Club Enya
#2351
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...a%2080-4C.html
Hi NCRC,
Just realized you're in NC. This link is from Sceptre engine tests. When I said they were different I should have been more specific
and stated "the castings are the same except for the bore and the embossed 60 or 80 on the barrel.
Technically this is one of those deals where "they are actually the same except different"
Now for my issue, the holes don't appear to be a problem in the pixx however when thay are in front of you on the bench they
may look dffierent again. Let me know what your time line is and what you expect to charge for it.
Thanx,
Bob B.
Hi NCRC,
Just realized you're in NC. This link is from Sceptre engine tests. When I said they were different I should have been more specific
and stated "the castings are the same except for the bore and the embossed 60 or 80 on the barrel.
Technically this is one of those deals where "they are actually the same except different"
Now for my issue, the holes don't appear to be a problem in the pixx however when thay are in front of you on the bench they
may look dffierent again. Let me know what your time line is and what you expect to charge for it.
Thanx,
Bob B.
Last edited by PMracer; 03-06-2015 at 02:04 PM.
#2352
I was brave and started breaking in one of my Enya 15-IV's. 38F doesn't feel too bad for the first 20 minutes, but after almost an hour I had enough. LoL. Ran about 12-14oz of fuel through it. This one isn't very tight - in fact I had a hard time getting it started initially because the compression was low. The other new 15-IV I have is really tight. The third one I have has an hours worth of time on it and runs pretty good.
#2353
Here's a article by Clarence Lee.....
http://images.rcuniverse.com/forum/u...38/Xs57552.pdf
http://images.rcuniverse.com/forum/u...38/Xs57552.pdf
#2354
Hey Downunder - is there a write-up that you know of for the Enya 46-4C? I got one of these little jewels recently (older version with small bearings/front housing from the 40-4C) and wanted to find out what it'd take to make it a 46-4C II. Figured there'd have to be some reviews about this engine since it is supposed to be a pretty powerful engine. Just curious. Have to get the corrosion and rust completely removed from the inside of the crankcase before I run it.
#2355
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Tim, have you pilled the cam box yet, they rust really bad in there, between uses I pulled the carb mount bolt and injected Corrosion X in to the cam box. I still lost the cam drive pinion bearing.
#2356
I went searching for corrosion-x but nobody carries it around here it seems. I'll have to settle for venting the crankcase and using fogging oil for now. My 60-4C and R120-4C haven't rusted on me at all. The 60 I got new, the R120 I got gently used. Neither were rusty or corroded anywhere.
#2357
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I had it apart once - light surface rust on the cams, cam drive, and crank. Bearings were gritty, and some surface corrosion inside the crankcase. It looks to have been run once for a short time and put away wet. I gave the steel parts a short soak in evaporust and rinsed and reassembled. I've decided now though, to tear down again and clean up the crankcase inside better and soak the cams and other steel parts in evaporust for much longer. There was a lot of corrosion and rust - all minor surface stuff though. The bearings did smooth out considerably after soaking and cleaning.
I went searching for corrosion-x but nobody carries it around here it seems. I'll have to settle for venting the crankcase and using fogging oil for now. My 60-4C and R120-4C haven't rusted on me at all. The 60 I got new, the R120 I got gently used. Neither were rusty or corroded anywhere.
I went searching for corrosion-x but nobody carries it around here it seems. I'll have to settle for venting the crankcase and using fogging oil for now. My 60-4C and R120-4C haven't rusted on me at all. The 60 I got new, the R120 I got gently used. Neither were rusty or corroded anywhere.
Cheers,
Bill
#2358
I don't think the bearings are bad. After I cleaned and oiled everything initially, they cleaned right up and are smooth as silk almost. If I do have to replace bearings, I'll be finding a single source for all of my bearing needs. Boca is out due to outrageous pricing, RCBearings is out due to several wrong orders in a row, and the guy you told me about only deals with 4-strokes. I'm done with ordering from 4 different outfits to find the bearings I need at a good price and actually get what I order. If I get the 46-4C II parts, I'll need new crankshaft bearings anyway since the 46 II has larger bearings. I'm thinking it might be worth learning the bearing codes and ordering from a local outfit. Have to do some research.
#2359
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I don't think the bearings are bad. After I cleaned and oiled everything initially, they cleaned right up and are smooth as silk almost. If I do have to replace bearings, I'll be finding a single source for all of my bearing needs. Boca is out due to outrageous pricing, RCBearings is out due to several wrong orders in a row, and the guy you told me about only deals with 4-strokes. I'm done with ordering from 4 different outfits to find the bearings I need at a good price and actually get what I order. If I get the 46-4C II parts, I'll need new crankshaft bearings anyway since the 46 II has larger bearings. I'm thinking it might be worth learning the bearing codes and ordering from a local outfit. Have to do some research.
[email protected]. He'll provide you with a complete kit including a Bowman ring. By the way, loose the Enya ring. I have a brand new Enya 1.55 and the end gap was so large it would be fine for my 500cc Honda single motorcycle. My 1.55 has a Bowman ring that I gapped myself.
