earlwb

Fox stated they were out of parts and engines for everything. They had sold everything off. Since the model engine market was so soft and weak, they decided to not make any engines for the time being, at least for the foreseeable future. Since Fox manufactures a lot of other products they are continuing along that line. So it isn't like they have a lack of work or anything. Unfortunately, not enough people were buying the engines.

1QwkSport2.5r

For all the Fox fans... There's a bunch of Foxes for sale in the classifieds.

hsukaria

Yes, I have acquired a few Fox engines in the past year for very little money. Only one engine needed work, but the rest were great running for how little they cost. Even if I don't have enough planes to put them in, they are great to run on the bench and store away for the future.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I bought the .50.

carlgrover

Has anyone seen one of the very latest generation Fox engines for sale used with the new carb? I'm talking about the one that had a very find adjustment on the high speed needle. It had a hex on the end of it so you could adjust it with an allen wrench if you wanted to.

I bought a brand new one (.45) just before they quit making engines.



carl

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Carl, I believe that Earl has a couple of those carbs. I missed out on them also. Does your new .45 have one, Thanks, Dave

earlwb

Yes I have some of the new Fox carbs. I really like them too. I think they really came up with a winner with that new carb. Anyone that got a engine with the new carb or bought a new carb, should really like it too. I posted pics of it quite a while ago as well.

carlgrover

Yes. I got a .45 with that new carb on it. Very nice and it runs fantastic. The finish on the engine is also much better than on past versions.

I was hoping to find a NIB or slightly used one somewhere.



carl

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I just received a nice fairly clean Fox .50 with shiny clean bearings and great compression. Maybe I can give it a run tomorrow. It wears the EZ Just carb and the prop recommendation is new to me, maybe my first 50 instructions. It suggests an 11x6 or 10x7.

hsukaria

I purchased one of those new carbs. I have it on one of my older 45s. I wish I had bought more while they were available.

hsukaria

Is that too small or too big? I have been running 11x6 on a Super Tigre 11x6 for years. I also ran my Fox 45 on 11x6 prop with no problems.

1QwkSport2.5r

The .50 is a bit anemic on small props because the bore is so big and the ports in the liner have poor direction cut into them. Lower rpm/bigger props will be more ideal. Part of why they diesel pretty good. I think I got 13,500 on a 10x6 APC with the modified stock head button. My custom head button did better, but not much.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The 11x6 makes more sense to me, I've always run a 12x6 on my SuperTigre .51.

The Fox .50 as a Diesel is perfectly happy with a 12x7.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I've been changing some things on the Fox .50, I moved the throttle lever out from the carb as I do on most Fox's, I used a blind tap to deepen the muffler bolt holes, they're already deep enough to accept longer screws but the threads are not cut deep enough. Some of you may pick up on the fact the throttle spacer is the midrange adjuster for a Perry carb that got smashed, perfect fit for this job by counter sinking the inner end of the hole.

1QwkSport2.5r

Good Morning, Dave. What do you do/suggest to keep the MVVS muffler together? As predicted by Hsukaria, the back half of my MVVS muffler came loose on me. It looked as if the lip on the back half was really shallow - too shallow for the riveted collar to really hold it well. I'll post a picture shortly.

Hsukaria - I apologize if the last time we discussed this issue I doubted you saying it would come loose. At that time, it hadn't come loose yet.

1QwkSport2.5r

My once one-piece MVVS muffler that came loose on me. Many thanks to Dave for sending it to me - it is a really nice muffler that works very well. What can I do to put it back together and keep it from coming apart on me again?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Tim can the back half be rotated a little and then drill and tap for 6-32 x.125 screws to hold it together. Something to think about anyway.

1QwkSport2.5r

I think it could be rotated, but because the inner baffle/cone tapers down so quickly, I'm not sure the screws would hold. The collar that's riveted on that is supposed to what appears to "grab" the small lip on the outer shell doesn't have much to grab onto. I might have to drill the rivets out and see if the front half is the same or not.

spaceworm

"If it is supposed to move, but doesn't, use WD-40. If it moves, but shouldn't, use duct tape".

Seriously, how about a good cleaning and use JB Weld?
At this end of the muffler, heat should not be a problem?
Good luck.

earlwb

I would likely clean it good and use aluminum solder and that would take care of it. Aluminum solder is like brazing but for aluminum.
You use a stainless steel brush on it just before you solder it up. But the stainless steel brush has to have never been used on anything but aluminum only.

1QwkSport2.5r

The outer rear shell is too thin to solder - at least not something I'm willing to take a chance on. I think I'll drill and tap the cast section and use short screws locktited and RTV the seam.

earlwb

What I do is poke holes into a empty soft drink can or beer can. Then I practice filling it in and plugging the hole back up. It is just like some of the videos they have posted online about doing it. It is amazingly easy once you get it going OK. Anyway, it is a good way to get used to using aluminum solder and how to use it.

1QwkSport2.5r

Thanks for the tip. I'll consider trying that.

hsukaria

My experience with the larger MVVS muffler was that the second chamber (the rear can) came loose and the rivet holes enlarged somewhat. I tried JB Weld, but that broke loose again. I finally left it off, there was not much difference except maybe a little more noise. If you want to, you can run it without the second chamber and see if you like it (it gives a unique sound). Otherwise, Earl's suggestion would be the ultimate solution. I suspect tapping the holes and screwing the can back on might cause the holes in the can to elongate like what happened on mine.

BTW, sometime after I bought my MVVS muffler from Pe Reivers (RIP), I noticed that his website was showing a newer design that might have addressed this issue with the rear chamber coming off.

the pope

double post