JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

I'm looking for a way to extend my needle valve adustment to just outside the cowling with my Saito 180. I think there is a set screw on the end of the needle adjustment knob, is this correct? I really don't want to reach inside my cowling since my muffler is close and don't want to burn my fingers. Any ideas?

This is something that Bill Robison said in another thread. Bill I hope you don't mind me quoting you here. I didn't change anything.

<<Just one caveat on the needlle valve extension, and it applies to any engine. Vibration, and needle thread wear. And the heavier the extension, the worse it is. Best is some method to reach inside with a tool, next is a plain wire with a support to limit the vibration. Worst is the wire with a wheel collar and no support. If you have to go without support just put a 90 degree bend in the end of the wire - lightest way to get something to grab.

Bill.>>

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Joe:

You are welcome to quote me, but only when I'm right. Let's just allow my errors to be forgotten.

Yes, there is a setscrew in the side of the Saito needle, just for an extension.

But so far as the needle being close to the muffler is concerned, just take the carb off and turn it around, let the needle point the other way. That can be a real PTA if you already have the throttle linkage set up in the plane, but give it the old eyeball, might not be the bother you think it to be.

When assembling a Saito I stick the high speed needle out the side away from the muffler as a matter of course. Upright or inverted mounting, this keeps the main needle away from the muffler, as you have noticed, and with conventional side mounting it makes the needle stick up on top. Just the most sensible way in most cases. Or that's my opinion.

With the needle on the side away from the muffler it shouldn't take more than an inch or so of extension, and if you use a small bit of 1/16" wire with the last 1/4" bent over to use as a handle that's not enough length to cause any bother. If the engine is in a big fat radial cowl and you need 3-4" just put a servo mounting grommet in the cowling hole where it comes through. And if you bend the end of the wire at 45 degrees you will still be able to grab it for adjustment, and being the shallow bend you'll also be able to feed it through its hole as you mount the cowl.

Bill.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

You can also put a 2-56 x 1/4 inch screw in the needle valve and lock it with set screw and reach in with a ball driver to set it. It does not have the extra weight sticking out for vibration or more accurately for tortional impulses to act upon.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

I'm pretty sure I'll have to turn that carb around regardless. It just doesn't work out in that position. As is, it makes my throttle control rod come about an inch from the top of the fuse so I'd have to make up a mount for the servo on the top of the fuse (instead of using the servo tray). Do those screws for the carb need lock tite on them? Blue right? Or just torque them down?

Once I turn the carb around I'll have to see where the needle ends up and dertermine whether to use a piece of thin music wire or put the 2-56 hex head screw in there and use a tool through and access hole in the cowl. Either way, good ideas. thanks !!!

One other cowling issue: That stock Saito 180 exhaust is pretty short. Will I be able to angle it so exhaust gunk doesn't end up inside my cowling? I'd prefer to angle it straight down but it's not an easy angle to achieve given the fitting angles. It almost ends up pointing slightly forward instead of straight down. I've seen several threads on this issue and everybody has trouble with the extensions falling off from vibration, etc. Those silicone ones at the LHS will not even last a flight I'm sure. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Joe

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Well this doesn't happen too often. I turned the carb around and the needle sticks through the cowling just by an eighth inch. The throttle control arm is at the perfect position for the throttle servo height on the servo tray. It's a straight shot. And I got the muffler pointing straight down so the all the exhaust should stay out of my cowling and off my plane. Or I just drank too much coffee and this is all a delusion.

Thanks for the help.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Joe:

Isn't it wonderful when the gigantic problems of life have such a simple solution? Don't you wish they all did?

That flexibility is just one of the things I like so much about the Saito engines. And if you have the late muffler with its inlet at a 45 degree angle there's even more flexibility. You may have the late muffler, the early ones were straight cylindric. See picture of the late type.

And more on the flexibility; if you want more needle sticking out the cowling you can loosen the packing nut on the inlet pipe and rotate it to move the carb further fro\m the center of the engine.

I have never used LocTite on the carb screws, and never had them come loose. What I have had come loose is the jam nut for the exhaust at the head end. My cure is to tighten it while the engine is hot.

Glad it's all worked out, neep us posted.

Bill.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Yeah I have the later one. It worked out pretty nice with the 45. I'll have to remember to crank down the muffler when it's hot.

One more thing that I've been wondering about: When I was breaking in the Saito 180 the other night, after I leaned it out and on the third tank some black stuff came out of the vent tube into the tank from the exhaust nipple on the engine. Is that normal? Man I was wondering if I cooked it or something. Hopefully it was just carbon and not cylinder plating. It ran perfectly after that but I was a little worried. It's a type F plug and Omega 15% fuel. I kept it at 5 turns out for the first tank like they said but I kept leaning it 1/2 turn during the three tanks. I ended up at 2 3/4 and 8500 RPM with a 18-6W.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Joe:

As long as you run the engine you will get a little "Black Stuff" out the exhaust. It is scirched oil, not to worry about. But I usually have a fuel filter in the pressure line from the muffler to the tank, keeps most of it from getting in the tank. Master Airscrew sells a pack of three filters for about $2, they are called disposable but the back flush once in a while keeps them in service, the filter is nothing but a metal mesh screen, cleans easily.

The "F" plug and Omega 15% is my choice also. And your rpm is good for an almost new engine, with that prop you should have approximately 2000 rpm more when it's peaked.

Prop it for 9000-9500 on the ground to give yourself some margin in the air, try not to go over 10,500 rpm in flight.

Bill.