Check out this test stand
05-09-2006 | 02:08 PM
#2
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From: Garland, TX
RE: Check out this test stand
ORIGINAL: flycfii
Would be pretty simple to make, and would handle a big engine- just stake it and weight it down with some bricks. Whaddya think?
Would be pretty simple to make, and would handle a big engine- just stake it and weight it down with some bricks. Whaddya think?
05-09-2006 | 02:35 PM
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From: Garland, TX
RE: Check out this test stand
How do you mount the engine?
>>> edit <<< I see now. The slot-adjustable bars are for standard engine mounts. My brother did something similar but it has to be clamped to a table or bench.
>>> edit <<< I see now. The slot-adjustable bars are for standard engine mounts. My brother did something similar but it has to be clamped to a table or bench.
05-09-2006 | 02:54 PM
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From: Omaha,
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RE: Check out this test stand
I've been plagarized... I'm calling a lawyer.... Oh wait, I stole this idea from some other RCU poster. never mind. 
I have essentially the same design with all 2x4's and it works great. I've had up to a Saito 1.25 on it and it's rock solid with a cinder block on the back of it. I could actually get it to slide a little with the 1.25 full throttle with an APC 17x4W which was a little cool.
I have essentially the same design with all 2x4's and it works great. I've had up to a Saito 1.25 on it and it's rock solid with a cinder block on the back of it. I could actually get it to slide a little with the 1.25 full throttle with an APC 17x4W which was a little cool.
05-09-2006 | 03:32 PM
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From: Fresno, CA
RE: Check out this test stand
Nice and simple - my favorite type of stand! I like the idea of stakes thru the bottom panel to stick it into the ground - bigger engine, bigger stakes...
The engine mounting scheme appears to use the slotted holes to install almost any standard engine mount?
If you plan to put bricks on the bottom panel, I'd use 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick plywood... 1/8 might puncture a bit easily.
Using aluminum diagonal side straps instead of steel would not require painting to keep from rusting (a smidge lighter, too
).. Would also think about using aluminum cross bracing instead of the plywood on the front panel to allow prop blast to flow thru better...
I'd add a carrying handle across the vertical beams, but I'm just lazy.... In fact, if you put a carrying handle across the top, you could get rid of the front stiffening panel altogether.
Be sure to post the results!
Cheers!
Jim
The engine mounting scheme appears to use the slotted holes to install almost any standard engine mount?
If you plan to put bricks on the bottom panel, I'd use 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick plywood... 1/8 might puncture a bit easily.
Using aluminum diagonal side straps instead of steel would not require painting to keep from rusting (a smidge lighter, too
).. Would also think about using aluminum cross bracing instead of the plywood on the front panel to allow prop blast to flow thru better...I'd add a carrying handle across the vertical beams, but I'm just lazy.... In fact, if you put a carrying handle across the top, you could get rid of the front stiffening panel altogether.
Be sure to post the results!
Cheers!
Jim
