buckymri

My Feedback: (45)

Hey guys,
I recently bought a used ultra sport 1000. There was a big ole Super Tigre mounted on it. It has "Super Tigre 2000 S" stamped on the side of the cylinder. Tis must be an older engine because it was made in Italy. Anyway, I dont have much experience with ST's. I have not been able to find any specs on this engine. Not sure what prop to run. It looks like It is about the same size as an OS160. Anyone know about the ST 2000? Displacement? How much nitro to run? ect

Ralphbf

My Feedback: (27)

Try the Omega 10/10 fuel. I picked one up here on RCU for $20.00 put a set of Bowman rings in it
and a carb off my ST-2300 and it runs great on the test stand.

I can't remember the prop but it should be close to a 16 x 8.

Go to the Super Tigre web site and follow the carb. tuning procedure and you will be fine.

By the way I've been wanting a Ultra Sport 1000 for a while. I have a US-60 but haven't flown it yet.
I'm needing knee replacement surgery.

I hear the 1000 is one sweet plane, as is the 60.

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

The S-2000 is a 1.20ci engine unless it has 25cc stamped into one of the engine mount lugs, then it would be the 1.5ci displacement version. Run it one one of the "big tigre" type fuels blended with LESS oil (10%) for these engines.

Mike

k lupold

Hello, Guys what carb would work best on my g-90?
i am have trouble with her idle after landing
she is mounted at about 7 oclock inverted
and lower than the fuel cell so she gets
the siphon drip.

any idea how to help it???? also i have tryed the longer fuel line loop trick

thanks ken

longdan

Hi all

I have 2 STs, a GS45 ABC and a GS40 ringed. These are both older italian made ones. The carbs on both look identical except that the 45 has a sleeve or bush down the throat of it which reduces the diameter of the opening, and the spray bar on the 40 is not round, it has the sides machined flat to reduce its cross sectional area. I was wondering why the 45 has the bush, and coud I mix and match the parts to make a more powerful engine, by swapping the carbs over. This would mean that the 45 would have no bushing in the carb, and a thinner spray bar. Or would this cause a loss of venturi effect by being too 'open'?

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

the st 2300 instructions say to run standard glow fuel in that engine, not the 10/10 fuel. so i would say do NOT use the 10/10 fuel as this engine probably is not designed for the low lubricant fuel. use 5 or 10% fuel with 18% lubricant like Omega.

Ed

Ralphbf

My Feedback: (27)

This is not a ST-2300. It is a 2000 S.


They are completely different engines.

pc55bomber

Hi Ralphbf

I have the S2500 version and they run absolutely sweet with NO NEED to change the carby. (Italian made engine)
Mine is in my son's extra and he flies full on 3D with it, without the engine missing a beat, no pumps, no tweaks, no tricks.

Fuel is :
10% (max) coolpower blue (use any oil you wish but no more than 10%)
90 % methanol
NO NITRO no need for it.

Tune it the italian way.

I have a lot of tigres from .29 to 3250 and we don't have any trouble at all. (Italian and Chinese made)
IMO this carby changing caper is misleading and is not required regardless of what you read here.

I am stunned at the negativity shown towards Tigres carbs by some people on this forum.

I love my Tigres and they perform flawlessly without any changes required.

Cheers
Paul

mr.scale

My Feedback: (4)

hi guys :
well I'm thinking on getting a G-2300 for my aeroworks extra profile, will this engine fly it to the point of 3-d or some, and what prop shuould i use, I'm thinking TF 18x8 on powermaster 10%nitro.
thanks
Fernando

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I picked up this (Italian) SuperTigre .61 ABC for $109.00 in Lisbon, Ohio about 3 years ago, it seems to be a great engine. I ran it just now on WildCat 5% Premium/16% 80/20 syn/castor blend.
Prop==Bolly 12.5x8
Plug==Fox idle bar
Muffler==Bisson 60 sized Sport Muffler
RPM==10,480

This one has a very good carb, I pulled the head as soon as I got it back in my shop, it had no pinch, I thought that was bad. By the time I came into the house, got the camera and took the pictures the pinch was back. Picture #2 is what it looks like inside after one hour at speeds between 6,000 and 10,000.

