Hi,
I'm currently building a 60 size pattern plane (Killer Chaos kit) and looking for an engine.
My budget is pretty limited now, so I can afford up to $150 on the engine (used will be just fine).
Any suggestions?
Would adding a tuned pipe help performance?
Can each engine work with a tuned pipe? or, there are only a few brands that support it?

Any information will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
OG.

OG....I am a Kaos lover from way back, I have two Killers waiting in the pile.
The Killer uses a side mounted engine which is good. If you want killer
performance for not a lot of money....get the Tower .75. It comes with
a tuned muffler already. I have been running them since they first came out.
I call them the "best kept one hundred dollar secret in r/c."

FBD.

Thanks for the advice and the pictures [8D]
OG.

Ditto

I got 2 of them. Both run VERY strong. Just as light as a .61 engine--and BIG power advantage over a .61

I did have a couple problems with my first .75 After about a gallon--the front bearing went out, and siezed. I disassembled the engine and discovered the problem. I called TH and told them about the problem. I even told them I had it disassembled on the bench. They didn't even blink. TH sent me a new crank, and both front and rear bearings. Free of charge, and free shipping. I had the parts in about 4 or 5 days.

Then about 2 gallons later--the low-speed needle vibrated out and the engine went lean in flight. I deadsticked in. I called TH and they sent me a low-speed needle free of charge. I had the needle in about 4 or 5 days.

I think it was just a freak thing with my first engine. I don't usually have problems with glow engines. IMO--ANY glow engine from ANY manufacturer could have spit a bearing. Just a fluke thing, and TH sent the parts right away. So I got no problems.

No other problems with that engine. It still runs VERY strong after lots of fuel through it. It's mounted in my LT-40. It's a heavily modified LT-40 with taildragger gear, flaps, float mount. It's my knock-around fun plane for relaxing days when I don't want to scare myself.[:-]

My other TH .75 engine has been a powerhouse since day 1. No problems at all. It's mounted in a 40 size 3D plane that weighs 5.5 pounds. Nice vertical[&:]. I run 5% Omega fuel and a 13-5 Pro Zinger or a 14-4W Zinger. It's mounted inverted with tank on the CL of the carb, and an on-board glow driver from RamTek. FLawless setup. Never a hiccup or a deadstick.

For $95--you can't beat it. If your a TH Super Saver Club Member--then you get a 4yr warrenty. Normal warrenty is 2yrs.

Most 61s today come in a 90 sized case so you get the weight and bulk without the power of the 90. Check carefully before purchasing and maybe consider a 75. K&B Twister is known to be in a smaller case.

FBD,
I got the TH .75, installed it on the plane. Last weekend went and ran it for the first time...

I had to deal with a fuel tank issue first and once this was cleared up, I started the engine.
As the needle valve was too open the engine got flooded after a few turns. I had to get the fuel out, lean it quite a bit, and try again.

It started up and worked with a great sound

I followed the break-in procedure described in the manual and then was ready for the test flight.
The flight went okay (considering the wind gusts that appeared from nowhere as soon as the plane was airborne) and the plane landed safly.

I checked the engine afterwards and noticed that the muffler's outlet cap is rotated to a different angle than the original one...
I tried to tighten the screw and the nut but it seems to rotate again in every flight... []

Any ideas/suggestion as of how to prevent it from moving? [sm=confused.gif]


Another question I have is on the fuel tank size:
I was able to fit in a 12 oz. tank. In the break in process, I was surprised to find out how long (well over 10 min.) can the engine run (full throttle) until consuming the entire tank...
What is your experience?

Thanks again for this advice, some skeptic members at my field had changed their mind (w.r.t TH .75 engines) after closely watching what I was doing
OG.

Since you are referring to the outlet cap on your muffler being loose and rotating, I am assuming this is a two piece muffler, correct? I had this same problem on both my Evolution engines, and here's an easy fix... take the muffler apart and run a fine bead of high temp RTV sealant around where the two halves meet. put it back together, put the screw back in, and put blue Locktite on the screw and nut. I did this on both my mufflers, and havent had a single problem with either one since.

It ROCKS! Is the motion carried?

I cured the muffler tip twisting problem permanantly with a couple stubby pop-rivets.

FBD.

I tried that idea and this indeed, solves the problem.
The next issue I need to deal with now is - I have oil leaking from the muffler (where the caps are attached to the main pipe)...
I am thinking to remove the rivets, put a high temp RTV and put new rivets in. I hope that this would work.
I got 400 deg. F (205 deg. C) RTV - would that be good enough?

Also, I read somewhere on RCU, that people recommend (for TH .75) not to use the muffler gasket at all - just to install the muffler as is. What is your opinion on that?

Thanks again,
OG.

I have this GMS engine that has the muffler just like the Tower....it leaked at
the seams real bad. I took it apart and used this high temp silicon. It takes
more heat than the red or the blue high temp silicon....in fact, it is made to
use on exhaust manifolds without the use of a gasket. Now, that's high temp.

These aluminum headers don't use a gasket....just the 598B silicon rubber. [8D]

FBD.