*** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
01-14-2007, 09:34 PM
#151
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
One method of adding afterrun oil is to remove the glow plug and add it there. I think that I may start doing it this way. I ofter ask people if the use after-run oil and all the people I fly with say they don't use it. I am religious in useing it and I like to use about 25 drops no more no less.
01-14-2007, 09:36 PM
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
The only problem I see with this after-run oil is that it delays starts a few seconds and almost makes hand starts impossible at times because of the oil getting on the glowplug element. I find that I have spin the starter a few times till it gets blown off the plug before my engines will start.
01-14-2007, 09:44 PM
#153
RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
G'day Mate,
There is no point putting ARO in through the glow plug hole, 1: it won't get into the bearings where it needs to be & 2: you will eventually wear out the glow plug threads in the head.
There is no point putting ARO in through the glow plug hole, 1: it won't get into the bearings where it needs to be & 2: you will eventually wear out the glow plug threads in the head.
01-14-2007, 09:50 PM
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
I was adding it to the carb through an air filter but got to thinking about the dust that I was also flushing into the engine through the air filter element. Removing the filter is too much of a headache. The oild in the glowplug hole will reach the bearing though ports etc. but will require tilting motor forward.
01-14-2007, 11:54 PM
#155
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
I've got to say that if you use a *good* oil (with at least some castor in it), ARO is really not necessary in a 2-stroke engine.
I've *never* lost bearings in any 2-stroke due to rust or corrosion, and that's in some 45 years of modelling -- perhaps because I've always used a touch of castor.
In my 4-strokes I *do* use ARO, but that's because the oil in the bearings is contaiminated with combustion byproducts and becomes slightly corrosive anyway.
The oil in a 2-stroke's bearings is placed their by unburnt fuel -- so it should contain no corrosive combustion byproducts.
Even 2-3% castor seems to be enough to provide a much-needed film that keeps atmospheric oxygen from getting at the balls, cages and races.
I've *never* lost bearings in any 2-stroke due to rust or corrosion, and that's in some 45 years of modelling -- perhaps because I've always used a touch of castor.
In my 4-strokes I *do* use ARO, but that's because the oil in the bearings is contaiminated with combustion byproducts and becomes slightly corrosive anyway.
The oil in a 2-stroke's bearings is placed their by unburnt fuel -- so it should contain no corrosive combustion byproducts.
Even 2-3% castor seems to be enough to provide a much-needed film that keeps atmospheric oxygen from getting at the balls, cages and races.
01-16-2007, 06:54 PM
#156
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
After I have pulled the back cover off a few engine and saw the remaining fuel/oil left in the crankcase I will continue to use the afterrun oil. The humidity in MS is just too great to take a chance on rust with all that nitro and methanol. If I lived in the drier areas of the country I would consider not useing it. I believe it also helps on startup and helps with the carbon on top of the piston and possibly helps till the piston expands up to size and the engine warms up. Not sure about that last one as I don't know how long it remains in the engine as the engine is reved up. It may be possible that a film of oil remains in the engine for some time as it doesn't mix with methanol and gets blown out with heat and pressures. Lets hear you premis.
01-16-2007, 07:00 PM
#157
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
ORIGINAL: buzzingb
The only problem I see with this after-run oil is that it delays starts a few seconds and almost makes hand starts impossible at times because of the oil getting on the glowplug element. I find that I have spin the starter a few times till it gets blown off the plug before my engines will start.
The only problem I see with this after-run oil is that it delays starts a few seconds and almost makes hand starts impossible at times because of the oil getting on the glowplug element. I find that I have spin the starter a few times till it gets blown off the plug before my engines will start.
-------------
From my philosophical point of view, making handstarts impossible is a good thing. Keep your hands away from that prop! <G>
Ed Cregger
01-16-2007, 07:43 PM
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
I normally use the electric starte but on my last time out flying I lost my starter rubber insert and had to hand start the 51. I opened the throttle 1/4 and primed it a few flips and then attached the glow driver and to my surprise on the first flip with a chicken stick it fired right up even with the afterrun oil. One thing to be careful with when useing an electric starter is to flip the prop over a few time with a chicken stick to ensure no hydrolock. That was why I decided a few years ago to investigate just how much afterrun oil is needed instead of just squirting or dripping and I found that about 25 drops is about right. My main concern is the extra pressure afterrun oil can generate by pooling and causing hydrolock or just providing a better seal between the piston ring and cylinder (oil on cylinder wall doesn't allow as much blowby,seals the gas in combustion chamber on compression stroke).
01-16-2007, 08:22 PM
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
Actually the ARO will go straight down through the intake ports into the crankcase and lube the rear bearing. Very little will come out the exhaust because its higher.
01-17-2007, 07:35 AM
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
I am not sure how to do it but I would not want to add it through an airfilter and flust dust into the engine. Maybe I can figure a way to mount the bruline filter with a spring clamp so that it can be removed and installed easily. Flushing dust into the engine throught the airfilter element withe afterrun oil isn't something that I want to do.
