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goig to break in the Saito 150 tommorrow and was wondering if marvel mystry oil is good to put in pushrods and crankcase before first run?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Marvel will be great.

good luck,

Jim

wbeck01

Can after-run oil be used also?

coomarlin

My Feedback: (1)

Yes you can use afterrun oil. It should work fine. I prefer to use air-tool oil. A lot of people use Snap On airtool oil, but I buy a brand that Lowe's sells. I can't for the life of me remember the name, but it works well.

IronCross

w8ye
Jim did you change your avitar ?. If so I loved your old one.

BALSA BANDIT

Most of the oils of this type that are on the market are just MARVEL MYSTERY OIL repackaged. Oh yes, and the price pushed up 2 or 300%

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I blew it away. But due to unprecedented demand, I may have to throw it back up there?

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Atta boy James, everybody likes Delmar.

IronCross

Wasn't sure it was you anymore Jim :-]

Bski

I've also got a new 150. I know the manual recommends this oil before first run, but I'm not sure I want to take apart a brand new engine; never have been inside one of these engines.

I know it's recommended, but do I really need to?

coomarlin

My Feedback: (1)

It's not like your taking the entire engine apart. Your just taking the valve covers off and squirting some oil down the rods. It's better to do that than to risk ruining your engine.

captinjohn

w8ye: Hey I miss your photo (avitar) Seems like I talking to somebody else. How did you come up with w8ye ..... kinda original...Say Hi to Delmar. Best Regards Captinjohn

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

W8YE is my ham radio extra class call sign. It's a vanity number. My original call was KB8YE.

Though a little different, Delmar is back. He has something different to say this time. I have a lot of pictures of him.

Jim

Bski

OK. I took the valve covers off; no problem. Do I squirt the oil down the pushrods (forward end of engine), or the valve spring (rear end of engine)?

After seeing what this area looks like, now I have a question about the tappet gap adjustment. My rocker arms are touching the top of the valve spring; there is no gap. The engine has never been run. Should these be touching? To adjust the gap, do I turn the rocker arm screw (the screw on the side) or the nut on top of the forward end of the rocker arm?

Thanks, B-ski

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Put the oil in both areas.

ADJUSTING VALVES
From a thread on rcuniverse
The original writer is unknown
It is the best explanation I’ve seen

Adjusting the Saito, Magnum, OS, ASP, or Y-S valves can be accomplished by anyone with the right directions. The valve clearance is the same for all of them. Here is the method I have been using with Saito and the other 4 stroke engines.

Go to the auto parts store and get a blade type feeler gauge with .001, .002, .003 and .004 (one through 4 thousandth's INCH) blades. .002 is the minimum valve clearance and .004 is the maximum recommended by the manufacturers. I like to set to the minimum clearance so that the valve is open the maximum amount of time per cycle (more gas in, more exhaust out!).

The engine must be absolutely cold (not run that day - room temperature is fine).

Remove the valve cover(s). You may have to tap it (them) with the handle of a screwdriver to loosen them - pull it (them) off carefully, the gaskets (if present) can tear.

Bring the piston to the top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. It’s very easy to feel. If you are not sure, rotate the prop counter-clockwise until you feel compression, then remove the glow plug and look to see when the piston is at the top of the stroke. If you can't see, insert a straw or small plastic tube (only) vertically into the glow plug hole and slowly rotate the prop counter-clockwise until you feel the piston is at the top of its stroke.

Hold the prop at the exact position of TDC. It helps if you have 4 hands to do this job, but can be done with only 2. You should now be able to wiggle both rocker arms up and down a bit, as they should have some play.

Do one rocker arm at a time. Complete one, then do the other.

Using the tools, unscrew (counter-clockwise) the nut on top of the rocker arm about 1/2 turn. Leave the wrench on the nut.

