up front.

best of luck !

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