goboto

I'm at the stage of building my Sig Kadet Seniorita when its time to start to hook-up my Saito 30 throttle and fuel lines and fuel tank before I finish building the forward sections of the fuse, where I can't get my hand into. (Oh yea, and a little dope to fuel proof inside there too!) For the throttle, since the carb is at the rear of the engine and so close to the firewall, the model's construction manual shows a small post with a ball link attached to the throttle arm, and the nylon ball connector wired and epoxied to the flexible cable passed through the firewall.

So far, I have not been able to find the same pieces at my LHS. So what I think I might try, is to pass the throttle cable through the firewall a little farther away from the engine and do a 180 bend in the rod soldered to the cable to hook-up from the front, rather than the side. But my first challenge is to find something that will pass through the hole on the throttle arm. I've tried the metal Sullivan connectors that came with the flexi-cable pushrod, but I think the metal-to-metal is a bad thing for the radio? I've tried Du-Bro nylon links, and those Du-Bro EZ connectors(the little brass bushings you pass the rod through and lock the length if the rod with the set screw type)... But all the pins on all the connectors pins are too large. This is a brand new motor, and a little jewel. I'm not sure about what I can do to the carb without affecting the factory adjustments. I have yet to start it up, and begin the break-in. There is a little allen screw that holds the throttle arm onto the carb barrel, I assume I can remove the throttle arm to drill out the hole a little bigger to fit the connectors? Is this normal to do? Do you guys typically do a 180 bend in the pushrod, or is there a better way? (Pictures would be helpful if you have any.)

My other issue is, the nipple for the fuel input is pointed at about a 45 degree up, and towards the firewall. There are two allen screws that look like they hold the silver needle valve part inside the main grey carb body. My manual indicates my carb is a "air-bleed" type, and there is a tiny hole in the carb body side confirmimg same. Can I losen these two allen screws (that are on each side of the main needle valve) and rotate the part so the fuel input nipple points straight-up for easier connecting and clearances? I'm just unsure about this carb, and I'm new to this motor. What will these adjustments do when it comes time to start it for the first time. Since I'm new to this I'm concerned about the "factory" settings.

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

Can't tell you about the two screws without looking at mine first but the easiest way to do throttle linkages on Saitos is to go past the arm and come bac k with a 180 degree bend. On my Rascal .40 they recommended doing that and it work fine.

Drill out the arm to whatever size you require.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Go, the fuel inlet on my Saito .30 is pointing straight up parallel to the intake tube and since the spraybar just ends in the center of the venturi, changing its position won't alter anything. As for the throttle arm you can use a servo arm as a swing lever mounted in front of the engine mount inside the fuse, run the pushrod from the servo to it and then a short rod from the swing lever back to the carb. Use a small screw to mount the servo arm to the inside of the fuse and a short peice of fuel tubing for a bushing. It is precise and works great. My .30 has spent most of its life on a Sig LT 25.

Ernie Misner

Since ball links tend to work great on the 4 stroke throttle arms, I did not hesitate to go ahead and drill out the hole in the throttle arm to accept the larger end of the ball part. I then use a dab of glue or thread locker on the nut to keep it snug.

Ernie

goboto

After reading the above, and sitting there looking at things for a while, I'll drill the throttle arm hole to the size I need. I'd like to take it off the engine to do this, and it's obvious that I loosen the allen bolt holding it on, but what do I torque against to do so? There is a definite open and close stop, can I torque against that? or should I definitely avoid that? I've looked at the manual several times but the exploded view doesn't seem to match my carb. I'm sitting here looking at it, and there is a small black hex nut on the back, near the air blead hole. What is that for? Something to do with the throttle barrel I assume?

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

The arm is plastic and you won't have to open the hole much. Put the drill in a pin vise and do it by hand on the engine.

goboto

BTW Meesh, the arm is made of soft metal and bends easily. I was having visions (nightmares?) about needing a power drill to do this, but a pin vise, a 1/16th bit, and a minute's work was all that was needed to size the hook-up hole on the throttle arm, and I didn't have to remove it from the engine. Much less of a problem than I thought, or was making it. I'm learning. Thanx everyone.

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

I have a new one and it's plastic sorry for the wrong info. I have an older 150 and that has a metal arm.

Glad you got it done OK!

Ernie Misner

It's not a bad idea to order a spare throttle arm anyway..... just to have one on hand, being plastic and all.

Ernie