Fellers,
Being new to four strokes, and my first choice being a YS 1.10, I'm wondering how long I can plan on the engine lasting if ran right IE: gallons of fuel through it ? I know there are many variables out there that would vary the life, but I'm interested in hearing from the YS flyers experiences such as how many gallons through it, what plane was the engine mounted on etc.. With that information, I could kinda guess where mind might fall as to its life expectancy.

Thanks for any advice,
Dennis

YS longevity? None better that I have found. I have a four year old 120NC with about 80-90 gallons through it and it is still running like new. Original bearings, the only new part is the valve cover gasket. I lapped the valves once. That was easy. The motor can probably go another 80 gallons.

Mark

May I add : if and only if the engine is run properly with good fuel and oil.

Good point. Bad fuel will ruin any motor quickly. I run Coolpower 30% Heli exclusively in my YS motors. I am sure any comparable brand, Wildcat, Powermaster and similar would be fine. Many over here use there own mix with an oil called Molsyn, a clear synthetic oil avaiable in different weights. They have good results although I do not like the smell of that oil as it burns or the way it makes the airplane smell after a while. It does not leave the motor as clean after a couple of season as the Coolpower however.

A cheap brand castor laden sport fuel will probably lessen the longevity...nothing that I have ever really tried.

Mark

You can expect the motor to outlast the plane. As to how many gallons...I cannot say exactly. I have many YS motors and other than crash damage repair, the only items I've replaces is bearings on my first YS 45 2 stroke(after 10 years!) and a gasket/O ring set on a YS 120AC that I bought used. My little YS 53 is on its 5th plane!

While were on the subject of "The right fuel", I have searched and believe me there is a s**t load of posts on this topic, but I have been left tainted, and confused on which one is "The right fuel". I have not ran the YS yet..... saving up for the radio, and a more powerful starter, prob the Dynatron by Sullivan.... but I have bought some fuel. It's by WildCat and it states it is a YS 20-20 blend all synthetic fuel. I have read the arguements of castor, and no castor for build up in the valves, cloggs it up etc.. Then there's the ones' who say a fuel with no castor is asking for premature engine wear, for synthetics can not replace the friction reduction castor can impose.

Sooooooooooooooooo, with that said, will the Wildcat YS 20-20 mix all synthetic be ok ? I would like to have the longevity M. Novak has had with his, 80+ gallons!!!!!!! Out standing!!!!!!


Oh, and thanks fellers, for the replies.
Dennis

The fuels that are popular with YS flyers are Powermaster, Coolpower and Magnum as far as I've been able to observe. I flew mostly Powermaster this season with great satisfaction. Some of the guys in the four-stroke fraternity generally like helicopter blends, which are typically 20% lube, all synthetic/no castor, and as much nitro as you can stand in your pocketbook. Somebody explained to me once exactly what the problem is between YS and castor. Something to do with compatibility with plastic parts, maybe. Regulator diaphragm? I dunno. I'm too old to remember all these details, but I am trained to keep castor out of my YS's.

I am not anti-castor, use it in all my two-strokes, straight and blended.

Caster is a great lubricant for air cooled motors. It takes alot of heat to burn it and therefore it stays around longer unburnt than the rest of the mixture. The down side is that with the right amount of heat it tends to gum up. This is bad for the working parts of a 4 stroke. Synthetic oil is being used more and more with better results as time goes on. We use synthetic oil in our gas motors after the breakin period with virtually no wear on the motor(it's that good!).
Synthetics actually hinder the breakin period because of their excellent lubrication properties. All the above is one of the reasons that YS's last so long. I can break down any of my 4 strokes and it will look virtually brand new inside!.
The fuel you have chosen is great for your motor. The one thing to remember though is AFTER THE FLYING DAY AND YOU DRAIN THE TANK, RUN YOUR YS UNTIL THERE IS NO LONGER ANY FUEL IN IT. CONTINUE TO CRANK IT WITH GLOW UNTIL IT WILL NO LONGER SPUTTER! This also ensures longivity. I've let motors sit for 6-9months like this, fueled them and flown. We will be happy to answer any other Q's you have to make your experience a trouble free one!

Good point majortom! But castor wont hurt your diaphram. Now any other petroleum based product will! So you dont need to put any afterun oil in it. It will be fine without it. The castor only gums up your valves (like the glaze on your 2 stroke mufflers).

Dmacsimum,
Reading through your post I thought I would mention this thing. You do not need a high-torque starter for YS. If you want to buy a nice Sullivan just because it is a quality piece of equipment, then do, but if you were thinking that it is necessary in order to turn over the YS, don't worry. I still use my old Tower Hobbies starter and it spins the YS from 63 to 140DZ without any trouble.

On fuel, I would think that Wildcat YS mix would be just fine. I use Coolpower because my other choices are brands that I have no experience with. Coolpower is the only American brand of fuel here, others are Tornado (from the UK I think), and then the German brands from Robbe and Graupner that where excellent at gumming up my little 2-strokes.

Mark

Is there anyone with a YS110 that can tell me what the small setscrew packaged with the check valve is for?

