crispyspa

Got the engine today. I started the break in procedure with SIG 10% nitro and 20% oil (½ castor-½synthetic). The book says run 5 min at 3 turns out (hsn). I have a 14 oz tank and ran it out in 3min. I refueled and ran another 3 min. I started the leaning procedure (by the book) and saw that my airbleed screw had backed out and was gone. No big deal since I plan to put the Jett red carb back on, but Ido have a question:

What is the purpose of an airbleed screw, and how does one set it? The book says NOTHING about that screw.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I'm lost, Crispyspa. What airbleed screw? We are talking about the ST G2300 (1.40 CID), aren't we?


Ed Cregger

crispyspa

yea. I dunno what it is exactly, I thought it was air bleed, but since the book says nothing...
I know which ones are the HS and LS. In this pic the one that is gone is the one with the spring on it.
https://www.toysonics.com/images/D/SUPG1805-01.JPG


Oh duh... That's the idle screw ain't it?

crispyspa

On the boat I don't use the idle stop, I like to be able to kill the engine from the transmitter.

I still have the question about air bleed though. I have a thunder tiger .28 on another boat that does have the air bleed, just wondering what it does.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

No problem.

On the TT .28 engine, the airbleed function enables the operator to reduce the overly rich mixture of the high speed needle setting by permitting an adjustable, additionalflow of air into the carburetor circuit.


Ed Cregger

Bobhend

My Feedback: (1)

I am working on getting my ST2300 running correctly. This engine started and ran perfectly on the test stand.  I had it in a 72" Nitroplanes Katana but it kept quitting at about 1/2 tank. It has a MAS 16x8 prop and I can tune it to run perfectly with a full tank (Sullivan 16oz). However as the tank level drops it eventually leans out and dies. If I tune it with a low tank it again idles and transitions well to full power but is too rich when the tank is full.  I am going to get a Perry pump model VP-30. If the pump works as advertised, the ST2300 should run perfectly, a poor man's OS120 4 stroke. Can anyone confirm this ? Advice on installing the 6-32 fitting on the crank case ? I suspect that fuel foaming and surging also .  I recently installed a 12 oz tank in a plane with a ST75, due to space restrictions the tank was hard wedged in the fuse. The tank was clear and the end was exposed (with wing off) and I observed a huge amount of foaming in the fuel at WOT. I had no idea about fuel foaming and it sure would explain a lot of other mysterious flame-outs on other planes and engines.  As a result I am going to fully isolate all my fuel tanks, including NOT having the cap fitted into a hole in the firewall. Add this to my very long list of "too soon old, too late smart". Would appreciate your comments on the Perry pump.

captinjohn

Try runing a 4 cycle Glow plug and see if that helps. Another thing you might try is a :hopper Tank" mounted close to engine with cener of tank near center of needle valve. Capt,n

crispyspa

This is what fuel foam looks like:
[link=http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i28/crispyspa/si3%20with%20supertiger/?action=view&current=MOV03864.flv]foaming fuel[/link]

I bought a [link=http://www.centralhobbies.com/Fuel/fueltnk2.html]Tettra[/link] bubbless tank and haven't looked back.

BTW. I got the new ST 2300 and broke it in on SIG 10% 50/50 castor and syn (20%oil) and put the Jett muffler on and lost 300 RPM. put the jett carb on and gained nothing back. Put the stock stuff back on and I turn a strong 9100 RPM with a 16x8 APC The jett stuff is now put away.....anyone want to buy it? LOL

Bobhend

My Feedback: (1)

That is an amazing video, I did see it previously. In my testing I had a 12oz Sullivan flex tank which is basically clear and I could see at least 1/2 inch of a foam "head" on the fuel. Your video shows a lot of very wild sloshing, which I had some of too. It is amazing this problem has not received more attention but the ARF makers are loath to add any cost.  I am currently running 16 planes so I am planning (thanks to your suggestion) to put Tettra tanks in the ones where I know I have had mysterious poor engine performance that always starts around half a tank. The H9 Pulse, Katana and Cox Ultimate for starters.   I found one other guy in the club that is "on" to the foaming problem and he had a night & day improvement once he wrapped the tank in foam. I am still getting a Perry pump for the ST2300 because I duplicated the fuel level sensitivity problem on the test stand with only minor foaming present. So in summary the ST2300 fuel delivery system is poor but there is also a fuel foaming issue which is common but the ST2300 is very sensitive to ANY variations in fuel delivery. I have bought a lot of 4S engines because of very unpredictable performance with 2S engines [dirt nap city]. Hopefully this is about to change !  Yup will also put a "F" plug in her. Capn John I will try the hopper tank but I have high hopes for the Perry pump. Hell of a good engine when it is running right.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

