I am putting a perry regulator pump on my asp 1.08 . most of the members in our club are saying that I will have nothing but trouble . Are there any good stories about this pump and advice about setting it up
tks ron

I only have second hand exp with this pump and all of it was bad. Why do you want to pump it in the first place.
later daveo

I built a muffler for my SkyBolt that does not have enough back pressure to fly the plane vertical with out running it very rich giving not enough performance for unlimited vertical like it should . Me being relativly lazzy I am trying to get an easer solution than redesigning the muffler . I thought that if a perry pump works the way I think It should, then I should beable get the performance I am looking for . The theory is the same on most snowmobiles, that have a fuel pump operated from crank case pressure . Now the question is will it work as well on a glow engine . Now this pump is an afterthought .So the location is not on the same side as the carberator , plus my quick fill is on the otherside as well . This makes for some interesting plumming . If the pump works then this should not matter at all as the pump could be in the back of the plane and it would not care .
I guess I am looking to see if anyone has had one of these pumps to help make the learning curve easer . I have already mounted the pump and have tested to see how hard it was to get fuel to the carburetor. With the carb wide oppen and choked with my thumb . With in 3 flips the fuel was at the carb and had wet my thumb . 2 more flips and it might have started , but can not start it in a small room with no windows . Must wait till spring to see if it works . Maybe I will put in a review on this pump when I find out hoiiw it does work . In the meantime any information is good information .
Sorry for the long winded answer.
Ron

Ok Ron , i was just wondering if there was another solution to your problem without the pump. Two come to mind. One is to decrease the size of your muffler outlet to get more back pressure. Two would be to pressure
your tank with crankcase pressure. The problem with crankcase pressure is the engines get a little harder to tune. which is the problem with the Perry pump. I do know someone who was successful with his Perry pump in a pusher configuraton using 2-stroke power. i will ask him for some input and post here. In the meantime think about the first idea as it would be the simplest. later daveo

Tks Daveo
I have considerd the smaller outlets on exhaust . In my head the perry pump should work in theory . If the pump does not work properly I will have no choice than to build a new muffler . If it does work then projects in the future would be easer as I want to continue building my own exhaust systems .
I have just finnished a replica of paul 1 , p51 . I have built an exhaust system that the exit is scale . The 6pips on each side are functional it looks way cool . I have tested on a test stand and it runs fine was not able to put it vertical though . So a pump will make this kind of project eader to do if you donot worry so much about the amount of back pressure . The fact is that I like the problem solving part of things . I hope you don't feel I am upset in any way .
The problem with crank case venting to tank is that you bleed pressure from the engine , making it less efficient. The perry is a closed system so no pressure sould be bled off . I am sure I will find out in the spring , some time will have to be spent on tuning the engine .
Ron

Ron, those scale exhaust headers are awsome. I sure never thought you were upset. I have a bad habit
of coming on a little strong, but I'm really just trying to help.I will ask my buddy about his perry pump this
weekend and get back to you. later daveo

Thanks daveo
Maybe I will try to get a pic of the exhaust to you if I can get the use of my buds digital .

Got a little info from my buddy this weekend. It's been three years since he messed with the tuning on his pump, but here is his 2cents. He first ran and tuned the engine bypasing the pump and taking notes on the RPM with a tach.He then plumbed in the pump. Then leaned out the carb 1/4 turn. Then started the engine and used the pump to increase fuel flow until his tach readings matched the non pumped readings. The few lines of advice here
is the result of many hours of trial and error. His is on a FA-18 pusher that required a leaf blower for cooling while all this was going on. He also said he ran it with and without the Perry carb and on two diff engines.On the ASP the Perry carb worked best, on the Super Tigre the factory carb worked best. His biggest problem was keeping the thing lean enough. The pump worked to well and tried to flood the engine. He cant remember exactly
but thinks one turn off bottem on the pump is all it took. hope this helps, later daveo

Having run perry pumps and getting frustrated I can tell you that unless you buy the carburator that perry recommends and supplies, you will have problems. They do not take the place of muffler pressure! As an example, I had a Nieranji .40 (japanese rarity) which I ran with a pump and the stock carb and it would run fine on the ground but midrange was awful in the air. After getting the perry carb recommended for the size engine concerned it ran as sweet as my Jett .46 and that's saying a lot! The pumps are designed to run with a needle that allows much less fuel in during midrange. The shape of the needle is what make the difference. If you go pump, go all the way and get the carb!

Good Luck
Max

daveo's friend is right tune your moter then richen it up just a hair and fine tune with pump regulator screw and it will hold just fine on any carb that is good quality.i run one on my nosen citabria with a supertigre 2500 and it works great