Norvel Engine/1 problem/1 solution
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
I have two Norvels an .045 and an .061. I could not get either to run. On the .061 I found that a NiCad cell will not light the glow plug so I used a power panel with a 12 volt source. By turning up the power, it now starts and runs quite well--I guess the Russian plug was designed to operate off 2 volts (a standard lead/acid cell).
The .045 is a different story, it is so tight at the top of the stroke it is impossable to hand crank and a starter simply spins the prop off. Any suggestion on how to fix this? Thanks
The .045 is a different story, it is so tight at the top of the stroke it is impossable to hand crank and a starter simply spins the prop off. Any suggestion on how to fix this? Thanks
#2
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From: Gleneagle, CO,
There is nothing to fix. A tight engine means it will generate more power and last longer.
I have never had a problem with using a standard 1.2V Nicad Glow driver but if 2 volts works for you that is good. Is your fuel fresh? Water contimination in fuel can cause hard starting. Also, not using a fast spinning driver when engine is new will make starts difficult if not impossible. I don't care for using a chicken stick to start my tiny Norvels.
Some Norvel Tips:
Fuel: 25-35% nitro should be used on the smaller engines. The smaller engines dissipate more heat per unit volume than larger engines. As such the higher nitro helps them maintain the proper operating temperature range. Too low nitro and not only will you lose power but also its ability to be tuner friendly because it is running too cool.
Engine: If new engine is too tight, don't fret. Use a heat gun or a small pen torch to heat the engine's head. Do not concentrate the heat source on one spot, heat entire area so heat is transferred to entire area. The heat expands the liner and loosens the engine up for starts. Once engine is running get it up to full throttle rpm ASAP and then adjust the high end needle mixture. It'll take several runs on engine for it to eventually loosen up on its own. Whatever you do, don't use an abrasive to hone the cylinder to loosen the engine. Also, don't crank engine with starter and glow head unplugged to loosen the engine up. It'll work but you are wearing away engine life. Be patient, it'll loosen up on its own.
Prop: Norvel's love to rev and not be bogged down w/ large props.
I have never had a problem with using a standard 1.2V Nicad Glow driver but if 2 volts works for you that is good. Is your fuel fresh? Water contimination in fuel can cause hard starting. Also, not using a fast spinning driver when engine is new will make starts difficult if not impossible. I don't care for using a chicken stick to start my tiny Norvels.
Some Norvel Tips:
Fuel: 25-35% nitro should be used on the smaller engines. The smaller engines dissipate more heat per unit volume than larger engines. As such the higher nitro helps them maintain the proper operating temperature range. Too low nitro and not only will you lose power but also its ability to be tuner friendly because it is running too cool.
Engine: If new engine is too tight, don't fret. Use a heat gun or a small pen torch to heat the engine's head. Do not concentrate the heat source on one spot, heat entire area so heat is transferred to entire area. The heat expands the liner and loosens the engine up for starts. Once engine is running get it up to full throttle rpm ASAP and then adjust the high end needle mixture. It'll take several runs on engine for it to eventually loosen up on its own. Whatever you do, don't use an abrasive to hone the cylinder to loosen the engine. Also, don't crank engine with starter and glow head unplugged to loosen the engine up. It'll work but you are wearing away engine life. Be patient, it'll loosen up on its own.
Prop: Norvel's love to rev and not be bogged down w/ large props.
#3

Rodney,
Current Norvel instructions suggest putting some lube such as WD40 in the cylinder and let it set for 24 hours before starting the engine.
When I got my first Norvel .049 and .061 they were having trouble with the glow plugs they were using. They had switched to a new type plug and included the new type in the box with my engines. Since you did not specify the age of your engines, I assume you may have the old plugs. All this was before they switched to the anodized aluminum cylinders.
I usually use parallel "D" cells as a booster for those engines and I do not have trouble. I think the problem occurs mostly when you use a NiCd booster.
Did you pull the plugs and see if the booster makes them glow?
George
Current Norvel instructions suggest putting some lube such as WD40 in the cylinder and let it set for 24 hours before starting the engine.
When I got my first Norvel .049 and .061 they were having trouble with the glow plugs they were using. They had switched to a new type plug and included the new type in the box with my engines. Since you did not specify the age of your engines, I assume you may have the old plugs. All this was before they switched to the anodized aluminum cylinders.
I usually use parallel "D" cells as a booster for those engines and I do not have trouble. I think the problem occurs mostly when you use a NiCd booster.
Did you pull the plugs and see if the booster makes them glow?
George