I heard that a "shot" or two of Armorall in one gallon of fuel mix will reduce foaming

Bobhend

My Feedback: (1)

<pre></pre>Regarding the engine tuning (not the foaming) my LHSinsists that I should run a "ST"fuel. This fuel is only 12%oil and the ST2300 manual only recommends conventional fuels. Icould not locate the Cline or Iron Bay regulators for sale, just the Perry VP30. However if you look at the Tower page for the ST2300 it concludes by saying "avoid pumps and regulators". They also say you need 1/2 psi pressure from the exhaust, so I wonder what the stock muffler produces and which prop would give enough rpm to get the pressure. So at this point I have absolutely no idea what to do next: which fuel, do I rig a manometer (1/2 psi is about 12" of water) and measure backpressure, what do they have against the Perry pump/ regulator ? Gary Conley (maker of Perry) wrote back to me and recommended getting the Perry carburetor, he says he sells more carbs for this engine than any other.

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

I have several 2300s.  They are all the chinese made 2300s.  they run very well when set up and tuned correctly.

they run on standard glow fuel, not the Super t fuel.  your hobby shop is wrong.  I use 10% omega, which has some castor in it as well as some artificial lube.  the lube is about 18% as I recall.  I also use a fox rc long plug for breakin as it needs to run somehwat rich at first and the idle bar helps keep it running during breakin.  I have one in my world models 81 inch mustang - it flies this plane VERY well.  i use a master ariscrew 17-8 scimitar prop on this plane.  I use an OS "F" plug in it after about 3 hours running.

The original muffler works great for this engine.  I normally break the engine in for 2-3 tanks ona  test stand with the original muffler and then change to a pitts type muffler.    Most pitts type mufflers do not have enough back pressure to give good fuel flow to the 2300, so I squeeze rthe muffler tubes about 1/3 to 1/2 shut.  this gives enough back pressure so the carb works well and the engine has good/even mixture control throughout the throttle range. 

By the way - I fly warbirds so I like rpm to get good speed.  I have flown the 2300 with both the 17-8 and 16-8 props.  I use wood props on the 2300. 

Good luck with your 2300.

Ed

Bigshark

It's been a while since I noticed this thread.  I put a new 2300 into a Sig 4 star 120 kit last year and crashed it when I lost my throttle servo at half throttle and ran the battery out before the fuel on the second flight of the plane.  The plane verticle from a couple hundred feet and was reduced to match sticks.  The 2300 made it through with just a bent crank.

Fast forward to this year.  Same 2300 with a new crank a newly built 120 4 star kit and I couldn't be happier.  I'm using the stock muffler, with an os 120 muffler extension and the stock carb, OS-F plug, and 10% omega.  I plumbed the tank (20oz) with large tubing but kept the smaller tube to the carb because the fitting there is tiny.  The engine is cowled and canted down so that the muffler is centerline under the fusilage.  I've been using an APC 17-8 "140 pattern" prop.  This plane is HEAVY but the verticle performance is impressive.  The speed is a bit much for me and my field even though the four star is a pretty draggy airframe.  The most amazing thing is the way this thing sips fuel.  I'm burning less fuel in this 2300 than I am in my Telemaster with a Tower .75.    Granted the Tower is mostly at 3/4 throttle and the 2300 at 1/2 or less.  I'm extremely impressed with my 2300 after about 15 good flights this year.  It is finally as bulletproof to start and fly as my beloved telemaster is..........        

Oldbob

Bobhend, the low oil Super Tiger fuel was typically used on the bigger ST engines like the 3000; 3250 and larger. The 2300 requires more oil. 18% to 20%.

 

Bob P

Bobhend

My Feedback: (1)

Ihad a good talk with Gary Conley (maker of Perry pumps/carbs). He believes their 5001 carb will provide a good overall improvement and he has sold more carbs for this engine than any other engine. He advised to beware the following: "The VP30 pump cannot be used with the stock ST carb because it will go way rich at mid throttle". [However you will read in previous posts that many people HAVE added the VP30 to a stock carb}. The pump has a lot of benefits but the #5002 carb is required because it is designed for constant fuel pressure. One benefit is being able to place the tank back at the CG, or if the engine is in a 3D plane that is in a sustained vertical position. Otherwise, go with the non pump setup. He also said the fuel tank needs to be below the carburetor inlet, this is contrary to the manual which calls for the centerline of the tank to be level with the carb fuel inlet. At this point I am getting an F plug, new 16x8 prop and the Perry 5001 carb. My tank cap was also hard mounted through the firewall, the fuel tank needs to be isolated from the fuselage with foam rubber. Gary also mentioned putting a sort of plastic mesh inside the tank to reduce foaming, does anyone know how to do this ? In reading back through the 2007 posts there is a strong convincing advocacy for adding on-board glow. That sure was my experience on the starting stand.