Just a suggestion,
Bill
#2360
If the bearings are not rough, not loose, and not falling apart after the first run, I won't replace them. As far as the ring goes - if it doesn't bed in and seal, I'll order a ring from Frank myself. I have a few other engines that need a backup spare ring for so I can combine ahipping that way.
Thanks for the info Bill. I really only want to deal with one bearing supplier that can get bearings for two strokes and four strokes and doesn't require me to get a "Kit". Sorry to be a jerk. Just been given the runaround too many times by too many companies. If I can't find one company to supply bearings for all of my engines, I'll quit RC and take up quilting.
Thanks for the info Bill. I really only want to deal with one bearing supplier that can get bearings for two strokes and four strokes and doesn't require me to get a "Kit". Sorry to be a jerk. Just been given the runaround too many times by too many companies. If I can't find one company to supply bearings for all of my engines, I'll quit RC and take up quilting.
#2362
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If the bearings are not rough, not loose, and not falling apart after the first run, I won't replace them. As far as the ring goes - if it doesn't bed in and seal, I'll order a ring from Frank myself. I have a few other engines that need a backup spare ring for so I can combine ahipping that way.
Thanks for the info Bill. I really only want to deal with one bearing supplier that can get bearings for two strokes and four strokes and doesn't require me to get a "Kit". Sorry to be a jerk. Just been given the runaround too many times by too many companies. If I can't find one company to supply bearings for all of my engines, I'll quit RC and take up quilting.
Thanks for the info Bill. I really only want to deal with one bearing supplier that can get bearings for two strokes and four strokes and doesn't require me to get a "Kit". Sorry to be a jerk. Just been given the runaround too many times by too many companies. If I can't find one company to supply bearings for all of my engines, I'll quit RC and take up quilting.
Cheers,
Bill
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Getting the kit makes the most sense, you only have to deal with one part number and it makes sense to replace them all while the engine is apart. Extreme views are not taken seriously by most folks.
#2364
Because I try to avoid the markups that come with middlemen. In the past two weeks I ordered bearings for 3 different engines from 4 different companies and not a single order was right. Pardon my frustration. I just don't want to have to deal with more people. I'd like one place to be the go-to for bearings and not rip me off. I can go to Frank Bowman myself for rings.
Dave - I'm not taken seriously by many people anyway, so my feelings are unhurt.
Dave - I'm not taken seriously by many people anyway, so my feelings are unhurt.
#2365
I take you plenty serious Tim. Any time I've ever had a question regarding glow engines you've been my go to guy. It would be quite nice to have a source like that, so please share if you happen upon one.
#2367
I have some contacts through a guy I used to work with that ordered bearings for our machines through a local company. I will be checking with them on Monday or Tuesday. If they work out, I'll post their info for sure.
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Sadly, most of what I know I read on RCU. I'm just a Midwest hunyuck with an unnatural fascination with miniature engines and spend way too much time talking about them online. LoL.
I have some contacts through a guy I used to work with that ordered bearings for our machines through a local company. I will be checking with them on Monday or Tuesday. If they work out, I'll post their info for sure.
I have some contacts through a guy I used to work with that ordered bearings for our machines through a local company. I will be checking with them on Monday or Tuesday. If they work out, I'll post their info for sure.
Cheers,
Bill
#2369
I was kinda kidding around.. I did a fair amount of online searching to rectify this engine bearing debacle... I never thought it'd be that hard to get 6 simple ball bearings. Of the half dozen commonly used sites, most of them didn't have every size I needed and the ones that did wanted $100 for the 6 bearings plus shipping. I think that is extreme. They were simple chrome steel bearings with phenolic ball retainers. My plan B was to buy bare crankcases that have bearings already in them for $10-15 on eBay and swap the other parts in.
#2371
What I meant by that post was in response to Steve and all I meant by that was I essentially post advice given by other people on this forum that I've read about. I own and run a bunch of engines and have learned a few things on my own but my experiences are meaningless to the guys that have been doing this much longer than I have because it's nothing that hasn't been addressed already. That doesn't sound right either, so I'll just quit. I didn't mean to offend you Bill, or anyone else.
#2372
The ceramic bearings were $7 cheaper than the steel ones from that same site. Figure that out.
Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 03-07-2015 at 02:22 PM.
#2373
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I was kinda kidding around.. I did a fair amount of online searching to rectify this engine bearing debacle... I never thought it'd be that hard to get 6 simple ball bearings. Of the half dozen commonly used sites, most of them didn't have every size I needed and the ones that did wanted $100 for the 6 bearings plus shipping. I think that is extreme. They were simple chrome steel bearings with phenolic ball retainers. My plan B was to buy bare crankcases that have bearings already in them for $10-15 on eBay and swap the other parts in.
As my mom would say "A word to the wise is sufficient."
Cheers,
Bill