trentos

I recently put a new piston and liner in this Enya, and ever since wheneva i pull vertical. it leans right off then it goes to an idol like state untill im bak on the down line. ive cheked everything possible, double backed clunk, or any leaks in the fuel tube.

Im willing to try anything...please help...

trent

DarZeelon

Trent,


...Did you try opening the main fuel needle more?

Make sure the fuel lines are as short as practically possible and that break-in has been completed as per [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1850473/anchors_1850473/mpage_1/key_break%252Din%252Ctapered%252Dbore/anchor/tm.htm#1850473]this thread[/link] (ONLY if it is a tapered bore ABC/AAC, you did write 'piston and liner'...).

It must be adjusted by opening the main needle so the engine runs rich at full throttle, lifting the model nose straight up (have someone hold the model in this attitude), closing the needle to find the peak RPM and richening it 150 RPM.

If it cannot be made to run rich, or dies off despite of the rich initial condition, maybe the fuel pressure is insufficient.

downunder

Actually I believe this engine uses a cast iron piston so please DON'T use the instructions in the link above. It sounds like the new piston/liner hasn't been run in and it's overheating badly causing the sagging then some cooling off as it comes back down and unloads the prop. To check if it's cast iron, cut a small strip from one of those flexible fridge magnets and put it on top of the piston through the exhaust port. If it sticks, it's iron. If it's iron it needs a lot of tender running in (hopefully it's not too late).

DarZeelon

As I wrote; If it is ABC/AAC tapered-bore...

I further emphasized this in the previous post.

If it is a lapped cast-iron piston/steel sleeve set, this technique is all wrong and a multiple very rich, very short runs method, with complete cooling between runs, should be used.

The head should be warm and touchable; not scalding hot, during the entire break-in procedure.

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Another consideration, does this engine require Castor oil? I have observed what you discribed in a K & B sportster engine with NO Castor Oil in the Syn. fuel. It actually squeeked until a Castor based fuel was introduced It was nearly new at the time. The Castor Oil solved the problem.........

downunder

Yes Dar, I saw your disclaimer before you changed it to bold print and I merely pointed out that I'm sure it's not ABx and a method to determine if it was cast iron. It wasn't intended as a criticism of you continually promoting your break in thread but as advice for what I think is the problem.

Gizmo has a point though. If it's a cast iron piston (and could trentos or someone please use a magnet to confirm this?) then some castor is definitely a good idea. The latest thinking is that 25% all castor isn't necessary anymore for modern cast iron pistons but 22% should be considered a minimum with at least 10% of that being castor. Use a fuel like this and run it in properly and it'll probably never wear out

DarZeelon

Brian,


If only I could get paid every time someone reads that ABx break-in thread.....

I entered it because most people would just do it wrong. For the same reason, I am promoting it.
I did not take this as criticism.


I went through the web, looking for some kind of description for this engine.
I couldn't find one... Although you are probably right about the construction if this engine.

downunder

I knew there'd be something in SSW about them.
This is a quote from one of the posts in there from dennis.

" The 2 Enya 40SS examples that I have are NOT ABC. They are both superbly fitted iron/steel set up.
Instructions are quite specific on running them in with a rich mixture during the 1st hour. with a normal 2-3 hours till fully broken in. Oil is never to be less then 20% with castor/or high quality synthetic."

And finishes with
"For any person that just wants a motor that they can run almost a lifetime with very few problems after the long break in ,these are worlds better then any OS in terms of finish,fit, longevity, and performance. And they are available."

trentos

Ok thanx for the advice, i actually run 2 1/2% Castor oil in my mixture, but that is also mixed with Cool Power aswell.
Just to let u know this is my fuel mixture:
5% Nitro
2 1/2% Castor Oil
17 1/2% Cool Power
75% Methanol

yeh i really didnt give it enough time to run in now i think about it. Actually 2 days after i posted that thread i orded a Vmax 52 for my profile, it has all the power I need, but i will fit the Enya 40ss in another model.
And also the day after i installed the new piston and liner i had the motor in the air 1st flight without a run-in, that normally is my run-in. thanx for the advice I shall giv it a few runs on the ground with it runing rich.

Thanx again yours ,trent,

DarZeelon

Trentos,


I believe Brian would agree that for an iron piston, steel sleeve engine, you must use a lot more than 2.5% Castor oil.

Over half of the total 20% oil should be Castor, for the life of your engine, if you want it to have any life.

downunder

Yep, I'd definitely agree. If it was my engine I wouldn't use less than 20% total with at least half castor. Running in times for the old Enyas has always been very long and I can't see that they'd use cheaper materials in the latest ones. But they last almost forever

Ram Jet

When I asked Ken Enya about using my fuel (Sig 20% nitro 20% caster/Klotz for break-in of my new .40 he replyed "25% lubricant". He also said my fuel was fine after break-in. I assume 10% nitro and 25% fuel for break-in. He said 20% and 20% is fine after break-in. I will run 10% 20% after break-in.

FYI.

Bill