TH 75 Break-in
#1
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From: BONAIRE,
GA
Happy New Years' Folks,
I plan on breaking-in a Tower Hobbies 75 with a 12-6 prop per the instructions. Would like to know if there are any benefits, or liabilities, using a wood prop versus a nylon, or nylon composite type of prop. The break-in will be conducted on a bench stand.
ED
I plan on breaking-in a Tower Hobbies 75 with a 12-6 prop per the instructions. Would like to know if there are any benefits, or liabilities, using a wood prop versus a nylon, or nylon composite type of prop. The break-in will be conducted on a bench stand.
ED
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From: Paducah,
KY
nope not really but do watch your fingers as the apc will bite a little harder than the wood prop will.I'm sur you'll get differen't replies on this subject but at this juncture the key is not running too big of a prop and overheating your engine.Break it in with the size they recommend then experiment with props wood/plastic , The key to breaking in a glow engine is running it 2 cycle and then letting it run at a 4 cycle as per instructions for a couple of tanks.The motor is going to change with each tank you put through it until it's ready, so use what your comfortable with.
#4

My Feedback: (21)
....I run one of those engines, and it took a long time
to break in. Is it super tight at TDC ?
It might even "knock" when you first start it up. You
want to bring that engine up to operating temp as
quickly as possible, and run it wide open at a perfect
needle setting....not too rich, not too lean.
If you run that thing blubber rich on the stand, your
wasting fuel. If you have alot of black crud coming out
the exhaust....run it all the harder. Trust me on this.
I wasted a lot of time and fuel "babying" my motor, and
it took about 15 tanks before I got the black crud out,
and it really started to crank. (14K)
I tried a few different props, and found the 11-7 1/2 MAS
to work the best. Be sure to balance the prop, spinner, and
backplate if you want to get everything out of it. Take the
muffler apart and lock-tite it real good before you run it.
Your gonna love that motor....it's the best kept $100.
secret in RC.
Dave.
to break in. Is it super tight at TDC ?
It might even "knock" when you first start it up. You
want to bring that engine up to operating temp as
quickly as possible, and run it wide open at a perfect
needle setting....not too rich, not too lean.
If you run that thing blubber rich on the stand, your
wasting fuel. If you have alot of black crud coming out
the exhaust....run it all the harder. Trust me on this.
I wasted a lot of time and fuel "babying" my motor, and
it took about 15 tanks before I got the black crud out,
and it really started to crank. (14K)
I tried a few different props, and found the 11-7 1/2 MAS
to work the best. Be sure to balance the prop, spinner, and
backplate if you want to get everything out of it. Take the
muffler apart and lock-tite it real good before you run it.
Your gonna love that motor....it's the best kept $100.
secret in RC.
Dave.



