OS engines users Club
#501
My Feedback: (2)
RE: OS engines users Club
I haven't started the engine yet - I thought it might be a fruitless act due to the lack of compression. I haven't tried the feeler guage, but I have been able to feel the valves 'rock' slightly at TDC on the Compression stroke. I believe that the valves are closing securely. I did lap them a bit, about 10 strokes using a mixture of Bon-Ami and Marvel Mystery Oil to make a light paste. The mating areas appear shiny all around on the valves and the seats.
I have to make the time to start her up... maybe Friday.
Bob
I have to make the time to start her up... maybe Friday.
Bob
#502
RE: OS engines users Club
ORIGINAL: rrengineer
Holy Crap! Ebay item no. 170714722131[X(]
Holy Crap! Ebay item no. 170714722131[X(]
I have a new unopened package of a ACE Littlest Stick I was going to build up one day. But now I am afraid to as I saw someone wanting $250.00 for one like that unopened.
#503
RE: OS engines users Club
ORIGINAL: N1EDM
I haven't started the engine yet - I thought it might be a fruitless act due to the lack of compression. I haven't tried the feeler guage, but I have been able to feel the valves 'rock' slightly at TDC on the Compression stroke. I believe that the valves are closing securely. I did lap them a bit, about 10 strokes using a mixture of Bon-Ami and Marvel Mystery Oil to make a light paste. The mating areas appear shiny all around on the valves and the seats.
I have to make the time to start her up... maybe Friday.
Bob
I haven't started the engine yet - I thought it might be a fruitless act due to the lack of compression. I haven't tried the feeler guage, but I have been able to feel the valves 'rock' slightly at TDC on the Compression stroke. I believe that the valves are closing securely. I did lap them a bit, about 10 strokes using a mixture of Bon-Ami and Marvel Mystery Oil to make a light paste. The mating areas appear shiny all around on the valves and the seats.
I have to make the time to start her up... maybe Friday.
Bob
#505
My Feedback: (2)
RE: OS engines users Club
Thanks, Earlwb.
Actually, I replaced the ring as part of the overhaul. The ring seat was actually pretty clean. The old ring wasn't stuck either. There was a modest improvement in compression with the new ring, but not much. It doesn't look like I will get the engine started tomorrow. Hopefully by the end of the weekend, though.
I sure would like to use that engine - I have a project all spec'd out for it if I can get it to run strongly and reliably.
Bob
Actually, I replaced the ring as part of the overhaul. The ring seat was actually pretty clean. The old ring wasn't stuck either. There was a modest improvement in compression with the new ring, but not much. It doesn't look like I will get the engine started tomorrow. Hopefully by the end of the weekend, though.
I sure would like to use that engine - I have a project all spec'd out for it if I can get it to run strongly and reliably.
Bob
#506
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Central California,
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RE: OS engines users Club
Morning all I've got a question;I bought a OS 300 and it's on ignition(CH Ignitions) does anyone have picture of how the three leads are hooked up?I know one goes to the sensor,and one goes to the battery,but where does the third one go?This may be off topic but I've searched everywhere I could think of,and the CH ignitions site is down.
Thanks in advance Jim.
Thanks in advance Jim.
#508
Join Date: Jan 2006
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RE: OS engines users Club
Thanks gkamysz,thats what it is alright.After much thought I just hooked a battery up to it,and then hooked one of my Futaba wallwart chargers to the last lead and the red light came on until I switched the unit on.Good to go.
Thanks again Jim.
Thanks again Jim.
#509
Senior Member
My Feedback: (19)
RE: OS engines users Club
Great. Usually, CH ignitions didn't have a switch hard wired. Maybe somebody added one. I also have an FT-160 with ignition, but haven't tried it yet. Winter is upon us once again in Chicagoland, so unless I really get an itch to play with it, I'm not going to mess with it until March.
