Hello,

I am having trouble with my Moki 1.35 what am I doing wrong?

I'll try and explain the best I can...I could not find any FIA or 5% glow fuel at LHS so I get some 10% and ad a little Castor to it (about 3 OZ). manual says ok but better if you run No Nitro at all.
I start the break in in the normal way and just as the manual says, run till gets good and warm for about 5 minutes shut off let cool and repeat for at least a good 30 minutes break in time witch in my case has been about a week of running it every day and about a half tank or so at 5 minute at a time with the 10% and the extra castor and very rich. By this time I have used up most of the 10% and I am starting to lean her out a little more each time.
I go get the 5% from the LHS that I ordered and added about 3-4 OZ. of castor and finish up the break in leaning out a little at a time.
By the time I get it to about 8500rpm range I check the needle and it is only about a 1 1/2 turn out WOW! what the heck...(thats what I am thinking) so I decided to try the larger fuel line (a buddy said it may help the fuel flow) and see if I could get a better setting out of it, didn't help, Now it is about 1/2 turn out before I can reach a clean RPM needle is very touchy, I am either too lean or to rich.
Too much Castor maybe?
Oh yea and now when I rev it up and drop the throttle (when leaned out but not to lean) It has a quick and metallic like knock but when I run it rich I do not here it.
Can anyone help?

Thanks, Robin

Robin, could you clear soemthing up, pls? When you sa you are at 1.5 or .5 "turns out" I gather you mean you are that number of turns from RUNNING OUT of threads on the main needle valve, right? In other words, the carb doesn't seem to be responding to the needle valve position, huh?

If that's the case, mine did the same thing when new. It seems the fuel draw improves significantly on these engines with additional running time. After 40 mins of bench running and about 25 flights, my Moki 1.35 is just STARTING to really break in. It's now turning and APC 18X8 at 8500 rpm and is very reliable.

I also went to large (1/8" ID) fuel tubing, but be sure to tie-wrap or use clips to keep the seal to the tubes good.

To improve the mid-range and get rid of the rattle you describe, I had to close the idle adjustment disk (lean it out) about 5 degrees. It now transitions and idles very well.

One last thought, throw out the stock glow plug, if you haven't already and replace it with an OS F type or Enya #3 plug.

Good advise above. What prop are you running? Is the engine in a plane or on a test stand, and is the muffler on during break in? It's best to keep it off during break in if possible. It sounds like you have run it in enough. The Moki's need to be weaned off of lots and lots of oil as soon as possible. It makes for better mid range and top end. I'm not saying to turn the needle in for the last blessed rpm, but just wean it off the oil and run it responsibly. The manual refers to oil as low as 10%, but be careful! It's a beast of an engine if you learn to give it what it wants.