need help learning
#1
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From: grosse ile,
MI
I am new to the engine world and I was wondering if this kit would
work on a OS .15 glow engine? And if everytime I run my engine, do
I put any kind of lubricant in it after I have run it ? Lets say I ran it this
weekend and then didn't fire it up till next weekend would I have to put
a lubricator in the engine? if so what kind ?
One last thing , I believe if I run the engine and cut the fuel line to the carb
the engine will be pretty much free of gas for a couple weeks or so. I guess
my question is, what if i ran the engine till it was out of gas, would I then have
to fill it up a little and then pull the fuel line to make SURE it is out of gas ? Its
a new engine and I dont wanna hurt her, thanks again.
John
PS. It will be a weekend to weekend running, and I guess I need to know
what tricks or things I should look out for since it wont be running every other
day. Thanks again guys.
work on a OS .15 glow engine? And if everytime I run my engine, do
I put any kind of lubricant in it after I have run it ? Lets say I ran it this
weekend and then didn't fire it up till next weekend would I have to put
a lubricator in the engine? if so what kind ?
One last thing , I believe if I run the engine and cut the fuel line to the carb
the engine will be pretty much free of gas for a couple weeks or so. I guess
my question is, what if i ran the engine till it was out of gas, would I then have
to fill it up a little and then pull the fuel line to make SURE it is out of gas ? Its
a new engine and I dont wanna hurt her, thanks again.
John
PS. It will be a weekend to weekend running, and I guess I need to know
what tricks or things I should look out for since it wont be running every other
day. Thanks again guys.
#2
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From: Up north,
ND
first of all, glow, not gas. (as in gasoline) they require glow fuel, not pump gas.
that is an OK price, although if you have have a hobby shop locally it would be the same or maybe cheaper. (there was $12 shipping on that!) after run oil is fairly hotly debated, but IMHO if you are going to be running in the next month or less it doesn't usually pay. If you plan on storing it for a season then add plenty of after run. what do you have this engine in? the most important thing is to read up and follow proper break in. this is essential! you can destroy an engine in 15 minutes or less if you don't follow the instructions.
that is an OK price, although if you have have a hobby shop locally it would be the same or maybe cheaper. (there was $12 shipping on that!) after run oil is fairly hotly debated, but IMHO if you are going to be running in the next month or less it doesn't usually pay. If you plan on storing it for a season then add plenty of after run. what do you have this engine in? the most important thing is to read up and follow proper break in. this is essential! you can destroy an engine in 15 minutes or less if you don't follow the instructions.
#3
Senior Member
John,
First of all, you did not state if it was an aero, or a car.
It is for sure a tapered-bore engine, which needs to be broken-in as described in [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Tapered%2DBore_Engine_Break%2Din_%2D_Upgraded/m_1850473/tm.htm]this thread[/link].
Read it carefully.
Running the engine dry at the end of the day is good practice.
You must use fuel that contains plenty of [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS627&P=ML]Castor oil[/link] and after running the engine dry, put some [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL391&P=RF]After-Run oil[/link] in it and spin it for a second with the starter, or flip it over several times, to circulate the AR on all the steel surfaces.
This will make sure no rust forms. You can use equivalent products; not only those I linked.
Never leave raw fuel in the engine, since the methanol is hygroscopic (attracts moisture) and the nitro in the fuel creates nitric acid; both make the steel parts in the engine rust.
First of all, you did not state if it was an aero, or a car.
It is for sure a tapered-bore engine, which needs to be broken-in as described in [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Tapered%2DBore_Engine_Break%2Din_%2D_Upgraded/m_1850473/tm.htm]this thread[/link].
Read it carefully.
Running the engine dry at the end of the day is good practice.
You must use fuel that contains plenty of [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS627&P=ML]Castor oil[/link] and after running the engine dry, put some [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL391&P=RF]After-Run oil[/link] in it and spin it for a second with the starter, or flip it over several times, to circulate the AR on all the steel surfaces.
This will make sure no rust forms. You can use equivalent products; not only those I linked.
Never leave raw fuel in the engine, since the methanol is hygroscopic (attracts moisture) and the nitro in the fuel creates nitric acid; both make the steel parts in the engine rust.
#4
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My Feedback: (3)
I add a bit of Klotz to each gallon of fuel. I don't use after run oil since I dont see the need in it. I check the inside of my engines from time to time and they are fine. If you live in a humid & cool enviroment , then maybe but thats just me.
#5
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From: Picayune, MS
Well to answer your questions:
Yes that kit will work on an OS .15.
Dont know about how much it is, but like cratger said, you may find the components cheaper.
If you are going to be running the engine once a week or so, afterrun oil is not needed. Just run it dry. But afterun oil will not hurt anything either.
Yes that kit will work on an OS .15.
Dont know about how much it is, but like cratger said, you may find the components cheaper.
If you are going to be running the engine once a week or so, afterrun oil is not needed. Just run it dry. But afterun oil will not hurt anything either.



