1QwkSport2.5r

Hey there Bob! What parts are you looking for?

spaceworm

Maybe try Enya? Enya Metal Products.mht

noisy

thanks spaceworm will look them up.....

noisy

hey guys...got my parts list from ken enya today..big ....thanks to those who helped me achieve this....bob

animal53

I'm rebuilding my R1204C after the prop nut came loose. Can anyone point me in the right direction with a "How to reassemble " guide?
I got great parts service from Steve Webb (SWM Ltd) and Bill Jensen (BJ's Model Engine Service). No reply from Enya Japan but it's early days.
Love my Enyas

gregrudd

Hi all

Has anyone purchased the Enya 20 TV recently? And are they avail? (I have sent mail to the sales email address and I have yet to get a response.)

And if so what is it like as I am interested in putting one into a scratch built Pilot QB20H.

I would think that this engine would have suited the QB20H back in the day as a trainer.

Thanks in advance

-greg

sharp333

My Feedback: (11)

Found an Enya parts package saying "Conversion Nut for .15-,19 enginecan anyone tell me the purpose on this long nut?

Lou Crane

Sharp,

I've seen conversion nuts for adapting spinners to engines like the ENYAs "of a certain age." The Japanese threads were different, and in my parts of the world, rare...

Many spinners still use a variation of the 1940s-50s Froom mounting. A short threaded 'rod' connects a separate tapped front piece, shaped to blend into front of the conical shell exterior.

That front cap was usually drilled across its cone, so it could be tightened using a drill size piece of wire as a 'wrench.' That threaded length screws into what is actually a union nut, and was usually tapped a standard thread like the 1/4-28 on most US engines, and several other-nation engines. Many now use standard metric threads like 6mm-something, or 7mm-something.

The aft end of the union nut is tapped to fit the engine shaft threads, and the nut becomes the actual prop nut. Smoother looking than the nostrils many spinners today use to allow access to the (usually Allen) bolts mounting the spinner to its own backplate. The Froom spinners were "spun" thin aluminum mounted as above. The 'big end' cone met a thin backplate, stepped to hold the cone firmly aligned.

Very nice, light and secure. Soft enough to protect the engine if... When Froom stopped selling them, VECO continued for several years, and after that, I believe K&B kept them going several more years.Today, the hand labor involved would have two main problems - cost of skilled labor, and availability of skilled labor at any cost for a repetitive, not very stimulating job which nevertheless requires precision.

Tru-turn spinners aren't cheap, in either sense. Understand that a bit better now?

Enjoy!

sharp333

My Feedback: (11)

Lou: Many thanks for the detailed explanation. It now makes sense. I know this kind of spinners.
If they had put spinner adapter nut it would be obvious.
anyway,I learned a new thing today.
thanks

gregrudd

UPDATE: Well I have procured a 19-VI which was described as having good compression. I have got on to Ken Enya and procuring a muffler and a new piston/cylinder if required to have on hand as a spare. Yeah I know.

Only downside if you can call it that is that I have to use pure castor ;-)

I am amazed Ken hasn't tried to use the term "Engines for life" in Enya advertising. I am sure that if Ken Enya let the fans redo the English website sales would pick up again rather quickly. While coming back into the hobby I would still bet on an Enya ahead of a TT when it comes to longevity, so it could be argued that the higher up front cost of an Enya evens out when compared to the cheap Chinese OS clones.

sharp333

My Feedback: (11)

4 stroke cylinder removal.
how to remove the cylinder on a Enya 4 stroke 80 engine? on 2 strokes this is quite simple: I use a piece of hard plastic, put a propeller, block the exhaust port with the plastic piece and push the cylinder out with the piston, Quick and easy, no damage to anything
But 4 strokes don't have any port to use this trick.....How to push it out ??

gregrudd

Going by Enya's FB page it looks like some interesting kit is going to be released this year.
The SS25EX PL looks like its going to be an ABC

https://www.facebook.com/enyaengine/?fref=photo

Stoneweapon

Warm it up a little bit with a heat gun and it will loosen up enough to push it out with a piece of wood.

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

New ENYA retro glow .35 and SS .25

gregrudd

In RC version it should be interesting.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I just found this thread and think it great. ENYAs are great engines. I have a old NIB ENYA .46 FC II in my collection I plan to use in a Dornier D1 designed by Mike Hawkins. That was the infamous biplane that kill Willi Reinhard in 1918 and put Hermann Goering in command of Jagsgeschwader 1 (Richthofen's Flying Circus) to finish out the war.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Enyaphyles, today I picked up a little used Enya .80, it appears to be an early Version S7001. The rocker shaft is mounted in two cast stands directly over top of the fifth head bolt. The cam cover is basically a flat plate with no cam shaft bearings in it. It's the first Enya I've seen where the rear head bolt did not hold the rocker shaft in place. Pictures in a while. Any additional knowledge will be appreciated. Thanks, Dave

1QwkSport2.5r

Dave - my 60-4C is the same way. The rear head bolt holds the head on only; the rocker stand is held in by two screws that straddle that head bolt. You can barely see it in my picture.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Tim, question, do your rocker cover screws do double duty, bot h holding the rocker cover on and locking the rocker shaft in place. My Rocker cover bolts have O-rings on them. The bearings are inch bearings.

1QwkSport2.5r

No they do not, Dave. The rocker shaft in my .60 is locked in place with grub screws. My rocker cover screws are very short and as such have no room for o-rings.

The bearings in the .60 are the same as the .80. They're essentially the same engine albeit some slightly different parts (i.e. Piston, ring, cylinder, and a few other parts) and the crankcase bored out for the larger cylinder and engine model designation casting.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks again, yep, I just discovered all that reading Peter Chinn's test of the .80. I'll have to check mine out and see if there's room for grub screws and cover bolts, I'll bet mine should be the same as yours. I have the original instructions that came with it. No muffler, the pipe looks as if no muffler was ever mounted on it.
It's good to have an Enya on the toy shelf again.

1QwkSport2.5r

My .60 is an early model too. No muffler either - just a header. A guy at my flying field has an .80 too. I could tell it was an Enya from a mile away. That Enya "miss" is unmistakeable at low rpm.

My rocker cover screws only have about 4 threads that screw into the rocker stand. If your screws are longer, you would need to shorten those screws to use grub screws. Probably a "duh" statement there... That's what I would do if it were mine. Grub screws and short rocker cover screws.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I think the notched end of the rocker shaft will be easy, I'm pretty sure I have a couple of Saito throttle arm grub screws that are very short. As the Midas muffler man said, "I'll make it fit".

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Mr. Chinn mentions that in order to use the same crankshaft in the .80 they used slipper type pistons with the skirts trimmed down.

1QwkSport2.5r

Neat stuff! IIRC the R120-4c uses the same type of piston as well.