Hello
Finally Idecided to switch to a cline regulator after allo the suggestions I received here.
Three questions:
1)How do I connect the check valve, is it contained in the tubing, I mean do I have to push it inside the pressure line tubing?
2) I am using a perry remote needle because of the postion of my Moki 1.35 inside the cowl, do I have to put the regulator between the remote needle valve and the carb needle?
3)If any problem connecting the stock check valve could I use a Perry check valve I have lying around? I am afraid because the instructions says that the stock check valve is designed for high frequency....


Thanks in advance
Omar

The check valve is installed in the tubing

The Cline has to be before your remote needle

You can use another brand of check valve as long as it is compatible with glow fuel

Not sure who took my order when I called Cline last week but they asked me if I had a remote needle which I do and he said put it between the needle and the carb and it would work much better

I always put them before the needle but I could see it working the other way.

In actuality the closer to the spray bar on the carburetor the better. Therefore the mounting between the remote needle and the carburetor would provide more stable operation in different attitudes of the plane, the fact that you are metering the overall fuel flow at a higher pressure would be a trade off?

It's six of one and a half dozen of the other? Probably best to try it like Mr Cline said first? The main thing is that the engine runs good for you. If it doesn't run in a stable manor then you can try it before the needle valve?

Jim, I've run several Clines over the years and it has always been my contention that the needle valve dampens the low pressure pulses when placed between the regulator and the spray bar. It's more dificult to get it rich that way.

I should qualify that by saying my testing isn't very scientific.

Most likely it was Jim Cline to whom you spoke. Generally it is either Jim or his wife who take the orders.

If you want to ask the designer venture the price of a phone call and talk directly with Jim----he knows a lot about engines not to mention his own regulator.

Give it a try as there will be no guess work involved and you can ask (and receive an answer) as to WHY.

Yes, he will talk to you at considerable length if it is your call.

I called him once about repair parts and operating parameters of the regulator. He was very informative.

I may have to call him it's been 8 days and no regulator yet

I put the regulator as close to the carb as possible. I usually cut a piece of fuel tubing about 3/4" long and hook one side to the Cline and the other side to the carb. As close a possible.

I have not had much luck running the Cline with a remote needle.

The absolute best way to hook it up -- IMO is to have the needle in the carb. Put the Cline as close as you can get it to the carb.

The check valve simply pushes up into the fuel tubing. Keep the check valve as close as you can get it to the backplate. Push it up inside the tubing about 3/4" and then push the tubing on your pressure nipple in the backplate. Done. It really works great and is very simple.

You do not have to tune the engine as rich as normal. Remember, we tune glow engines rich to compensate for the lean condition when the tank gets low on fuel at the end of the flight. The Cline--with a pressurized fuel tank--will suck every last drop out of the tank. You do not have to worry about the engine going lean at the end of the tank.

Tune the engine for max RPM and back the needle up about 3 clicks. Point the nose up at full throttle. It should just run.

Tuning the low end is going to take some PRECISE tinkering. The Cline only does what you tell it to do. If you do not tune the low end lean enough--you will flood the engine and be plagued with rough transitions and poor running at idle. This is NOT the fault of the Cline. You need to tune the low speed perfectly.

You will actually have to richen the low speed needle to make it run properly with the Cline installed--but you should not willy nilly open it 1/2 turn and call it good. Spend the time to tweak the low speed needle for perfect idle and good transition after extended idling. The engine should be able to idle an entire tank and snap to full throttle when you ask. If your engine does not idle for at LEAST 45 seconds and then transition smoothly to full throttle--you're not done tuning the low speed needle. It WILL run perfectly--if you spend the time to tweak it.

Good luck. I really wouldn't run it with a remote needle, but I'll be proud of you, if you can make it work. [sm=thumbup.gif]

RC, my experience has been that if you set an engine up on a test stand under ideal conditions without the Cline or IronBay then put the regulator on there will be no change in the way the engine operates no matter what the new conditions are. Also the remote needle would have no effect on it at all.

The only bummer is I'll have to get a new carb with a needle on the carb no port on this carb

Why a new carb

I find that I have to run my high speed needle about 1 turn out from where it would be without a Cline. And the low speed needle usually ends up about 1/2 turn out from where it was before the Cline installation. It varies from engine too engine and different planes and setups. But thats generally how it works for me.

Could have something to do with thinner air--lower atmospheric pressure-- up here in Denver. Not 100% sure, but thats how it seams to work out with most of the engines I've run with a Cline.

I never had much luck running them on remote needles. But then again, I am severely biased too--I hate remote needles anyway.

If the remote needle becomes a problem it's a tower 46 no needle mount on the carb

RC, you're about 1,000 times higher above sea level than I am since I'm about 7 feet. Since atmospheric pressure pushes the diaphragm you may have something there.

Ski, I ran a Cline on a MDS 1.48 converted to Diesel with a remote needle and I have remote needles on 4 OS LA's and this Fitzpatrick Diesel. It's a non issue.

I'm 100% behind the: set the engine up without the Cline Reg' (or a Perry pump for that matter) first, approach.
Only then, went the engines running just fine, naked, hook up the gizmo and monitor the results.
The other way round can see you chasing any number of problems without knowing where they originate from.
I think you'll find it just fine with the remote needle but set it up to run absolutely perfectly, without the cline, first.
Good luck.

An additional question
Is there anything wrong on tieing the regulator to the engine mount? no soft mount, straight link
I just don't want to have it hanging it lose altough I have been told there's no issue of having it lose buit I jus don't want to have it there rubbing it to everything
Thansk in advance
Regards

The same design works great on chain saws and weed whacker carbs and they are vibration city