Raven_0-1

I have the chance to buy one of these but have a few questions to post. It is about 20 yrs old, Austrian made, new in box - never run.

- Is this more of a novelty?
- Does anyone know what this is worth?
- Is it airworthy or more of a display engine?

Thanks!

JimTrainor

They're still made, although not in Austria anymore: http://www.mecoa.com/hp/vt/49.htm

I have one (from Austria)... plan to fly it someday... but I think of it more as a novelty, but not so special that I wouldn't put it a risk.

I haven't run mine yet. I only know what I've read and that is: it will run fine, be somewhat under powered for its size, be very quiet.

longdan

I have a VT.25 that is Austrian made that I got NIB. I am running it in at the moment (these things take a lot of running in time). I wasn't sure either of what to do with it. They are heavy, low revving and don't have much torque. But, on the other hand, they are quiet and smooth and they use next to no fuel. I am getting run times of 5-6 minutes on a 1 oz tank.
I decided to fly the thing, after all, engines are made to be flown. It is just too nice to be left in it's box (some would say it is too nice to put in a plane). I looked around for a suitable ARF or kit, but there just isn't much around that would suit it. It needed to be a fairly slow flying plane with a light wing loading, that would have been suitable for about a .15-.20 2 stroke. In the end, I found some plans for an old high wing 3 ch trainer designed in the '70s, and I am building that at the moment.
I can't wait to get it finished and actually fly the engine.

XJet

I've got a VT21 and it's a gem of an engine -- absolutely gutless -- but a gem.

When they were released, the 21 was claimed to do around .32HP but all the engine tests of the day (early 1980s) measured them at around about 0.23-0.26HP, hardly enough to pull the skin off a rice-pudding.

But they are *so* quiet. My 21 is in a Piper Cub right now and it is way quieter than an electric. It spins a 9x5 MAS Scimitar at 9,500 RPMs which ain't a lot.

I don't know about the 49 but the 21 is a rever, not a torquer. It develops maximum HP at around 12,500 RPMs so if you want max power they should be propped for around 11,000 RPMs on the ground (a 8x5 is a good prop for this).

Stoneweapon

I have had a VT49 and tried it out on a test stand. It ran not as fine as the 4-strokes from OS but it is a nice piece of engineering and craftmanship and this is also something I am enjoing on model engines. It did not have very good throttle response but once at full throttle it ran stable.
The problem seems to be the connection to the muffler , tank and the Head to lubricate the bearing of the rotary valve.
There is two different types of that bearings. One is just brass and the other version has a needle bearing.
That bearing should always be well lubricated because it receives high stress from combustion pressure and rotates 1/2 of the engines RPM.

Regarding of the price I think it can bring a big amount from a collector if it is really never run.
May be you can trade it with a collector to a one that is like new but already ran once and get some extra bucks (If this is an issue for your hobby budged). Otherwise just run it but lube the engine with good synthetic oil before first use.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Re: the VT-21. I recall seeing a video posted at one time, of a model plane with the VT-21 in it. The model was one of the old free flight type designs, something like a Quaker. The plane was flying around at dusk, basking in the golden glow of the fading light. The engine was purring like a sewing machine. Absolutely magical. If you ever saw that video, you would understand the reason for these fine little engines.

AMB

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr I picked up one NIB a couple of years ago at a swap meet, the original from Austria. the chap could never get it to run, he had it plumbed wrong, I benched it and instant light off at idle all you heard was a quiet putt putt, the whoosh of the prop was louder. I should have kept it but folded , and it was sold to a chap in the UK
it was little gem of an engine. martin

longdan

It seems that there are more of these things being sold NIB than used. Maybe people thought they would be collectors items and so never ran them?

Raven_0-1

Thanks for the info guys.

Any idea on what to offer for this?

longdan

I guess it depends on what the seller knows about them. Is it the roller bearing head or bronze bushed head?
You could point out the negative things (heavy, inability to rev or produce a lot of torque) and make a low offer.
Keep in mind that MECOA sells the bearing head engine for $319.99 and the bushed head for $304.99.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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I owned and flew an HP VT.49 for a season or so. It was not on my main plane, but it got a fair amount of usage as I gave free flying lessons to guests at the field on a regular basis. Mine powered a Sig Kadet Sr. (kit built) very well. It is the easiest starting engine that I have ever owned and it produces enough power to fly the same models that you would choose to fly if you owned a Saito .50 or OS .52 four-stroke.

Mine was the bushing head model and did not seem to suffer because of it. It revved up easily and would have out revved the poppet valve engines easily with a smaller propeller because there was no chance of valve float. Didn't have any valves, just a rotating drum with ports, which are impossible to "float".

You need to pull the carb first thing and run a bead of silicone glue around the spiggot base, next to the carb proper. Refit it to the engine, cinch it down snuggling (not over doing it) and let it sit for 24 hours before you try to run it.

Also pay special attention to which glow plugs you use. Never use a long reach glow plug with an idle bar. Never use a four-stroke plug that has an extended tip. Why? Because if the plug is too long, it will interfere with the drum valve. Do that once and it can cost you a bit to get things back to working order.

Also, use no more than 5% nitro in this engine. It is set up to run on zero nitro fuel, but you can sneak by with 5%. If the engine starts to making a sizzling/frying sound when using 5% nitro in the summer time and you cannot reduce the nitro percentage, drop back an inch in diameter on the prop size (do not add more pitch!) and be sure to keep it a click or two richer than normal, which is a click or two richer than peak. Do these things and you will amaze your fellow club members as being the genius that figured out how to run one of these engines successfully. This engine tolerates running much faster than other four-strokes with poppet valves. You won't hurt it running the smaller prop.

Don't forget the after run oil and your engine should last a good many years of regular usage. Forget the crap about being weak. They are not that much down on power once broken-in, BUT they are made of good metal and will take a while to break-in. Getting better all the time.

This engine was made in a case designed for a .61 displacement, so it is going to be a little heavy. Choose biplanes that need nose weight and you'll be right in there with the guys flying Saitos and OS that are flying the same model and carrying 5 to 6 ounces of lead for balance. <G>


Ed Cregger

empire-uhren

Hello!
Please see :

http://www.empireuhren.de/detailseit...te=575&back=17

Greetings from Germany