Bigshark

Looking at the engine mounting rails on the senior telemaster arf the carb throat (tower .75) will have to be two or so inches above the fuel tank. (unless I put the fuel tank in the radio compartment with long fuel lines)

I could lower the engine some by mounting it under the rails. Is this a good idea or necessary. The instruction booklet (ha ha ha) shows an engine mounted on top of the rails.

PS This is my first glow model ever.

Sport_Pilot

There is no Senior Telemaster ARF. I think you have the 40 sized one with a 73" wing span. The Senior has a 95" wingspan. I suggest you put no larger than a .50 sized engine on it. Unless you are planning to lift heavy cargo. At any rate you should be ok with that tank placement as you won't bother with inverted flight.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Bigshark...is this the one?

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/srtele-arf.htm

How about using a radial or firewall mount and bolting it lower on the firewall?

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

The senior Telemaster ARF is one sweet plane. You can go electric or glow with it.
Either way, it will weigh about 10 pounds, so the Tower .75 is a good selection.
I always say....the best 60 size engine out there is the Tower .75.

Here's some building tips....

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=708

.......just mount the engine in the normal fashion, it will be fine. You will not
be doing too many stunts with the telemaster. This plane is great for putting a
camera in, once you get the hang of it. Mount the tank in the normal position, it
will be fine. Take the muffler apart and seal the seams real good with some
black high temp silicon from the Auto Parts store before you run the engine.
Use some thread locker on the rear nut of the muffler.

FBD.

Sport_Pilot

When I went to glow planes the Senior ARF did not come up. How did you get that?

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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Yes, their web page is flawed. It is there though, as you have seen.

I always look for a picture of the Sr. Tele and click on it. That will take you to it.

This reminds me of the Tower Kaos 40 ARF. It does not usually appear when selected from the main list of sport 40 ARFs.


Ed Cregger

Kweasel

My Feedback: (29)

Tank location will not be an issue if the aircraft does not pull any Gs. If the tank is that low expect the engine to go lean during a steep turn or loop.

BillS

I can’t possibly imagine a CL tank set up 2� below the CL of the spray bar being reliable enough for my use.

The mounting rail on most engines .40 to .75 is about 1� below the CL of the spray bar and pointing the engine to 9:00 o’clock will lower the spray bar by 1�

Normally I prefer to avoid designs that appear to be untested.

Bill

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Ya gotta click on Electric planes, then scroll down 'till you get to Telemasters...it has the whole collection of 'em there...[8D]

(it also helps if you sort of have the whole Hobby-Lobby catalog memorized... )

Sport_Pilot

If you use muffler pressure it works well. The only engine I had that was a problem with a similar setup was an ASP .90 two stroke which would go lean near the end of the run so I would have to set it up a bit richer than I would like. Flying inverted was not a problem. I eventually added a Perry pump which worked fine.

Bigshark

(and in response to all)

Yes, that's the one. I always used the "electric conversions" link to get to it. After actually installing, cramming, fiddling, jiggling, along with just a bit of carving, the fuel tank is at about the level of the crankshaft of the motor. I could still mount the engine slung under the rails to get it closer to even. A can raise the tank without it coming through the "windshield or moving it back six inches. I dont think a different engine mount could be used without a major redesign. I'm going to try it as is and hope for the best...

PS Previously I'd broken in the motor on a test stand for about a gallon and a half, with the tank mouted at about the same level as the spraybar. It's run terrific to this point....

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Turn the engine sideways with the glow plug pointed at the right side of the plane. That should lower the carb spraybar down to almost get it even with the tank.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Yeah, but since this is not an aerobatic type of model, I don't think it matters that much. As long as the tank C/L is lower than the spraybar, it should be okay. One could always slap a VP-20 shaker pump on there, just to be safe and tinker a bit.

With its Clark Y type of airfoil, it is going to have to fly very nose high when inverted, so that should reduce the pressure head sufficiently (tank will be much lower in inverted flight, relative to the engine) to make it acceptable.


Ed Cregger

Bigshark

It would be perfect heightwise that way but the firewall has hardwood rails running through it to let the engine mount upright. Getting the rains torn out without totally goofing up the front end isn't appetizing.


