help on Satio twin
#1
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From: Delmar,
NY
I just purchased my first twin engine a Satio 182 and am loooking for some help
How can i put smoke in this plane what kind of exhaust do I use and where can I get it
and how do you hook up a remote glow, with 2 remotes or can i hook up both glow plugs to the same remote. I am thinking of using an onboard glow maybe the MPI anyone have any experience with this or is there somthing else I should consider Thanks for the help
How can i put smoke in this plane what kind of exhaust do I use and where can I get it
and how do you hook up a remote glow, with 2 remotes or can i hook up both glow plugs to the same remote. I am thinking of using an onboard glow maybe the MPI anyone have any experience with this or is there somthing else I should consider Thanks for the help
#2
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Can't help you with the smoke other than to tell you that you might get a smoke pump and pipe the oil into the exhaust header. I'm not sure how it will affect the performance since it may cause the back pressure in the exhaust to increase.
As for the remote glow, I have 5 twin setups with the glow plugs wired in parallel connected to one remote glow connection. I use a very large setup of 4 2400mAH Nicads also wired in parallel to drive both glow plugs and have never had problems getting both cylinders to fire. There are some on-board glow drivers for twins. I installed one in a plane for a friend. He had a Saito 270 twin and says it works well. I think it was a McDaniel multi-cylinder glow driver.
A little searching and I found one on Horizon website: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...?ProdID=MCD472
Good luck,
George
As for the remote glow, I have 5 twin setups with the glow plugs wired in parallel connected to one remote glow connection. I use a very large setup of 4 2400mAH Nicads also wired in parallel to drive both glow plugs and have never had problems getting both cylinders to fire. There are some on-board glow drivers for twins. I installed one in a plane for a friend. He had a Saito 270 twin and says it works well. I think it was a McDaniel multi-cylinder glow driver.
A little searching and I found one on Horizon website: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...?ProdID=MCD472
Good luck,
George
#3

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I have a 1.82 as well. It has 4 glow plugs don't worry about lighting all 4 plugs to start, 1 per cly will be fine. I use an E-Gass system (essentialy an electronic switch) it is no longer produced but there are other similar systems on the market. I run my plugs on 2 cells at 3.0 volts. You run one wire to one glow plug and the other wire to the other glow plug on the oppisite cly. Each plug is 1.5 Volts so running the plugs in series the 3.0 volts is spent between the two plugs. Now there will be several web sites that will discuss the pros and cons of plugs in series or parallel. I am telling you I am having success in the series setup I know my plugs are lit and working.
No help on the smoke but it would be an educated guess like most posters here would provide.
Sparky
No help on the smoke but it would be an educated guess like most posters here would provide.
Sparky
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From: Bracey,
VA
If you use the remote glow igniter, hook it up to the glo outlet on the power panel and crank it all the way up. Hand held igniters do not produce the volts needed for two glow plugs in series or parallel.
My on-board system is a micro switch activated by the throttle linkage. Triggers on from idle to 6 clicks of throttle. Battery source is 2 1350 sub-c nicad's in series, voltage when on is 1.65 volts when the batteries are fully charged. Every thing runs through a switch, so the system can be cut off when not needad.
Jim
My on-board system is a micro switch activated by the throttle linkage. Triggers on from idle to 6 clicks of throttle. Battery source is 2 1350 sub-c nicad's in series, voltage when on is 1.65 volts when the batteries are fully charged. Every thing runs through a switch, so the system can be cut off when not needad.
Jim
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Spit:
I'm sure Jim intended to say his NiCads were wired in parallel, series would be over 3v at full charge, bye-bye plugs.
Smoke? The twins are delivered with a pressure nipple on one pipe only. get a second with the nipple (you need the one for 10mm thread) and use the first for tank pressure, the second for injecting the smoke oil. It will not affect your engine run.
Bill.
I'm sure Jim intended to say his NiCads were wired in parallel, series would be over 3v at full charge, bye-bye plugs.
Smoke? The twins are delivered with a pressure nipple on one pipe only. get a second with the nipple (you need the one for 10mm thread) and use the first for tank pressure, the second for injecting the smoke oil. It will not affect your engine run.
Bill.
#6

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Bill,
I reread Jim's post I'm not sure which way he runs his set up but see my post #3 you can run your batteries in series if the GP are in series as well. To run the batteries in series (3V) hook up the positive lead to center pin on one glow plug and the neg to the other glow plug you are running a 3V system through one GP use the body of the engine as a conductor and out the other GP. You have the GP in series as well, it needs 3v to run correctly both get the same amount of current. Only down side if one GP opens (burns out) neither GP will light but that isn't all bad since you can't start the engine. It really works very well.
I plan to run my PBM twin using this same set up.
Nifty GP connector is to use 1/8" wheel collars, most are brass under the chrome plating drill another hole through the side of the wheel colar sand off the chrome and solder on the wire then use the jam scew to attach to the GP. easy cheap reliable as well.
Sparky
I reread Jim's post I'm not sure which way he runs his set up but see my post #3 you can run your batteries in series if the GP are in series as well. To run the batteries in series (3V) hook up the positive lead to center pin on one glow plug and the neg to the other glow plug you are running a 3V system through one GP use the body of the engine as a conductor and out the other GP. You have the GP in series as well, it needs 3v to run correctly both get the same amount of current. Only down side if one GP opens (burns out) neither GP will light but that isn't all bad since you can't start the engine. It really works very well.
I plan to run my PBM twin using this same set up.
Nifty GP connector is to use 1/8" wheel collars, most are brass under the chrome plating drill another hole through the side of the wheel colar sand off the chrome and solder on the wire then use the jam scew to attach to the GP. easy cheap reliable as well.
Sparky
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Sparky:
I was going by the 1.65 volts he stated at full charge.
I've never liked series connections for the plugs just for the reason you mentioned - one blows and the whole system is dead. Or if one shorts it then blows the other plug.
Bill.
I was going by the 1.65 volts he stated at full charge.
I've never liked series connections for the plugs just for the reason you mentioned - one blows and the whole system is dead. Or if one shorts it then blows the other plug.
Bill.
#8

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Bill,
Series has worked fine for about 50 flights. The down side of the parallel is that I have to run more wires hence more weight. The batteries cannot be easily charged due to differnt impediance of the batteries and consequently the glow plugs do not draw the same amout of current so you can end up with a glow plug poorly lit. I am using the series system with great success, and wouldn't heitate to recomend the set up to anyone else.
Sparky
Series has worked fine for about 50 flights. The down side of the parallel is that I have to run more wires hence more weight. The batteries cannot be easily charged due to differnt impediance of the batteries and consequently the glow plugs do not draw the same amout of current so you can end up with a glow plug poorly lit. I am using the series system with great success, and wouldn't heitate to recomend the set up to anyone else.
Sparky
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From: Bracey,
VA
The batteries are in series and the glow plug harness is in parallel. The 1.65 voltes is an actual measurement of voltage in the system when the battery voltage is at 2.84 volts (full charge). The straight voltage off a power panel with the dial all the way down is 10.56 volts.
When I started the 182 with a remote set up I had to set the dial to 4 or better. One nicad in my onboard set up would not start the engine, so I upped the voltage.
Jim
When I started the 182 with a remote set up I had to set the dial to 4 or better. One nicad in my onboard set up would not start the engine, so I upped the voltage.
Jim