Anybody else have experience with the .61 ABC?

Ralphbf

My Feedback: (27)

I run a ST-2300 inverted on a pattern plane.
I could never get it to run, "PERFECT" with the stock carb.
"See Picture"

I put an OS carb on it and I could tune it in much better.
So I had a extra carb.
I then bought a S-2000 with out a carb. and in need of a new ring for $20.00

I now have a sweet running S-2000 for $30.00 out of pocket money

BD Culver

has anyone heard of anybody converting a ST 3000 to a 3250

grassroots

Good Day

TCrafty

Just had my Sukhoi out yesterday with a G2300 on it. Stock carb, Bisson muffler (no holes plugged) wth a 17X8 APC prop. Im always mindful of those who have changed the carb over tuning issues but I've not had to. I was really starting to enjoy flying the plane by the end of the day (I'm getting over the pucker-factor with this plane). I had it standing on the prop (about 4 mistakes high) and was starting to really enjoy the plane. Now, there' one other guy at the field who is contemplating putting a 3250 in a Dynaflight Decathalon and pulling the gasser out to lose some wieght. That should make a great flyer. I'll also have another 2300 on the way soon for a Pitts that's going together.

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

My Sukhoi does very well on the 17-8. Not much difference between that and the 16-10. They both turn up over 9000 with my setup. I'm wondering what yours turns with the stock carb.

BTW, the Sukhoi is a very nice flying airplane. It's only fault is the frontal area is very draggy, and it won't glide much at all. It bleeds speed rapidly over the threshold and lands really nice.

TCrafty

I get about 8500 RPM on 15% Magnum fuel with the stock carb and both exhaust tips open. I can probably get more as my engine breaks-in more and I lean it out a little more but I'm not in a hurry and it pulls it out with pretty good authority as it is. My cowling turned to big chunks of white dust a while back (ABS) and I've not got another one for it yet. Of course, when the cowl went, so did the belly pan so I'll be buying a package deal when I do it. I see that Goldberg is now offering the ARF with the fiberglass cowl so I might just get one from them. The plane does glide fairly well without it so we'll see what kind of difference it will make with a front mounted parachute on it. How does your 2300 fit under the cowling? I was thinking that the only cutting necessary would be for cooling as I think the head will be inside the cowl.

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

The head was inside the cowl, but I cut a big hole there anyway for cooling. In the beginning, it seemed like it was running hot, so I opened everything up really big. It didn't hurt the looks of the plane at all. You'll need a fairly large hole underneath just to get the cowl on over the muffler.

Does your high speed needle ever get a good peak? Can you make it run slobbery rich at wot? Those are the two things mine would never do. That's why I changed carbs.

A6TEXAN

NEED HELP PLEASE. JUST PURCHASED AN ST51. FIRST TANK ON BREAK IN WITH 12-6 PROP ENGIUNE RAN OK, I DID NOT ADJUST ANYTHING FROM FACTORY SETTINGS. NEXT TANK ENGINE HAD NO TOP END REV.
I STARTED TO TRY ADJUSTING HIGH END NEEDLE, IT HAS NO EFFECT AN ENGINE WHATSOEVER. I CHECKED THE FACTORY SETTING ON THE LOW END NEEDLE AND WAS SHOCKED TO FIND IT WAS AT 8 TURNS OUT. I ASSUMED THIS WAS A MISTAKE. I ADJUSTED IT. ENGINE WOULD NOT EVEN TRY TO START AGAIN UNTIL I EVENTUALLY TURNED IT BACK TO 8 TURNS OUT. ENGINE WILL RUN BUT PROBABLY NOT OVER 5,000 RPM. ANY ADVANCE IN THROTTLE PAST THIS ENGINE DIES IMMEDIATLY. THE HIGH END NEEDLE STILL SEEMS TO HAVE NO EFFECT. PLEASE CAN SOMEONE GIVE ME SOME CARB SETTINGS. THANK YOU VERY MUCH IN ADVANCE.