01-17-2007, 08:19 AM
#162
RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
Just had a thought...
Remember the old Enya mufflers? They had a port or opening directly opposite the exhaust stack, used for priming...
Maybe you could drill a small (let's say 1/8" ) hole in the muffler, so you could insert a piece of 1/8" brass tube attached to your ARO bottle so you could squirt the ARO thru the exh. port?
You would have to figure a way to plug the 1/8" opening though...or...perhaps make it your alternate pressure location? I think some older ST mufflers actually had such a thing, used for priming?
Remember the old Enya mufflers? They had a port or opening directly opposite the exhaust stack, used for priming...
Maybe you could drill a small (let's say 1/8" ) hole in the muffler, so you could insert a piece of 1/8" brass tube attached to your ARO bottle so you could squirt the ARO thru the exh. port?
You would have to figure a way to plug the 1/8" opening though...or...perhaps make it your alternate pressure location? I think some older ST mufflers actually had such a thing, used for priming?
01-17-2007, 12:12 PM
#163
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
Good idea PropTop, I will use a short piece of fuel tube and squirt it through the pressure tap that is alread on the muffler. This will allow the afterrun oil to run down the muffler into the engine and to the bottom of the crankcase and oil the bearings and won't flush the trapped dust particles in the airfilter into the engine. I will give it a try next time out.
01-17-2007, 04:25 PM
#164
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
I wonder how many people out there are unaware that they are flushing dust into their engines like I have been doing? Just think about it, I was useing an airfilter to try and keep out dust and dirt and then I take it home and use afterrun oil to flush this dust right on into the engine. Man was I stupid. I will have to think things trough more form now on out.
01-17-2007, 06:16 PM
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
I just came in from the shop where I was test fitting a 61ABC to a motor mount and I was testing the compression. It certainly has plenty of compression as I could hardly turn it over by hand. The mount was a great planes mount and man does it have some plastic making it up. By that I mean that there is a lot of plastic to contribute to weight. I may just put that thing back in the drawer and orde a Dave Brown. We'll just wait and see how the ole Four Star balances out. I didn't want to use that large of engine on the four star but I have it due to a trade I made with a Tiger Shark 91. I am banking on the 61 pulling more than the 91 but that remains to be seen.
01-17-2007, 06:21 PM
#166
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
With the Four Star 60 I won't need much power at all and want just enought to cruze around. I wanted to see just how low in displacement I could fly with, but money is a little short now after Christmas.The Four Star has a very large wing with lots of lift but the fuse is going to be a little heavy due to making the repairs out of wall paneling. I have a Thunder Tiger 42 that I think would fly it but it needs a carb. Anyone have an old Thunder Tiger 42 that is willing to let go of the carb??
01-17-2007, 09:21 PM
#167
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
Truth of the matter is that I am afraid to mount the 61 to the 4 star because I am afraid the panelling will start delaminating. That wouldn't be good. I have seen an airplane made out of spruce from Home Depot before that flew. The guy didn't even pane it down thinner it was the full bore 1X4s. Oh well that is part of the fun of this hobby we are allowed to screw up every once in a while.
01-18-2007, 08:46 AM
#168
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
This morning I have just been reading the Owners Manual that came with my engine and I must say it is well written. I escecially like the Care and Maintenance section because of two things I have just read. #1 After the engine is dry of fuel open the throttle and put several drops of a good-quality after-run oil into the engine,.....briskly handflip......repeat.
#2 Keep your engine clean. Wipe off the outside of the engine with denatured or rubbing alcohol to remove any fuel residue and dirt. It goes on to say.. If dirt or burned-on fuel residue is allowoed to accumulate on the cylinder fins the engine's cooling wil be reduced.
So there you have it straight from Super Tiger use after-run oil and alcahol to clean the engine.
Just think about it, how many nasty unkept engines have you seen for sell on Ebay, etc?? It doesn't require an engine disassembly to keep an engine clean and in working oreder, on the contrary, never disassemble an engine unless it is needed. Do use alcahol and a rag to clean the outside of the engine. I have heard many on RCU talking about taking their engines apart to cean them. WHY, WHY, WHY I bet these people don't even use alcahol and a rag to clean the outside of their engines. I personally have just started useing methanol in a spray bottle and a soft paper towel to clean my engines and I have already noticed a difference. Happy Flying and Lets keep it real.
#2 Keep your engine clean. Wipe off the outside of the engine with denatured or rubbing alcohol to remove any fuel residue and dirt. It goes on to say.. If dirt or burned-on fuel residue is allowoed to accumulate on the cylinder fins the engine's cooling wil be reduced.
So there you have it straight from Super Tiger use after-run oil and alcahol to clean the engine.