#512
RE: OS engines users Club
I was wondering if any one that has a OS 55 AX and runs a 3 blade prop could give me the size. And the type or brand. Many thanks Yours Paul T
#513
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: omaha, AR
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RE: OS engines users Club
I have an os fs 40 surpass runs excellent,i want to make sure it stays this way.what i need to know is how to set the carb so its not running to lean?can anyone help or point me in the right direction.thanks Billy
#514
Senior Member
RE: OS engines users Club
Back in 1970 when I was in the Philippines, my sister who was an anesthesiologist intern in Albert Einstein Hospital in Philadelphia sent me a control line O.S. .09 from America's Hobby Center in New York which I had first seen from the America's Hobby Center ad in the Saturday Evening Post(remember????). I ordered the O.S. .09 through my sister stateside BECAUSE IT WAS THE CHEAPEST engine in the ad. The Cox Tee Dee .09 was just too expensive. The O.S. engines of that time were the CHEAPO engines in the hobby ads. The casting on that early O.S. was looking very crude compared to the K&B's, Cox Tee Dee, McCoy etc. that were displayed in the glass case in our local hobby shop in Manila, Philippines. Needless to say we bought bottles of Methanol and Castor Oil from the local Mercury Drugstore and mixed our own brew. We had made our own biplane made of bamboo spars, balsa pieces and thin gossamer paper that was used to make and fly kites. That little, primitive O.S. .09 ran good on control line and we had fun flights galore. Then in 1979 when I was already an immigrant here in Los Angeles, Califronia I bought from Hobby Shack(that was the name before they had to change it to Hobby People due to legal issues with another "....... Shack") the pretty looking ARF's made of blue/green ABS plastic with balsa and plywood formers and framers, that were made in Japan and the brand was called "Pilot". Those 2 ARF's were powered with an O.S. .25 and with an O.S. .35. I would fly and fly every weekend at the Sepulveda Dam Apollo Model flying field. Those cast iron cylinders and lapped piston engines were easy starting and once you richen the top RPM with a few clicks of the high speed needle...............they NEVER, EVER quit running as long as there was fuel in the tank. Those old time O.S. were extremely trouble free........you run it full throttle with the plane pointing up and adjust to richen a little before flying and they would just be utterly reliable. They would idle forever and when you are ready to fly you give it wide open throttle and there was no hesitation whatsoever......NONE. Those engines would snap to full throttle without hesitation even when idling for a long time. So when I read posts where people have engine quitting issues.............I chuckle at those old timer O.S. that are like the Eveready Rabbitt.............they just keep on running and running and running.....................I still have the .25 and .35 mounted on the "Pilot" ARF's in the garage waiting when I would have the time to bring them back to life. The antique .09 I left in the Philippines was lost in the sale of our house in the Philippines.....sad, I miss that little playmate.
P.S. Those days in 1979 I was using all Futaba radios and servos........BECAUSE THEY WERE CHEAPER than the Phil Kraft radios.........in those 1979 days the Futaba was the CHEAPIE radio and the O.S. was the CHEAPIE engine. How about that!!!
P.S. Those days in 1979 I was using all Futaba radios and servos........BECAUSE THEY WERE CHEAPER than the Phil Kraft radios.........in those 1979 days the Futaba was the CHEAPIE radio and the O.S. was the CHEAPIE engine. How about that!!!
#515
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Mantorville,
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RE: OS engines users Club
Just returning from leaving the hobby in 1994 due to work. Retired now and time to play. I have several O.S. 4 strokes that I love. Put them away with Marvel Mystery oil but they're all very stiff now. I also had an o.s. 40 and a S.T. 60 that were both seized. Did the trick of cooking in antifreeze and the 2 strokes run like new. My concern is removing the o-rings in the 4 strokes. I don't know for sure where they are in the various engines. I bought a rebuild kit for an old F.S. 90 (not surpass) and I'm OK with that. Need to free up my F.S. 70 Surpass. I took the o-ring out of the carb, are there o-rings on the push rod covers? Is thre a book or a site I can see parts breakdowns for these engines? I have the manuals for all of them but no breakdowns and the o-rings don't seem to be mentioned in the manual parts list. I have 3 90/91s, 3 120s, and a 70. I just don't want to ruin the o-rings cooking them in antifreeze! Any advice would be great! Thanks!
#516
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Frederick, MD
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RE: OS engines users Club
ORIGINAL: gkamysz
Great. Usually, CH ignitions didn't have a switch hard wired. Maybe somebody added one. I also have an FT-160 with ignition, but haven't tried it yet. Winter is upon us once again in Chicagoland, so unless I really get an itch to play with it, I'm not going to mess with it until March.
Great. Usually, CH ignitions didn't have a switch hard wired. Maybe somebody added one. I also have an FT-160 with ignition, but haven't tried it yet. Winter is upon us once again in Chicagoland, so unless I really get an itch to play with it, I'm not going to mess with it until March.
#517
RE: OS engines users Club
ORIGINAL: jweeld
Anyone have a manual for an OS MAX 61 FX they could post?