Wade

It is to put an extension on the high speed needle if desired. I personally put a 2-56 socket head screw in the needle valve and reach through the cowl with a ball driver the set the mixture. That way you don't have a long rod sticking out there to be affected by vibration.

Thanks Dave, I feel pretty stupid for asking that now. One more for ya... I just asked this on the YS forum then I noticed Dave was gonna be out for a few days. Can the exhaust pipe be shortened for a better fit with the cowl?

Thanks,
Wade

The pipe is straight so could be shortened and I have found the best thing to use on the threads is Teflon Plumbers Tape and snug things up well.

Dmacsimum-My first YS 1.20 is four years old and still cranking with Omega 15% fuel; 9000 rpm with a 16x8 apc; I use the castor content as a mixture indicator-when the oil residue on the airplane gets a little darker than light tan, you are too lean. Mine was never touched by an electric starter either; flood it when cold and flip the prop backwards up against compression, presto! No need to choke or prime the rest of the day, one flip backwards and get your fingers out of the way! Used up several chicken sticks! I believe YS sells a compatible afterrun oil that is safe with the silicone diaphragm, etc. JIM

To all, I thank you for the replies ! By the way, I too was wondering about the small hex set screw sent with the check valve. Didn't figure it was for the high speed needle for extention.... Nice touch YS!

In talking about starters, yeah, I was thinking about the Sullivan Dynatron just for the fact of it being a nicely built starter, and powerful. Also, it seems I continue to move up in engine displacement size with every new plane purchase[sm=lol.gif]. So I'm planning for the future for bigger engines etc..

Well, I'm glad I bought the right fuel. I almost have enough money saved for the radio and such. It's looking like I'm going to buy the Futaba 6YG with 4 BB 3004 servos. I plan on saving up for a hitec high torque servo for the elevator. I'm thinking the Futaba BB 3004 servos would be okay for the ailerons, rudder, and throttle??????

My pride and joy engine pics are below:
Dennis

One recommendation. Place the motor on the bench with a 15-8 for 30-45 minutes running time a full throttle. The first thing the YS sport motors need (the FZ series and any earlier non-DZ/L) is a good break-in. Do as the manual suggests, rich for a bit, and turn the needle in a few clicks each tank full. Starting at aroud two out and finish at about 1.5-1.25 out is in the ball park for this motor. 30 minutes on the bench will NOT fully break in the motor, but you will be way ahead of the game when you go to fly.

Here is the thing. YS have lots of power. Flying around at 1/4 throttle will cause the break-in period to last for 50 flights or more. Many YS sport motors will react poorly at times during that period and frustrate the user. The 30-45 minutes at full throttle on the ground will get the break-in well underway and save stress on the airplane. The mid-range response will change considerably in that time and when you mount and fly, the motor will be a jewel. After you intitial 30 minutes of high speed running, allow the motor to run at 1/4-1/3 throttle and listen. If it loads up, turn in the regulator about 1/4 turn. Try again. Still loads, another 1/4 turn in. Do this until you have reached one turn or the motor no longer loads up. If you have gone in one turn on the regulator and it still loads, run the motor another tank or two at full throttle. The break-in is most important in getting this critical transition phase evened out and it does even out.

Mark

Mark,
Thanks for the break in info. Unfortunately I do not have a bench to run in the engine. I'm having to go the most cost effeciant way going with this expensive combo set up (Expensive to me anyway). I planned on running about 3 tanks (16oz=1 tank) on the ground at full throttle with a rich needle setting as per YS recommendations somewhat. After that, I will attempt my first flight, again having a rich needle setting, and keeping her at, or very near full throttle as much as possible, flying the plane in patterns with no verticle work. I appreciate your info on the regulator setting, for I have heard horror stories of others that have lost the setting, and after have had nothing but bad responce for the YS engine.

Dennis

You might want to rethink your radio selection. While the one you chose is a good radio, you will want a better one in the future. SO now is the time to think about it. Save a little longer, check Servo City and look at the 9Z! For $250 you can get the radio. It has all the channels you will ever need and 10 model memory so all you would ever have to buy in the future are receivers and servos.

Hi Deputydog. If you talk about the 9Z, I am willing to buy it from you for 300$ and you would make by the way 50$ profit . You must be talking of the 9C which is by far less expensive than the 9Z

The 9C is a great radio though [8D]

Well,
I know I can use a better radio, but unfortunately my money tree is starting to hybernate, and money is getting scarce for this project. While I have this one going, I'm also looking at buying an ARF, or building a plane for a PAW BR .061 RC engine I have. It maybe the Hummer by Sig, or the Cloud Ranger by Herr. I'm favoring the Hummer, for I believe it maybe more suitable for my wants of the plane in reations with the engine.

In all, I went ahead and bought the Futaba Skysport 6YG W/4 3004 BB servos, and I bought the MG HD Hitec Digital 35645 to use for the elevator. The HD servo might be a tad overkill, but I believe in this case, more is better. As for as the other 3004 BB servos, I believe they will be okay for the rest of the applications.

I thank you all for the shared knowledge,
Dennis

3D Joy;
Yep, I meant the 9C! Thanks for the catch...