Just think about it, how many nasty unkept engines have you seen for sell on Ebay, etc?? It doesn't require an engine disassembly to keep an engine clean and in working oreder, on the contrary, never disassemble an engine unless it is needed. Do use alcahol and a rag to clean the outside of the engine. I have heard many on RCU talking about taking their engines apart to cean them. WHY, WHY, WHY I bet these people don't even use alcahol and a rag to clean the outside of their engines. I personally have just started useing methanol in a spray bottle and a soft paper towel to clean my engines and I have already noticed a difference. Happy Flying and Lets keep it real.
01-18-2007, 09:46 AM
#169
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
Super Tiger are new to me so I need the knowledge of some of tho older season Super Tiger people. I was noticing the some of my engine had a different propeller nut that that had a flange that actually got screwed into the propeller washer. What is the purpose of this special nut? It looks better designed to me but I am no engineer. IS this nut better in design than a nut on other engines??
01-18-2007, 10:45 AM
#170
RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
I think that nut will center the prop washer so it won't wobble? That and the nut is thicker so there are more threads for a stronger nut? Some 4 strokes have this set up too.
The alcohol in a spray bottle is a good idea...keep the engine clean so it doesn't get all gunked up and turn brown from the baked on residue [8D]
The alcohol in a spray bottle is a good idea...keep the engine clean so it doesn't get all gunked up and turn brown from the baked on residue [8D]
01-18-2007, 11:09 AM
#171
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
So that would mean that the Super Tiger Prop nuts and washers are designed better than other manufacturers?? Appears to be so.
01-18-2007, 01:15 PM
#173
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
The aluminum washer does keep ratating mass down also. I need to get me one of the spinner nuts that is coned shaped so the starter will work better but for now I will just keep useing the original as it only takes a couple of rounds with the starter to get her going.
01-18-2007, 01:27 PM
#174
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
ORIGINAL: buzzingb
This morning I have just been reading the Owners Manual that came with my engine and I must say it is well written. I escecially like the Care and Maintenance section because of two things I have just read. #1 After the engine is dry of fuel open the throttle and put several drops of a good-quality after-run oil into the engine,.....briskly handflip......repeat.
#2 Keep your engine clean. Wipe off the outside of the engine with denatured or rubbing alcohol to remove any fuel residue and dirt. It goes on to say.. If dirt or burned-on fuel residue is allowoed to accumulate on the cylinder fins the engine's cooling wil be reduced.
So there you have it straight from Super Tiger use after-run oil and alcahol to clean the engine.
Just think about it, how many nasty unkept engines have you seen for sell on Ebay, etc?? It doesn't require an engine disassembly to keep an engine clean and in working oreder, on the contrary, never disassemble an engine unless it is needed. Do use alcahol and a rag to clean the outside of the engine. I have heard many on RCU talking about taking their engines apart to cean them. WHY, WHY, WHY I bet these people don't even use alcahol and a rag to clean the outside of their engines. I personally have just started useing methanol in a spray bottle and a soft paper towel to clean my engines and I have already noticed a difference. Happy Flying and Lets keep it real.
This morning I have just been reading the Owners Manual that came with my engine and I must say it is well written. I escecially like the Care and Maintenance section because of two things I have just read. #1 After the engine is dry of fuel open the throttle and put several drops of a good-quality after-run oil into the engine,.....briskly handflip......repeat.
#2 Keep your engine clean. Wipe off the outside of the engine with denatured or rubbing alcohol to remove any fuel residue and dirt. It goes on to say.. If dirt or burned-on fuel residue is allowoed to accumulate on the cylinder fins the engine's cooling wil be reduced.
So there you have it straight from Super Tiger use after-run oil and alcahol to clean the engine.
Just think about it, how many nasty unkept engines have you seen for sell on Ebay, etc?? It doesn't require an engine disassembly to keep an engine clean and in working oreder, on the contrary, never disassemble an engine unless it is needed. Do use alcahol and a rag to clean the outside of the engine. I have heard many on RCU talking about taking their engines apart to cean them. WHY, WHY, WHY I bet these people don't even use alcahol and a rag to clean the outside of their engines. I personally have just started useing methanol in a spray bottle and a soft paper towel to clean my engines and I have already noticed a difference. Happy Flying and Lets keep it real.
-------------
After flying glow engines for a while, it is easy to become careless around methonal. After all, it is just fuel, right?
Methanol is absorbed through the skin and does liver damage. If your liver is already marginal...
Inhaling methanol fumes is not a good thing to do, even though, over time, you have become acclimated to its smell and may even find it comforting.
Now, if someone has chronic pain and takes Tylenol regularly and then adds the methanol burden to their liver's duties...
What a silly reason to die.
Ed Cregger
01-18-2007, 03:52 PM
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RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
You are right Ed, if you spray your engine with methanol please do it at the field or outside so you aren't breating the vapors. This is true with any kind of chemical,methanol, rubbing aclahol or other. Also if you have a cut on your hand don't get the methanon on it as it is easier to get absorbed that way. I know it also burns cuts but I have gotten some on my hand before with a cut by accident.