Insert your Allen wrench or screwdriver in the top of the adjustment screw on top of the rocker arm - this is the shaft, which the nut is tightened onto. If you have an older engine, it will have a small straight screwdriver slot instead of an Allen wrench fitting. It helps if the wrenches are just about even with each other when loosened so you can hold them with one hand.

Open your feeler gauge and spread out blades .001, .002 and .003. Make sure no other blades are sticking to them! Fold all the others back into the handle.

Looking directly at the junction between the rocker shaft and valve stem, try to insert the .002 blade between the rocker arm and the valve stem shaft. I use the side of the blade, but some folks prefer the end of the blade. If you cannot slide it in, turn the Allen wrench or screwdriver counterclockwise a 1/4 turn, and press down on the push rod end of the shaft (the one with the nut on it) with just light finger pressure until you can slide the blade into the gap. Don't open the gap too much, or the push rod can slide out of the socket on the bottom of the rocker arm. If that happens, just re-center it and continue.

Hold the nut in place with the wrench, and turn the Allen wrench or screwdriver slowly (small amounts!) clockwise while sliding the .002 blade back and forth between the rocker arm and valve stem. When you have a very slight drag (Very Slight!) on the .002 blade, hold the Allen wrench or screwdriver in that exact position and tighten the nut down. Doesn't take a lot of pressure. Use a fingertip only at the end of the wrench to tighten the nut snugly. Remove the Allen wrench or screwdriver and nut the drive wrench. Check again with the .002 blade for a very slight drag.

Now, rotate the crankshaft two complete turns so that you are exactly at top dead center on the compression stroke again. Recheck your gap. The .001 should slide easily in and out without any pressure. The .003 should not fit, but may if you press hard, because it will cause the valve stem to open the valve slightly. The .002 should fit exactly with a very slight drag. If not correct, and repeat the procedure. A little practice here and you will have it down! Don't use much pressure fitting the blades, they are thin enough to slice your fingers!

Do the other rocker arm.

While the covers are off, use a small screwdriver to check that the shafts on which the rocker arms rock are tight - again, not much pressure here.

Oil the assembly before putting the covers back on.

Turn the engine upside down and put a drop of oil on:
the contact point between each rocker arm/valve stem,
the contact point between each rocker arm/push rod,

Tilt the engine sideways - put a drop of oil on each valve stem shaft through the spring - don't touch the spring, just let it drip through so the valve stem seal on the head will be lubed during the next step.

Turn the engine upright: Put a drop of oil on each side of the rocker arm where it rides on the rocker shaft. Finally, put 4-5 drops down each push rod tube. Put the covers back on. You're done. Do about once a year or 10 hours flying time on the engine.

Do the lubing before starting the engine anytime it has not been run for more than a month. Squirt several drops into the crankcase drain nipple and move the engine around to get the oil into the bearing at the same time. I use a 50/50 mix of Marvel Mystery oil and automatic transmission fluid for my lube oil.

I hope this has not been too basic - absolutely no insult is intended, just trying to help.

Bski

Thanks w8ye. Whoever wrote that did a great job. Even I can follow it.

If I can't slide the spacer between my rocker arm and valve stem now, I assume I need to adjust this before I ever start the engine for the first time. Is this normal? I would think it would come from the factory with the proper gap.

B-ski

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Most often, the valves are not set very close from the factory. I don't know whether there were burrs on the parts originally that caused the problems or whether they just don't have close tolerences at the factory for valve adjustment?

Jim

Den B

.002 is fine for your final adjustment . But may not be large enough gap for the first few runs.
The valves need some extra play to seat or beat them selfs iinto the valve seats.
If the gap is to small it can limit seating when the engine gets to Operating temp while you breakin.
On a new Saito .002 can be to snug and the owner will wounder WHY compreesion is not coming up correctly .

Give'm some play for the fisrt FEW runs then do what W8ye said

And W8ye is also correct in the Factory settings are a wild guess when you get a new Saito Check'm before you run it.


Den