davealv

My Feedback: (10)

Hello Club Magnum,
I have a Magnum 1.20FS, I just started it up the other day for the first time to break it in. The problem I have is, during fueling the tank the carb filled up with fuel and floods. The tank is just a little higher than the carb, engine is mounted inverted on a GP Ryan STA-M. Moving the tank lower if it fits will put it lower in the fuse, I'll have to make longer fuel lines. Will this cause fuel problem. If any one could give me some advice, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

Use a remote fueler. When you plug in and fuel the plane, it shuts off
fuel to the carb, and only allows the fuel to go to the tank. This eliminates
the flooding. I have a Magnum 1.20 in a Dragon Lady with the fueler.

FBD.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

----------------


Put your fuel tank at the proper height (centerline even with spraybar, or up to 3/8ths inch below) and use a hemostat (surgical clamp) to block the fuel line after filling up. Release the hemostat when ready to fly.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

Here is another of my planes with an inverted engine, a two cycle. You
can see the fueler and the lines. Some Guys use hemoststs to cut off
the flow of fuel....I don't recommend it. I don't ever, ever, pinch my
fuel lines like that.

But then, you won't see me at the fielsd wrestling with a plane that
won't run right because the fuel line has holes in it.

FBD.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

The hemostat trick worked all through the Seventies and the early Eighties when used by me and hundreds of other pattern fliers without a hitch. Some folks worry too much.

Those fueler valves are what you should worry about. They ruin more engines by causing lean runs than all of the ham fisted newbies combined.

IronCross

Like FD said... Mount the fueler higher then the tank also if you can... This has worked great for me on a couple of planes where lowering the tank wasn't an easy option

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

----------------


Wait until a piece of crap keeps the valve slightly open and you fry an engine from a lean run.

IronCross

I have had a peice of "crap" jam up the fueler valve a couple times... Usually a peice of flash from the tank,, Never heard of anyone blowing an engine because of it though... If it is jamed open and you manage to start the engine fuel wsill come squirting out the fueler... This is a clue for most folks that there is something wrong long before the engine burns up... Just a matter of taking it apart and cleaning it up...
On the other hand I can't count the times I have punctured the fule line when clamping it off to refuel.. This is the main reason I went from dots to the fueler valve... I have never regretted it... Especially with cowled engines..

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

I've been using the fuelers for about 18 years. I did have one go bad after
about 15 years in my old Cub. It probably would have lasted longer, had
I not let it get so dirty, and then forced the fueler nozzle into it.

If the fueler isn't shutting off properly, fuel will be leaking out of it. This is not
too hard to spot is you have decent vision. A leaning running engine isn't hard
to spot either. I've never seen or heard of an engine being "ruined" by a remote
fueler either, but you know how it goes....if you read it on the Internet....it
must be so.

I also use a filter between the tank and the fueler valve to eliminate contamination
from the tank getting to the fueler valve....high tech stuff. I have a filter on my
fueling line from the fuel can as well. I always give the outside of the remote
valve a little squirt of fuel before I insert the fueling nozzle to rinse away any
dust or dirt. The remote fueler will last forever, if you keep dirt out of it.

FBD.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

----------------


I have never had a hemostat ruin a piece of fuel line and I used hemostats for years and years.

I'm performance oriented. Unnecessary weight, like fueler valves and fuel filters are part of the problem, not part of the solution. To each his own.

IronCross

I always use filters... Nothing worse then standing in 100 plus heat, sweat in your eyse trying to tear down and clean a dirty carburator... [8D]... And yes I have filters in my fuel can etc... I always rinse out my tanks before installing them with old fuel..
Still I get that occasional peice of flash off of the inside of the fuel tanks... Brand does not seem to matter.. Hemostats around here are natorious for putting holes in fuel lines.. Have found however that shrink tubing on the ends helps considerably..

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I use sintered bronze fuel tank pickup clunks. Never get any fuel tank slivers through that. My hemostats are very old and smooth. Some of the newer stuff may be sharper and cause problem. Nothing a little work with a file won't cure. There's a million ways to do things the right and wrong ways. Glad yours works for you.

sctcrash

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for your help everyone, engine ran great with high temp silicone replacing the gasket between my intake and my head.

THANKS!!

R.C. ROB

hi club magnum. I need some help with A magnum 1.08. I instaled it in a CMPro 300s .90 size 65" wing. when I test ran it in the compleated plane it sounded great with good idle and good top end but one click one way or the other on high end needle would loose rpm. verry touchey. it sounded like it had plenty of power to fly but when it gained air speed the moter would loose all power. I tried a little richer and leaner. nothing seems to help. has anybody had this problem.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

It sounds like you might have a pressure problem (or lack of it) from
the fuel tank. Also make real sure the carb is sealed to the crankcase.

Check those fuel lines.