Anyone have a manual for an OS MAX 61 FX they could post?
#518
RE: OS engines users Club
I picked up an OS 52 Surpass 4 stroke for $80 at a swap meet in February, installed it in a Kadet LT40, and fired it up for the first time a couple weeks back. Purred like a kitten and revved up nicely. It was too windy to do much else with it, so windy the plane was moving around on it's own, and there was no wing on it. I couldnt hear the motor running with the wind.
What I noticed is when I first got it, you really couldn't tell where the compression stroke was, but now that it has a few minutes of run time, man can you feel the compression stroke! I will need a good battery to spin up the starter for this one.
#519
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RE: OS engines users Club
There a good engine for sure .That reminds me ill have to give mine a run again , I was surprised at the power of mine and wish I had a couple more . Cheers the pope
#520
My Feedback: (2)
RE: OS engines users Club
Hi everyone,
I have a question on a 91FX carb. I noticed that my 91FX wasn't running that well - poor adjustment of the HSN. I'm looking at the Carb and RNV, and I notice that my RNV has a plastic body while my manual calls out a RNV that is cast as part of the aluminum backplate.
Can anyone shed a little light on this? Is my plastic RNV the older version or the newer version? Did the old plastic version work badly such that they had to replace it with the new backplate version?
Can anyone shed any light on this, please???
For the record, I cannot get the engine to pass the pinch test. With the needle about 3 turns out, I pinch between the RNV and the carb and get very little response. In fact, just for fun, I wound up turning the needle 6 turns out and it would still not 'lean out' when I pinched the fuel line. Flushing the lines did nothing.
Any comments or education that you can give me???
Thanks,
Bob
I have a question on a 91FX carb. I noticed that my 91FX wasn't running that well - poor adjustment of the HSN. I'm looking at the Carb and RNV, and I notice that my RNV has a plastic body while my manual calls out a RNV that is cast as part of the aluminum backplate.
Can anyone shed a little light on this? Is my plastic RNV the older version or the newer version? Did the old plastic version work badly such that they had to replace it with the new backplate version?
Can anyone shed any light on this, please???
For the record, I cannot get the engine to pass the pinch test. With the needle about 3 turns out, I pinch between the RNV and the carb and get very little response. In fact, just for fun, I wound up turning the needle 6 turns out and it would still not 'lean out' when I pinched the fuel line. Flushing the lines did nothing.
Any comments or education that you can give me???
Thanks,
Bob
#521
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: OS engines users Club
You have the newer version of the RNV. Originally the RNV body was cast in as part of the back plate. This caused heat transfer to the the needle valve which resulted in the fuel going through the needle valve to heat and allowed bubbles to form. The OS fix was to seperate the RNV from the backplate to lessen heat transfer.
Bruce
Bruce
#523
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.10 fsr-r nva
Hi all -
A newbie here -just found your site.
I have a .10 FSR w/DDD conversion head.
I need an FSR-S NVA for it, stk # 21111006, cat # OSMG7160.
[TABLE="class: partstable"]
[TR]
[TD]Also a Venturi Insert,[/TD]
[TD] stk # 21112003, [/TD]
[TD] cat #OSMG9280[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
I've been told the .15 FSR NVA will work - true?
I've had no luck searching, except to find O.S. doesn't stock for it - too old.
I'm hoping someone here can suggest a source or may have a spare to sell.
Tnx.
Terry
A newbie here -just found your site.
I have a .10 FSR w/DDD conversion head.
I need an FSR-S NVA for it, stk # 21111006, cat # OSMG7160.
[TABLE="class: partstable"]
[TR]
[TD]Also a Venturi Insert,[/TD]
[TD] stk # 21112003, [/TD]
[TD] cat #OSMG9280[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
I've been told the .15 FSR NVA will work - true?
I've had no luck searching, except to find O.S. doesn't stock for it - too old.
I'm hoping someone here can suggest a source or may have a spare to sell.
Tnx.
Terry
Last edited by wha-tah-hey; 11-27-2013 at 02:22 PM.
#525
Join Date: May 2010
Location: WatsonACT, AUSTRALIA
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G`Day
Am looking for old style (5 bolt head) OS FS 40 four stroke head, broke mine while trying to push out tappet rod.
Need to replace. has anyone out there have one.
dutchy50
Am looking for old style (5 bolt head) OS FS 40 four stroke head, broke mine while trying to push out tappet rod.
Need to replace. has anyone out there have one.
dutchy50