Breaking in a Webra .50
#1
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I have had very poor results with my Webra. It seems to get hot and then tight. I am using 5% with a little caster. It has about 1/2 gal. through it. I have been told how great they are but I need some help. This is not a plug and play OS. Suggestions on a glow plug and a break in prop ?
#2

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http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_22...tm.htm#2223799
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_12...tm.htm#1286125
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88.../tm.htm#883584
These threads have some information on breaking in the Webra 50. My Webra was as plug and play as they come. I ran it rich for a couple of tanks with CoolPower 15%, an APC 9x8 prop, and OS #8 plug. It was on a Q-500 at the time. I have since switched to CoolPower 10% and now have it on a profile plane with a 12x4 prop. Mine ran like a champ from the start. Hope you get yours straightened out.
Eric
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_12...tm.htm#1286125
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88.../tm.htm#883584
These threads have some information on breaking in the Webra 50. My Webra was as plug and play as they come. I ran it rich for a couple of tanks with CoolPower 15%, an APC 9x8 prop, and OS #8 plug. It was on a Q-500 at the time. I have since switched to CoolPower 10% and now have it on a profile plane with a 12x4 prop. Mine ran like a champ from the start. Hope you get yours straightened out.
Eric
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If this engine is new.....pull the glow plug and rinse it REAL good with RC fuel as many Italian engines recomend this as it may have metal shavings in her. Use a Sullivan "Dynatron" starter without the glow and DOUSE It REAL GOOD....I use Marvell Mystery Oil on my Norvels! fill with 20 drops marvell or "after run" just to smoothen it out a bit. Run the strater with NO GLOW and the oil in her without overheating the starter. I do this ALL on a stand on wood in my 8" vice on my work bench! Remember the hotter the engine; the colder the glow should be on a Webra. Now if you are using a SYNTHETIC castor at 15%, there is your problem!! Nitro is not the problem........you need AT LEAST 18% REAL CASTOR to run a Webra....not 18% SYNTHETIC but REAL CASTOR as it has a "higher flashpoint temp" than synthetic.....meaning the synthetic STOPS being a lubricant at a lower temp. I see "Morgan" all over......GOOD stuff, but it will TOAST a 2-stroke REAL FAST! It has top ingredients; but so many manufacturers recommend "POWERMASTER" in their dirrections ....it's not funny! They ALL recommend it! Get Powermaster (in the blue can) with 5 or even 10% nitro and you will see a MAJOR difference. If you live in a cold climate...it is time for 10 and 15% nitro.........we use 10 to 15% here in Florida and at HIGHER altitudes you need a HIGHER nitro!! They ALL recomend 18 to 22% real Castor and SIG is the ONLY fuel with a true 22% REAL CASTOR to lube her and keep her cool when running!!
The Slip!!
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The Slip!!
[email protected]
#4

FlyHard, did you follow the instructions in the manual? I broke mine in as per the manual with the exception of all castor oil and 0% nitro. I used 10% PowerMaster with a little extra castor added. I had no problems at all, and put it in service after about 30 min. of break-in. The first 30 min. on the bench was done at a rich two-stroke with varying throttle settings. I'm using a #8 O.S. plug and a APC 11x6 prop.
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I am using Powermaster 5% with some caster added. It was on a Twist but after repeated dead sticks it not going back on a plane till I am satisfied it is solid. Thanks for the help.
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Is that the Hangar 9 Twist? So, that's a 3d funfly type of thing, right?
Your fuel is fine, even without added castor. But the castor won't hurt anything.
For a break in prop you could use a 10x6 or maybe a 10x7. That's not the ideal prop for 3d, but it will fly the plane and put a light load on the engine to prevent it from overheating.
Any standard plug should do fine. Try an OS #8, that should work.
Adjust your high speed mixture plenty rich from peak rpm. You are looking for a noticable rpm drop when richening the needle from peak.
Take a look at the idle mixture too. There's a good chance it is set very rich from the factory. Set it for uptimum transition, and then just a tad rich from there.
Make sure you fuel plumbing is in top shape... lots of problems seen to come from that department. Tank properly isolated with foam?
After break in you could try 11x4, 11x5 and 12x4 props. But give it another couple of tanks on a 10" prop first.
Webra's are sweet engines, with top notch carbs. It shouldn't give you problems.
Your fuel is fine, even without added castor. But the castor won't hurt anything.
For a break in prop you could use a 10x6 or maybe a 10x7. That's not the ideal prop for 3d, but it will fly the plane and put a light load on the engine to prevent it from overheating.
Any standard plug should do fine. Try an OS #8, that should work.
Adjust your high speed mixture plenty rich from peak rpm. You are looking for a noticable rpm drop when richening the needle from peak.
Take a look at the idle mixture too. There's a good chance it is set very rich from the factory. Set it for uptimum transition, and then just a tad rich from there.
Make sure you fuel plumbing is in top shape... lots of problems seen to come from that department. Tank properly isolated with foam?
After break in you could try 11x4, 11x5 and 12x4 props. But give it another couple of tanks on a 10" prop first.
Webra's are sweet engines, with top notch carbs. It shouldn't give you problems.
#8
Senior Member

I broke in my Webra 50 with 5% omega and a 10x6 Apc.It was no problem.It idled fine after about 10min.I put a Apc 12x4 on it and went flying.It spins a 12x4 at 14000.It is my new favorite 40 size.
Slipkid,
You have no clue
Slipkid,
You have no clue

#9
Senior Member

FlyHard,
Your Webra .50GT is an ABN engine.
Follow this [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1850473/anchors_1850473/mpage_1/key_break%252Din%252Ctapered%252Dbore/anchor/tm.htm#1850473]RCU thread[/link] for break-in.
You can also follow the Webra manual, which says to do the break-in at a rich two-cycle setting, just lean of the point the engine break from four-cycle into two-cycle.
Unless you have access to Motul Micro, or to Sachs Aerosynth II/Aerosave synthetic oils, never run your engine on fuel which only contains synthetic oils. The synthetics made in the USA are inferior to Castor oil in wear protection and in heat resistance.
Go to the [link=http://www.klotzlube.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=KS&Category_Code=RC_PRODUCTS]Klotz web site[/link] to see the properties of their oils (in *.pdf files).
And casters are self steering wheels on shopping carts....
Your Webra .50GT is an ABN engine.
Follow this [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1850473/anchors_1850473/mpage_1/key_break%252Din%252Ctapered%252Dbore/anchor/tm.htm#1850473]RCU thread[/link] for break-in.
You can also follow the Webra manual, which says to do the break-in at a rich two-cycle setting, just lean of the point the engine break from four-cycle into two-cycle.
Unless you have access to Motul Micro, or to Sachs Aerosynth II/Aerosave synthetic oils, never run your engine on fuel which only contains synthetic oils. The synthetics made in the USA are inferior to Castor oil in wear protection and in heat resistance.
Go to the [link=http://www.klotzlube.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=KS&Category_Code=RC_PRODUCTS]Klotz web site[/link] to see the properties of their oils (in *.pdf files).
And casters are self steering wheels on shopping carts....