smithcreek

My Feedback: (25)

Flight report. A 16lb BUSA Phaeton 90 on floats flies just fine on an Enya 120-4C with a 15 x 7 APC prop. I picked up the plane on Craigslist, my first ARF and after a refurbishing, re-maidened it yesterday. Here's a picture as it's pulling back in to shore.

smithcreek

My Feedback: (25)

Does anyone know the size of the carb/intake manifold o-ring on the 120-4c (not R). I have the manual but it only gives a part number, not an actual size. My is shot and needs replacement.

CustomPC

Hi,

Is a pumped Enya 60XF II Al-Chro a decent engine?

Is it a revver or a torquer?

Would the pump be likely to cause issues on an brand new engine that's been in storage for many years?

Would it power a Great Planes Escapade .61 adequately?

EloyM

My Feedback: (194)

I think they only made six or so, but I sure could use an Enya .11 if you happen to have a spare one.
[email protected]

Kostas1

Looking good....

Mr Cox

I little late I guess but a 7x4-7x5 should be good, as the piston and cylinder are common to the other 09 engines as far as I know.

The Enya 11CX are still being made too, and then you get ABC technology.

earlwb

They show up on ebay from time to time.
But shtterman who specializes in Enya control line stuff can get the engine for you.
he has a store onEbay. www.ebay.com/itm/ENYA-09-IV-R-C-NIB-CURRENT-MODEL-/290514256539
I had bought parts to rebuild several engines from him already myself.
You can also buy direct from Enya if you like too.

downunder

No, terrible engine, not worth having, leave it alone, I wanna BID on it!

Just kidding, but if you're looking at what I saw it's actually an XF-III, it's just the instruction sheet that says XF-II. If you look carefully at the LH engine mount you can make out the III stamped there. Just for your peace of mind, I've already got one so don't really need another . Go for it, they're magnificent.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Enya fuel pumps are gear type mechanical fuel pumps and they do not rely upon fragile, time sensitive mylar or silicone diaphragms, as do OS and other manufacturers' pumps. Other than haviing to replace a common metric o-ring, no, it should not be problematic.

This is one of the strongest 10cc engines available and it is a revver. You might be surprised at just how much low end torque can be generated using this engine with a stretched tuned pipe.


Ed Cregger

CustomPC

Drats! You saw right through me

Truth be told i don't need it either, but every once in a while a rare gem appears on fleabay amongst all the chinese crap.

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

I acquired a 60's .29 TV-IV Special from an elderly gent, complete with additional high compression head, muffler assy, all paperwork and a box that still looked new. It is in very good cosmetic order, unmarked and unmolested, but the P/L fit is gone.

After 35 years I am thinking of getting back into stunt.

I emailed Ken Enya today ... two hours later ... reply, and yes, he can supply a new piston and liner set ... for under $30! Astonishing.

I have a lot of time for the engines and the people who make them. Can't wait to run it in again, the slow, patient way, using full castor lube fuel.

tiffitech

..good to know :-)

I got an 29-IV RC special (Model 5224) some weeks before. It was totally gummed up.
After som cleaning it appered as near new shiny engine, compression is very good too.
I only have one head, can you tell the difference of the high compression head to the normal
(in mm), I don't know what is mounted...

Kind Regards,

Holm

controlliner

I have two of the same 5224 .29's and when you lay both heads along side of each other (off the engine) you can see the difference in the depth of the combustion chamber. The HCH rests deeper into the liner than the LCH does.

tiffitech

You made my day!

How should it be done then, when you only have one head?

:-))

Regards,

Holm

earlwb

I looked through my stuff, but I didn't find my high compression head. But a standard head goes about 2.5mm deep into the cylinder.
The high compression head is more obvious that it goes in a little more deeply.

here is a pic of a standard compression head from one of myEnya .35 engines, the pic didn't quite show the 2.5mm depth very well.

downunder

The low compression head projects about 2.2mm into the cylinder while the HC head projects from 3.1 to 3.5mm depending on whether it's the plain bearing or the BB Special. The BB Special used the 3.5mm projection to give 9.5:1 compression as against 9:1 for the plain bearing. Low compression head was 7.5:1 compression.

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

Brian, like yourself I tend not to use Nitro in sports glow engines.

It seems logical for it to be preferable (in that case) to use the high compression head?

tiffitech

I've measured the head that's on my .29BB, it is approx 3.4 mm so it seems to be the HC Variant, Thanks Earl and downunder..




Kind Regards,

Holm

downunder

Yep, I'd definitely use the high compression head and I'd think it'd just as good for fuels up to maybe 10-15% nitro (for those who like to use nitro ). One day I have to get myself one of those Specials just so I can say I've got one .

1QwkSport2.5r

So I wanted to join the club, and bought this Enya 30SS (BB) engine. It is new and un-run. It came with 3 documents and what look like stickers in the original box. The casting work looks quite nice. It looks to have the airbleed carb on it, so this will be a first for me. I've only dealt with 2-needle automix carbs.



This was said to have been purchased at a hobby shop that was going out of business 5 years ago. I think it was a display piece since the outside is a little dusty.

The engine seems to be well oiled, and the bearings are silky smooth. Being that the engine isnt brand new off the shelf, I popped the head off to make sure the piston and liner are clean. I'm glad I did because I found some sort of debris stuck to the top of the piston. (there was no glow plug in it) I'll clean this out before running it. I snugged the head back down (I went light on the torque as to ensure the case doesnt get distorted) and checked the front housing screws. 3 were snug and 1 had stripped threads in the hole. I also found the supplied screws for the muffler were both bent. I want to replace the bent muffler screws and I suppose tapping the stripped hole one size bigger should be done. The bad screw is the bottom left looking at it from the front. So, my questions are: What is the size and pitch of the muffler screws and front cover screws? (They are socket head screws) Also, can anyone estimate when this engine was made?

I'm going to clean it up really nice and re-oil it and if the weather behaves, break it in sometime in the next week or two. Overall, I am really happy to have this engine. I look forward to hearing its song.

earlwb

That looks like a excellent runner to me. it is just itching to be used on something.

1QwkSport2.5r

I pulled the front cover off and found some dried up crusty reddish-brown oil all over the crank and inside of the crankcase. I'm soaking some of the engine parts in fuel right now to get that dried oily slime out and seal it up.

The piston to liner fit isnt as tight as I thought it was going to be. Thats okay though, this baby is gonna run real nice. I can feel it.

I think when I get the money to do it, I'm going to order 2 kits. 1- Bridie Krafty .60 (with TT .46 power) to learn on and a Sig Kobra (SS30) to go fast with. Chances are the Kobra will stay in the box until I can fly without crashing.. Just gotta work on convincing the wife I need them.

CustomPC

It will get better with some running after a build up of castor lines the cylinder sleeve.
The Enya SS engines with steel sleeve and cast iron piston are designed in a way that castor forms an integral part of the operation.

1QwkSport2.5r

I am certainly not complaining about the fit. I have some car engines that you can see light between the piston and liner at BDC with light shining through backplate (these engines are less than 2 gallons in and are asian sport engines). The Enya isnt like this. There is definitely a "snugness" to it 1/2 way towards TDC but its not one of those "so tight I need a heat gun to start it" sort of things.

I need to fix the front cover (stripped screw) and mount it on my test stand.

steve111

Like this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/vintage-E...d#ht_614wt_907