Another REALLY dumb question. The Highspeed remote needle is attached the the back plate of the motor on a bracket. I assume there is no problem with pointing the needle up rather than to the side, so that I do not have to cut a slot into the fuselage side??? By the way I further assume that routing the fuel line close to or touching the back plate will not melt it or otherwise cause trouble. Good assumptions? or no?

Thanks in advance.

Sport_Pilot

Every Telemaster I have seen had the engine mounted on the provided rails with the tank in the stock location. I have never heard of any problems. Mount it as shown in the instructions and try it. you can always change it later.

DarZeelon

Shark,


If you want the glow option in this Telemaster, I cannot see anything that would prevent mounting the engine inverted.

That way the fuel tank center-line will be about the same level as the carburettor spray-bar... Not that you would want to fly this plane inverted, or anything.


But it looks very attractive as an electric model, just those NiMH batteries would have to be replaced by a good, 3 cell Li-Po set, that would get nearly a pound off the weight (3000 mAh).

Bigshark

Being a lipo-phobe and now living in close proximity to a county park with an RC airport not requiring club membership made trying glow power nearly a no brainer. I could have series wired all of my sub-c flight packs together for a five minute flight and kept it electric but glow still seems cheaper and more powerful and longer running. So be it.

PS after years of flying electric, the most beautiful thing I've ever seen is the sheen of oil left on a pristine piston and liner as seen through the exhaust ports on my Tower .75 after a gallon and a half run. And the smell! That nitromethane and castor oil smell! Smells like.....VICTORY!



I'm going to try as suggested by the instuctions and see what happens. I've got the high speed needle set pretty rich, so if it does lean out a bit while climbing it'll still be ok (hopefully.) All I need is to finsh the construction and get rid of 6 inches of solid ice and snow.......

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

It sounds like you will have lot's of fun with your new nitro burning plane !!

Your carb is only 1 and 1/4 inches above the tank center line. This is normal for an upright
mounted engine....you will have no problems.

FBD.

Bigshark

The distance Looked worse than that before a bit of carving and [sm=spinnyeyes.gif] ahem, ah, actually installing the floor under the fuel tank in that compartment....... The directions to this ARF really, really, stink.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

You can find a couple ways to drop the engine a bit, but I don't think you will
have a problem. Raising the tank up a bit is good. [sm=thumbup.gif]

FBD.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

[/quote]

It would be perfect heightwise that way but the firewall has hardwood rails running through it to let the engine mount upright. Getting the rails torn out without totally goofing up the front end isn't appetizing.
[/quote]


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This is the type of job that Zona Saws were made to handle.

Every time I run across a model with wooden engine bearers, I cut them out, mend the firewall and then use a commercial engine mount that bolts to the firewall. I have been known to keep and fly models so long that wooden engine mounts rot away from fuel soaking, etc. I believe in getting rid of them immediately and eliminate work later down the pike.

What the Zona Saw (X-acto backsaw works too) won't handle, the Mototool with a drum sander will.


Ed Cregger

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

Yo, ED....

....I was going suggest he do a "nose-job" on the plane, remove those plank sides, and
the wood runners. I did a nose job on the old Kaos awhile back because of soggy wood.
The old Kaos had those slab sides.

Maybe if the plane lasts a season or so, he can have some fun with the nose job.

FBD.

Bigshark

It would be perfect heightwise that way but the firewall has hardwood rails running through it to let the engine mount upright. Getting the rails torn out without totally goofing up the front end isn't appetizing.
[/quote]


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This is the type of job that Zona Saws were made to handle.

Every time I run across a model with wooden engine bearers, I cut them out, mend the firewall and then use a commercial engine mount that bolts to the firewall. I have been known to keep and fly models so long that wooden engine mounts rot away from fuel soaking, etc. I believe in getting rid of them immediately and eliminate work later down the pike.

What the Zona Saw (X-acto backsaw works too) won't handle, the Mototool with a drum sander will.


Ed Cregger

[/quote]




Ya know I'm not averse to a trip to the hardware store.....I assume a "zona saw" is one of those flexible flush cutting deals??? Hmmmm........

Bigshark

Hardly a vote of confidence.......





I do truely hate uncowled or uncovered front ends. I've picked up a roll of matching ultracoat cub yellow..... If she survives the winter I may have to do a little rhinoplasty.....