more help with breaking in
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Charleston,
SC
Hey, Guys,
Built a lot of planes and flown alot of planes. Haven't managed to land very many of them, though!! Anyway, I have yet another question about breaking in engines in gereral. Mostly two strokes, but four-bangers can get in on this as well. I have read Hobbsy's input, as well countless other posts, but my big qiestion is, how can I know if it's broken in at all, let alone properly? When I was growing up, (I'm 35 and cut my teeth on Goldberg Electras in 1990) you simply ran a couple tanks through it and pronounced the motor broken in. With my stellar record, (I DO manage to get my money's worth out of a kit!) I haven't given it much thought until now. But as I began to lust after more than bottom-of the-line garbage, I didn't want to make a mistake. I have read numerous posts of guys ruining engines with improper break-in. I got confused by all this.
For the record, I have irritated my neighbors this whole week by running motors I either haven't run or, haven't run more than once in years. Two 40LA's, a 46FX, a 25FP,
and a 52 surpass mostly. I run them rich as hell for a while. Lean them out for a minute or so (not at max, thought, but to get them warm). Then richen again and repeat. Not sure of my success, as I am successful if they continue to start!! They do, of course. Many of you have made me question my methods and not I need your help.
Please help me with any knowledge or input you think would assist me. I know this is a general question, but they do run the same basic way, don't they?! I am reading that a lot of manuals are wrong. That lean running will ruin. That rich running will ruin. Please help me out!! Sorry for the babble. Tying one on this fine San Diego morning overlooking scenic Tijuana!!
Thanks to all,
Bryan
Remember, Guys. He who spends the most time building will be the first to midair!!
Built a lot of planes and flown alot of planes. Haven't managed to land very many of them, though!! Anyway, I have yet another question about breaking in engines in gereral. Mostly two strokes, but four-bangers can get in on this as well. I have read Hobbsy's input, as well countless other posts, but my big qiestion is, how can I know if it's broken in at all, let alone properly? When I was growing up, (I'm 35 and cut my teeth on Goldberg Electras in 1990) you simply ran a couple tanks through it and pronounced the motor broken in. With my stellar record, (I DO manage to get my money's worth out of a kit!) I haven't given it much thought until now. But as I began to lust after more than bottom-of the-line garbage, I didn't want to make a mistake. I have read numerous posts of guys ruining engines with improper break-in. I got confused by all this.
For the record, I have irritated my neighbors this whole week by running motors I either haven't run or, haven't run more than once in years. Two 40LA's, a 46FX, a 25FP,
and a 52 surpass mostly. I run them rich as hell for a while. Lean them out for a minute or so (not at max, thought, but to get them warm). Then richen again and repeat. Not sure of my success, as I am successful if they continue to start!! They do, of course. Many of you have made me question my methods and not I need your help.
Please help me with any knowledge or input you think would assist me. I know this is a general question, but they do run the same basic way, don't they?! I am reading that a lot of manuals are wrong. That lean running will ruin. That rich running will ruin. Please help me out!! Sorry for the babble. Tying one on this fine San Diego morning overlooking scenic Tijuana!!
Thanks to all,
Bryan
Remember, Guys. He who spends the most time building will be the first to midair!!
#3
Senior Member
Brian,
Answering to Joe, this is [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_704159/mpage_1/key_tapered%252Dbore/anchor/tm.htm#704159]one thread[/link] you will want to read very thoroughly.
With the exception of the Surpass, you broke all your other engines wrong! (the 'in' is omitted on purpose).
You should feel lucky if they all still have their nickel plating. About the fact that all these engines' pistons have been beaten smaller than needed; you should have asked sooner.
And since these are all engines from OS, you could have just gone to the [link=http://www.osengines.com/faq/product-faq.html#q2]OS Q&A section[/link] and seen the same thing there.
For ringed (and cast iron piston, steel sleeve) engines, rich is initially good, to seat the ring and to anneal it and the piston, with multiple heat and complete cool-down cycles.
For ABC/AAC/ABN engines, too rich is a killer; you just need a rich, two cycle setting, 300-400 lower than your eventual flight setting.
Answering to Joe, this is [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_704159/mpage_1/key_tapered%252Dbore/anchor/tm.htm#704159]one thread[/link] you will want to read very thoroughly.
With the exception of the Surpass, you broke all your other engines wrong! (the 'in' is omitted on purpose).
You should feel lucky if they all still have their nickel plating. About the fact that all these engines' pistons have been beaten smaller than needed; you should have asked sooner.
And since these are all engines from OS, you could have just gone to the [link=http://www.osengines.com/faq/product-faq.html#q2]OS Q&A section[/link] and seen the same thing there.
For ringed (and cast iron piston, steel sleeve) engines, rich is initially good, to seat the ring and to anneal it and the piston, with multiple heat and complete cool-down cycles.
For ABC/AAC/ABN engines, too rich is a killer; you just need a rich, two cycle setting, 300-400 lower than your eventual flight setting.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Apple Valley, CA
Ring engines and ABC engines are broken in differently. Dar has written some excellent points on this in other posts if you do a search.





