Perry pump regulator questions
#1
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I put a Perry pump regulator model VP30 on a Tower 46ABC last year and I thought it worked pretty well. My question is does anyone have experience with these pumps that would share? I would like to get another one and put it on a MDS 68 that would allow a CG install on the tank in a new Balsanova 40 that I built. Does it have enough pumping power to allow the cg tank to work? I did not have a CG tank on the plane with the Tower engine (since sold that plane) but I did think that it gave the engine a much more consistent run thru the tank. Any feedback good or bad wiuld be appreciated. Thanks, Mike
#2
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From: Tulsa,
OK
mups53:
I have used the Perry VP30 in the past. I found it worked better if I used it with a "Pump rated" carb rather than a standard (non air-bleed) carb. Standard carbs seemed to run rich in the mid-range. The best installation I had was a VP30 AND a Perry Pump Carb on a Fox .74 in a Balsa USA Enforcer (Delta Wing) pusher. The tank was mounted so that the vent/fuel nipples pointed away from the engine. This made for rather long fuel lines. Sometimes getting the pump and carb adjusted can be a pain but once the pump is set it tends to stay set.
You might also consider a Cline Regulator. This is a demand device that uses a check valve in the muffler pressure line to pressurize the fuel tank. It works with any type of carb. You don't have to drill/tap the crankcase. It never needs adjustment and Cline provides a "repair kit" if you ever need to fix it. Another thing I like about the Cline is that when the engine is not running NO FUEL passes through the regulator to the engine.
Last time I checked the Cline was about $50.00 and the VP30 was about $38.00.
I prefer the Cline myself but I have never used it in place of the VP30 AND a Pump Carb. I think it would work regardless of the carb since whatl the regulator does is "see" the demand from the engine and feed it.
Just my experience and opinion.
As "they" say - your mileage may vary.
Dan
I have used the Perry VP30 in the past. I found it worked better if I used it with a "Pump rated" carb rather than a standard (non air-bleed) carb. Standard carbs seemed to run rich in the mid-range. The best installation I had was a VP30 AND a Perry Pump Carb on a Fox .74 in a Balsa USA Enforcer (Delta Wing) pusher. The tank was mounted so that the vent/fuel nipples pointed away from the engine. This made for rather long fuel lines. Sometimes getting the pump and carb adjusted can be a pain but once the pump is set it tends to stay set.
You might also consider a Cline Regulator. This is a demand device that uses a check valve in the muffler pressure line to pressurize the fuel tank. It works with any type of carb. You don't have to drill/tap the crankcase. It never needs adjustment and Cline provides a "repair kit" if you ever need to fix it. Another thing I like about the Cline is that when the engine is not running NO FUEL passes through the regulator to the engine.
Last time I checked the Cline was about $50.00 and the VP30 was about $38.00.
I prefer the Cline myself but I have never used it in place of the VP30 AND a Pump Carb. I think it would work regardless of the carb since whatl the regulator does is "see" the demand from the engine and feed it.
Just my experience and opinion.
As "they" say - your mileage may vary.
Dan
#3
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Thanks Dan I had a Cline regulator in a Sig Cap 231 EX last year. It was a running on a Moki 1.8 and it worked very well. The cost from Jim Cline is $50 shipped. The Perry VP30 is around $26 plus S&H from Tower Hobbies. I didn't know about the muffler pressure being enough for the Cline. I had my cline running with crankcase pressure. Interesting observation you made about the mid range load ups with the perry pump on a regular carb. I think I may have been experiencing that a little bit with the Tower 46 I had it hooked up to. Now I have a decision to make. Hmmmmmmmmm. Thanks, Mike
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From: Vineland,
NJ
The Perry is less expensive to buy, but without the carb it's a bit frustrating. I fly with a lot of throttle work so spool up time and transition are very important. The Cline works well for me.
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From: Cedarville,
CA
I used a Perry pump in a plane that had the fuel
tank a bit low creating some fuel feed problems.
The engine was an ASP 65 and I activated the pump
off of the exhaust. It seemed to have enough pulse
from the exhaust to do the job and solved the fuel
feed issue. I have not tried doing the same thing
with a 2st but it may work also depending on
the application.
I also have a Cline system that I have not used
yet but expect that it will work fine.
My 2cents
Sam
tank a bit low creating some fuel feed problems.
The engine was an ASP 65 and I activated the pump
off of the exhaust. It seemed to have enough pulse
from the exhaust to do the job and solved the fuel
feed issue. I have not tried doing the same thing
with a 2st but it may work also depending on
the application.
I also have a Cline system that I have not used
yet but expect that it will work fine.
My 2cents
Sam
#6
I have used it, if your midrange is rich you back off on the pressure adjustment. A Perry carb should never be a problem! If your carb has a rich midrange before using the Perry pump, then maybe you need a new carb.
#7
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The midrange seemed to load up somewhat but this was with a Tower carb not a perry. Are you saying that if the midrange is loading up on the Tower carb which is very similar to an OS carb that I only have to back off the hex screw at the back of the pump? Or is it that the Tower carb is uncompatable with the Perry pump? Confused but trying to understand and appreciate the feedback very much. Thanks Mike. PS: RCuniverse is a great site!
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From: Vineland,
NJ
I don't think he meant that the tower carb will take the place of or work better than the Perry. If you don't want to change the carb as Perry/Varsanne/Conley recommend, get the Cline. It isn't neccessary since the Cline is a demand and not a pump system_Bob
#9
I mean't to say that if you had a carb which did not have a rich midrange problem before the pump, then you should not need a Perry carb! Yes you back off the hex head screw on the back of the pump. One way to do this is to adjust the carb as you normally would without the pump. Attach the pump and adjust the hex head screw until you get a mixture which is noticably richer than it was before. Then lean out the high speed needle as you normally would, and adjust the low speed needle for a good transition. The midrange should be as it was or just slightly rich. If to rich then back off the hex head screw about 1/8 of a turn and check the high speed, being sure that you can adjust it so that your engine is too rich, but then of course you adjust it to a proper setting.



