I have been using Z Best Engine Cleaner for the past few years and suddenly find that it is no longer available in the LHS I frequent in Cincinnati and Dayton. Is anyone in other areas experiencing this? What alternatives can anyone suggest ?

The best, cheapest and probably the most hazardous, but it works. is to get an old crockpot and boil the engine in anti-freeze for a few hours.

Ed S

Thanks Ed. After making my initial post, I searched under engine cleaners and got to a thread about using anti-freeze and crock pots. I guess I can confiscate the one the wife unit uses as most of our cooking these days is done in the microwave (just kidding, dear).

Cook the engine or components (mufflers, headers, etc) overnight, on low heat, in an antifreeze-filled crockpot. No, I am not kidding.

Hot antifreeze works AMAZINGLY well. Best of all - no rubbing or scrubbing is required.

Required items:
- a 1 qt. (or larger) Crock-Pot
- a Gallon of Anti-Freeze (coolant for we southern types)

Warning: antifreeze is poisonous. Do not use the pot for cooking food after using it to clean engines! The vapours given off during this process probably aren't good for you either, so do this in a well-ventilated area. Finally, don't dispose the used antifreeze where your pets can get at it... dogs and cats like the taste of this stuff, and It Will Kill Them Dead.

Preparation:
Remove the muffler, glow plug and backplate. If your engine is completely gummed up with castor, you may have to remove the head as well. (Unless it's a Saito!) Place the engine and misc. components (not the glow plug) in the pot; pour in the antifreeze. Use enough to completely cover the engine.

Cover and plug in the Pot.

After 12+ hours, pull the engine from the pot. The hot antifreeze dissolves castor gum and varnish; carbon deposits are loosened and will generally rinse off with a quick spray of water. Furthermore, since antifreeze is formulated to work in your car's aluminum radiator, it does no harm to your aluminum engine.

Relube and assemble the motor, and you're done!

Be sure to use low heat!! As an experiment, I "cooked" a useless old LA .40 engine (natural finish) on high heat. The plastic throttle arm burned/melted - the plastic went into the antifreeze solution and coated *everything* in the pot. :stupid: What a mess!

Thanks for the input. I will pass this info along to the members in my club, the HAWKS. Check out our web site at www.hawksrc.org

So do you need to do anything special to the engine after the antifreeze. ie like break down and re lube the bearings etc..
Thanks
Crash

No nothing special, you just cook the engine for 4-8 hrs at Low Crock pot setting, take a toothpruch or a stiff paint brush lightly clean the area's with that and the Engine is as clean as new. I also ensure that my cylinder is open through the exhaust half way so to clean the top of the cylinder and upper portion of the head. Only use Natural Anti-Freeze not the bio-degradeable stuff. Alot of us use Prestone. Then rinse your motor completely with water I take the back plates off and drain them then squirt a little after run oil (Marvel Mystery air tool oil) then spin it through to lubricate everything. Do not use WD-40 it will cause your bearings to rust (Attracts moisture).

Hope this helps.

AMA 6518

Since Irvine .53 seems to be a perennual in these forums, does anyone know if the gorgeous maroon red powercoating can stand up to the hot antifreeze?

If it can stand up to the heat of combustion, it should do fine in the bath... Maybe! Also, that coating is baked on. You should be OK, just don't run the temp up too high on the pot!

I know the supercharging systems on YS engines are finikey, has anyone done thier ys engines w/o a complete break down after to rebuild the fuel pressure systems. Anything special about this cleaning process and the YS,
Crash

Must work. I saw it on Martha Stewart last week.

I dont have a crock pot but I do have an old pot I can cook it in using large fish tank heaters, What temperature works the best?

Try using "Demon Clean" available from Dave Geirke Flying Models. He's located in NY somewhere and if you'd like I can get his # to you. E-mail me and I'll get you the information. My father, Jim Bisson uses nothing but and swears by it.

OK This info is if you don't particularly like doing the "crockpot" senario, or paying big bucks for demon clean. If you want the "same" contents as demon clean or z-best then go to you local auto accessory store, PEP Boys, AUTO Zone, etc. And get an item called "Aircraft Remover" made by Klean Strip. The price may vary in your neighborhood but your talking about $6.00 for a pint, that's 16 oz. to play with. Why I like it is that it's cheap , it works, and if you want to take a little burnt-in castor off your engine, all you have to do is brush it on and wait about a hour or so and rinse it of with cold water. This stuff is potent so be sure to wear some latex gloves.
Steve