Bigshark

I'd try one of those sintered iron bubbless clunks before I'd put mesh in the tank. That sounds like and invitation to a tangled up disaster to me........


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXF25&P=ML


I know dubro makes one that's a bit cheaper........


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD741&P=7


My bad, It's sintered bronze not iron......

captinjohn

With that OS F Glow plug you should be able to use 5% nitro or even FIA fuel..(.no nitro). Capt,n

Bigshark

You are probably right Capt,n. I tried 5% omega and didn't notice a bit of difference. My other glow fueled bird has Tower .75 init though. The Tower engine didn't seem to like the5% so I settled on 10% for both of them.

On another note, the infamous Four Star bounce-o-matic Landing gear (okto be fair it wasn't my best landing) cost me a about a half inch on each blade of the previously mentioned 17-6APC prop. I've got an 18-5Zinger and several makes of16-10from Master Airscrew to Zinger. I seem to recall having issues with the MA 16-10 earlier. I'll have to try it again and report back now that this thing is running sobeautifully. I really think it'll work now.These beasts are feisty but I think time, tuning and a bitof tinkering make themterrific performers.

I am consistantlyastounded that a 1/8 to1/16 of a turn on the lowspeed needle is thedifference between a sweet running engine andamidrange so out of whack that a quick blip from 1/3to full throttle will kill it or cause it to sputter incessantly till the excess fuel is cleared.

Bigshark

Master Airscrew Classic 16-10 turned out to work good too.  I didn't bring my tach but the throttle response was great from idle to full and from one third to full and one half to full.  Didn't touch the needles and it was still able to do sustained nose high attitude without any noticable leaning out.  The 16-10 prop didn't seem to offer the thrust of the lower pitch props I've tried as you'd expect.  I'm going to put an 18-5 zinger on next and see what happens.

6 ten minute flights on Sunday doing much more full throttle turning and burning and this thing is still sipping fuel.  I still have a gallon jug of fuel over half full after two weekends worth of flying.

Whoohoo!        

turbo.gst

My Feedback: (8)

I have to agree with Bigshark about the low fuel consumption of the 2300. I went from a 20 oz tank with my YS 120( 16x8 & 15% nitro) to a 12 oz tank ( 17x8n & 5% nitro) with the 2300. I fly the 2300 at reduced power except for verticals the YS was always at 85% or more. It is a huge difference in fuel consumption. The ST 2300 is a great Engine!

turbo

Uncas

My Feedback: (1)

I am thinking of putting this engine on a GP YAK54. Based on what I am reading the plane should come in around 13.5 lbs. Is this too much weight for this engine? Looking for sport flying - no hovering.

Also, some past posts on this engine have been brutal. Have they modified this engine in the last year or so? It is not a good deal if you have to buy a new carb or if you spend all day trying to get it started.

crispyspa

I'm not a flier, so I can't answer the first question, but, The new one I just got runs strong with no problems starting at all. Prime according to the manual and two or three bump flips it's running. As I've found in the past, the needle settings can be somewhat confusing to a NOOB, (that would be me), but get it set right and it'll idle all day long and still have good transition to high after a long idle.
Stay away from fully synthetic fuel. I use 20% 50/50 caster and syn 10% nitro from SIG and the long plug the engine came with.

captinjohn

Just try a Supertiger 2300...you may just like it. Do not be worried about what other people say bad about the engine. They most likely just got a goofed up engine...but then again the operator may be goofed up. Capt,n P.S $139 at T. Hobbies right now!

Bobhend

My Feedback: (1)

I recommend ordering the Perry 5001 with the engine, at $45 it is a worthwhile investment, that and an OS F plug. Note we are at post #842 on this engine.

Bigshark

If you are talking about the 25% Yak, the plane calls for a 1.6 to 1.8 two stroke. I'd guess you'll want more motor though I do think the plane would be flyable with this 1.4 motor. My Four star 120 is likely lighter but in the same weight range.

The carb is fine if you adjust it in miniscule amounts till you get the low end perfect. It isn't the easiest engine to tune but it's only my second glow engine and I've managed to figure it out. The Perry carb is supposed to be hard to adjust on the low end too.

Use an OSF plug and get it perfectly tuned with the stock muffler before switching to a pitts or whatever. Make sure that the tank flows fuel pretty freely. If it doesn't, go to larger fuel tubing.