I need to know what size prop adapter nut do i need for a evolution 1.0 ?
#1
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I need to know what size prop adapter nut do i need for a evolution 1.0 ?
I need to know what size prop adapter nut do i need for a evolution 1.0 ?
any help would be helpful thank you
any help would be helpful thank you
#2
and while you wait for your answer, I have an additional question. How do you keep your muffler bolts from coming loose? I have a new Evolution 33gx and can not keep the muffler bolts from coming loose. Will Nord-Locks solve the problem?
#3
I'm just guessing the prop on the 1.0 is probably 5/16-24, but I'm just guessing there. As for muffler bolts coming loose - verify without a doubt the engine isn't running too hot. 95% of the time, loose muffler screws are due to overheating (lack of baffling around engine), the other 5% of the time is due to people using gaskets. Use some RTV silicone (thin film), snug the screws and snug them up one more time with the engine warm.
And what I mean by verifying the engine isn't overheating - use a temp sensor or at the very least an infrared thermometer. Don't go by feel or sound. Gasoline engines are less telling when they're lean than a glow/methanol engine is.
And what I mean by verifying the engine isn't overheating - use a temp sensor or at the very least an infrared thermometer. Don't go by feel or sound. Gasoline engines are less telling when they're lean than a glow/methanol engine is.
#5
I'm just guessing the prop on the 1.0 is probably 5/16-24, but I'm just guessing there. As for muffler bolts coming loose - verify without a doubt the engine isn't running too hot. 95% of the time, loose muffler screws are due to overheating (lack of baffling around engine), the other 5% of the time is due to people using gaskets. Use some RTV silicone (thin film), snug the screws and snug them up one more time with the engine warm.
And what I mean by verifying the engine isn't overheating - use a temp sensor or at the very least an infrared thermometer. Don't go by feel or sound. Gasoline engines are less telling when they're lean than a glow/methanol engine is.
And what I mean by verifying the engine isn't overheating - use a temp sensor or at the very least an infrared thermometer. Don't go by feel or sound. Gasoline engines are less telling when they're lean than a glow/methanol engine is.
#6
Every time someone that has a gas engine with muffler screws that come loose and has used loctite red and silicone with the problem still present, heat is the problem. 99% of the time anyway.
#7
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John, the muffler has a gasket with it, the best thing is to lose the gasket, gaskets invite mufflers to come loose by allowing a tiny bit of flex which leads to big flex and ruined muffler bolts, etc.
Sorry, Dennis beat me to it.
Sorry, Dennis beat me to it.
#8
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Evolutions don't really need the gaskets, so when I run out I just don't use them. But, the supplied ones work fine with all of the Evolutions I've been around. I've never heard of the mufflers flexing or coming loose. This may be an OS and Magnum characteristic, but I don't think I've heard of any problems with Evos.
The best way that i've found to hold those muffler bolts to stay put is to pour some alcohol in the threads of the engine and muffler (if the engine section is threaded....I forgot) and wipe it all clean. Swab in some epoxy mixed 50/50 and let it run into the threads of the muffler. I've then screwed in the long bolts with the epoxy wet and after it has dried and both ways always works. They stay put. They are easy to back out when you need to and then reassemble afterwards. I think what happens is the threads cut into the dried epoxy and cuts it all up into a million boogers and that holds the threads firmly. Anyway, it works and I use it for backplate screws too.
The best way that i've found to hold those muffler bolts to stay put is to pour some alcohol in the threads of the engine and muffler (if the engine section is threaded....I forgot) and wipe it all clean. Swab in some epoxy mixed 50/50 and let it run into the threads of the muffler. I've then screwed in the long bolts with the epoxy wet and after it has dried and both ways always works. They stay put. They are easy to back out when you need to and then reassemble afterwards. I think what happens is the threads cut into the dried epoxy and cuts it all up into a million boogers and that holds the threads firmly. Anyway, it works and I use it for backplate screws too.
Last edited by blw; 03-05-2016 at 11:46 AM.