FBD.

mr.scale

My Feedback: (4)

HI club magnum:
I'm frustrated on a engine choice my pics are O.S.160 with a VP perry pump and a slimline pitts stile muffler( around $350 bucks the whole deal)
or a Magnum XL-180RFS 4-Strocke for the same price can anyone tell me if the magnum will it be a good and reliable 3-d engine on a 9.5 dry or 12.5 flying weight 29%Giles 202 by ultra rc (www.ultra-rc.com) I already have an engine on it but it has been a pain in the neck to the untrusty point. The flying weight of my plane as with engine and all and all, is 13pounds 6oz.
thanks Fernando

boggey090

Well, This is very interesting, I question the breaking in procedure, weather conditions, humidity mainly, and whether the low idle was adjusted. I noticed very early in my flying that the Magnum is spin off the OS engine, just a diferrent name. I fly Mags and STs have never bought a new OS, why? Get with a good engine flyer and you may get it in the air.[&:]

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

Just another $.02 on Magnum. I thought they were cheap motors, I ran into a deal for Local Residents where H/P was located. I walked in and they had a in store special only Mag .52 4 stroke $99.99,, I bought 2 one for myself and the other for my son. I am stuck on Saito and they are great motors. So given I had this cheap motor I installed it on a .40 size cub that was converted from Electric to Glow by adding Ply bulkheads to fill the holes where those nasty batteries fit. After adding all the extra weight in wood I mounted the Mag .52 Well that was about 7 or 8 years ago. There must be a bizillion flight hrs on the Mag. 52 in the cub and I don't know how many flat spins both upright and inverted not to mention snap rolls. I finally bought a ring to install in the mag. when I needed a fuel nipple for another motor that parts aren't available for any more. The Mag. 52 didn't really need anything. The Mag. 52 went through Katrina with our home flooded and the Mag. 52 inches above the water line with humidity 100% for I don't know how long. I put it in the attic while we rebuild our home from the floor up. I pulled out the cub 2 months ago for my "break in flights" from not having flown since Katrina. I flew 6 flights on the cub and heard the Mag. 52 sag out. I landed and it would not hold needle valve setting nor turn peak rpm. So I figured it had finally given it's all after the bizillion hrs. I took the bird home pulled the Mag and looked at the valves. A little loose since I had never set them out of the box. So I adjusted them and looked further. What to my surprise the fuel filted did it's job and was plugged. I replaced the fuel filter and installed the Mag back into the cub. So what the heck,, start it up. Well danged now it turned 500 rpm more than new and this was after richen it up. SO without the new ring I put the bird in the air this weekend. Power was great, but almost lost the bird due to servo going bad and given a hardover. I did manage to land ok and changed servos. Then I got to thinking,, given a Cheap motor for $99.99 over a bizillion flights and NEVER a deadstick. Not too bad for a Cheap motor. I would not hesitate to buy another. Saito,, great motors,, but they are a bit $$$.. Jim

skiman762

Sound like my 52's
there a big differance between cheap and a value
I beat my maggie 52 every chance I get but she just keeps on keepin on
got a love um

mr.scale

My Feedback: (4)

how much HP the magnum 180 has and can it be hand flip started?

SigMan

My Feedback: (21)

mr scale , go to RCU's engine reviews, at the top of the page, there you can view and compare engines side by side, a very cool feature that helps alot in making engine choices, it has for me anyway.

mr.scale

My Feedback: (4)

I already did that but there's no h/p readings on all magnum's

Ectomorph26

First gas engine I ever bought was a Magnum .40 on sale for $49.99 non-ABC or anything special. I don't use any fancy fuel tank setups, or special mufflers, or fill valves. I just pull the hose off the carb and muffler fill it till it squirts out the muffler hose, and start it up.

Never had a problem with it starting or running. I don't even need a electric starter for it just hook up the glow driver, and flip it about twice and it'll fire off dead cold. No fuel filters or anything and I've never had any in flight or on the ground problems with it. Other than running it slap out of fuel in the air. lol.

I don't know how it rates for power but I have it on a SigKavalier that way overweight and it flies nice. Going to slap it in my new H9 PTS which feels like it weighs half of what the Kavalier does. I'm sure it'll zing it around the field with no problems. Heck I don't use any after run oil or anything like that. It gets run hard and throw in the shed. Had left it there for a year while I couldn't afford to fly. Pulled it out the other day, and tanked it up with year old 10% nitro. Had to put a new glow plug in it but it fired right up and a little tuning and it was humming as usual.

Like has been said I guess everyone has had problems with good engines, and some have no problems out of bad engines. Then there is always quality control which is an issue with any product. You might but one Saito and have nothing but problems. Buy another identical Saito and it'll run like a top. Just a matter of 1 out of every X engines is going to be a lemon. It doesn't matter if it's servo's, engines, cars, everything is like that.

I remember a guy at the field had I think it was a Magnum 4-stroke and he never could get it to run right. He bad mouthed the engine like a dog. Finally he got it flying and about 2 circuits and the muffler fell off as it was loose. Not wobbly loose the kind of loose where it feels tight untill you actually put a wrench on it and turn.

So anytime an engine has problems there's numerous reasons it could be having problems. Also if your gonna use hemostats to cut off the fuel flow I recommend taking a couple of pieces of fuel tubing and sliding it over the tips.

benin

HELLO CLUB MAGNUM

benin

Hello Club Magnum

OS 61 FX or Magnum 91 four for Funtana 40?

Horse Power magnum 91 is possible to know?


benin