Hello -

I recently bought a Moki 1.35 that was used. The first few times I fired it up on my test stand it ran well for 2-3 minutes and then seemed to get hot and died. After those 3 runs it will now not do much. The engine dos'nt seem to want to pick up fuel. When the engine is cold I take the tube off the muffler and blow into the tank which sends fuel to the carb. It will run for a few seconds and then dies. If I try to advance the throttle while it is running it simply slows and dies. I tried adjusting the idle knob and found that if moved more than just a little bit all fuel would be blocked. Also, the piece that is moved by the throttle servo and determines the amount of air to the carb has fallen out a number of times. It seems to just be held in with a small gasket. I'm using 5% fuel to try to keep the engine cool. Also, this engine looks to be an older model as compared to some recent adds that I've seen.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks,

Brian

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I am no expert but I gotta respond.

You say that "the piece that is moved by the throttle servo and determines the amount of air to the carb has fallen out a number of times. It seems to just be held in with a small gasket". Moki has a name for it, I think the exploded view calls that the "drawbar" and we call it something else. Like throttle barrel. I included (I hope) an image with this post.

The Drawbar is held in place by a bolt and cap nut that screws into the carb's body. The bolt goes/sets into the black groove you see in the attached image.

It could be that the black rubber O-rings have worn themselves to the point that they no longer provide a good seal. They are found in the Low Speed Disk. Just pull it out.

Also, my Moki has a "99" stamped on the exhaust side engine mounting lug, and I bought my 1.35 in 2000. I don't know if the "99" means the year of manufacture. What does yours have stamped on it?

My engine turns an APC 16X8, has large fuel tubing from clunk to carb inlet nipple, no fuel filter, 16 ounce tank, Bisson Pitts Style muffler with the 1 exhaust tube, OS F 4 stroke plug, and running on 5% PowerMaster fuel. What have you got? Don't leave any info out.

I think that I sill have the original instructions from Gerard Enterprises that include break-in procedure. If you need a copy, I don't think that Mr. Gerard would mind.

The Low Speed Disk does not require much movement. It should be about 3-5 notches to the right of the marking. Get the High Speed needle valve taken care of first. Hopefully, your tank is centered to the center of the needle valve or no lower than 3/8".

Also, I hope that all the bolts are tightened. It's got a lotta bolts, don't it?

Let me know how it does.

SA Flyer

One possibility is that you're just not getting enough fuel, either at the high- or low-end. I've never had the 1.35 but have had the 1.8 and 2.10. I imagine the 1.35 is the same regarding the low-speed adjustment wheel. The "+" on the low-speed adjustment wheel does not mean more rich as you might expect. It is actually degrees of leanness . . . Moving it to the "+" side means you are leaning it out, not richening it. As taken from the 2.10 manual - "You may turn the "idle knob" clockwise to lean or counterclockwise to richen the idle mixture. Do not turn this adjustment more than about 15 degrees in either direction or you will cut off the fuel supply to the engine." You might want to try setting the low-speed wheel to the center, or neutral position, and get your high-speed adjustment set first as suggested in the previous post. Start out with about 3 1/2 turns on the needle valve. Once you get it running at WOT lean it out until you get peak RPM and then richen it so that your RPMs drop 200 - 300. When doing this, if you have a large tank such as a 24 oz., do it without much fuel in the tank unless you're running a pump or regulator. Reason being that the weight of a full tank of fuel will help "push" the fuel and as you burn it off the motor will lean somewhat because you don't have the weight of the addititional fuel. Once you get that set, let the engine idle for about five minutes. Quickly advance it to full throttle and see what happens (with the low-speed wheel still set in the neutral position). If it sputters and really smokes, lean it just a tad. If it dies, richen it. You have it close when you can idle for about five minutes and hit it to WOT with a smooth transition. Just be sure to just barely move that wheel when adjusting the low-end. Hope this helps.

Dan

Are you using large fuel tubing and a large klunk? This is a must for Mokis.