Ralphbf

My Feedback: (27)

I would guess you have "Dirt" in a passage that is clogging up the carb.

grassroots

Not 100% sure about 8 turns out but my low speed on my 40's is several turns out. A good way to guage it is by looking at how close it to being flush with the end of the carb barrel. Mine is about 1/16 to 3/32 from being flush. Check picture.

Make sure you have not went past the point of no return on the high speed. This is where it would be to lean to pick up any RPM.

My high speed is about 2 turns out, I would start at 3 turns out and go from there going back in.

Also inspect your fuel lines etc.. Last resort pull carb apart check for trash, I like using a can of air (computer type) to blow my carb parts clean after soaking in alcohol.

Hope this helps

grassroots

Also forgot to mention a 12/6 prop is not even recomended for the ST 51. You might be over proped and not able to get high RPMs. Suggested break in is 10/8, or 11/6 pulled those numbers straight from the manual.

TCrafty

I don't think "slobbery rich" at WOT would be possible although I've not tried it. I did try plugging one of the exhaust outlets once and did notice that I needed to re-adjust the needles. Ultimately, I wasn't satisfied with the way it was running with the plug so I removed it and re-tuned it. Now, it idles fine, no midrange issues and it has plenty of power. I may be a little different than a lot of flyers in that I don't see WOT very often. When I was on the up-lines this weekend, the plane had a slight smoke trail all the way up to the point where I would do some sort of tumble, a hammer-head or just turn with the rudder. On several occasions, when I idled down and started back down, I could still see puffs of smoke as the engine's exhaust would make that "blub-blubblub-blub" (non-scientific term, I'm sure ) As the day went on, the smoke got lesser and lesser and the engine picked up on power. I'm assuming that the ring was seating better and it was burning more of the fuel (hence the better power and less smoke). I don't think that the needles are where they will be for the rest of their lives but for now, it's running rich enough to lube the engine and lean enough to fly well. If it continues to fly like it did this weekend, I'll be using it a lot more and once I get some more time on it, I'll be fine-tuning it. It already uses much less fuel than the 180 that I had on it and as I lean it out more, that will only get better. I think I might lean the low end some more eventually but the high end doesn't seem to need it, other than to keep the tune correct throughout the entire RPM range.

My dad said that if it keeps flying like that, I'll HAVE to get a cowl on it. I think he's right.

ianwynne

Hello Everyone:

Does anybody know of any aluminium engine mounts which are available for the Supertigre G51 and G90 engines?

I have an excellent aluminium OS mount for my OS 50SX and I would like something similar for my Supertigres.

Any assistance or advice will be gratefully received.

Thanks.

Bye, Ian

[email protected]

Tower Hobbies has Du-Bro aluminum mounts. They have rubber grommets which supposedly reduce vibration and fuel foaming. They are what I would try. Looks like they would have to be drilled to match the mounting holes on your engine.
Also Tower Hobbies has O. S. aluminum mounts that looks like they are pre drilled for O. S. engines. So for a S. T. engine you would have to drill them to fit your engine.
Capt.

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

I have a new G90 on the test stand. I've run it a few times, about 4 tanks of fuel. Today I played with the needles a little bit. I noticed that the rich midrange was there, but I tuned it out with the high speed needle. That doesn't make much sense to me, because the low needle works for all but full throttle. I tuned the low needle till it would hesitate on throttle up, then richened it till it picked up smoothly from a low idle. I set the high needle about 1/2 turn open from leaning out at full throttle. These settings give it reliable idle, good acceleration, good rich top end, and no rich midrange. I am running 15% omega and a 13-8 ma scimitar prop. Stock plug and slimline pitts muffler. Throttle response is so quick, it responds as fast as you can move the pushrod. I don't know of any servos that fast. This engine is going in a Midwest Citabria, so I'm not too worried about throttling, but it appears that it would make a good 3D engine.

Next one to go back on the stand is the 2300.