apaloosa

andrewgovernale

the speed 36 was back ordered so I recently received it. It is a beautiful motor. I have been in this hobby for more than 30 years and always wanted one. (they were very popular when I was a kid and now I understand why.) I think I am going to take your advice (rotating the carb w/o modification) for a few reasons:

First, with the carb rotated with the needle valve just a little back gives me just a little more room from the prop.
Secondly, if I rotate the carb with the needle a little back, it becomes more of a direct run for the fuel line,
and finally, the modification seems straightforward but I do not want to damage the carb.

All the outlaws I have seen have a custom muffler on them. I have a tuned pipe from a HB 40 (about 25 years old) that seems like it will be a good match for the Webra. Anyone have any success with pipe on the outlaw?

andrewgovernale

ArthurD -

Just found your pictures of the outlaw with the 36 on it! Very nice. From what I have read, it seems the 9x7 is a good size prop for it. I have a older 40 size muffled pipe... what length do you recommend I cut the header to as a starting point?


Andrew

ArthurD

Andrew,
Header length..........
Mine measures exactly 3 inches, measuring at the outside of the curved pipe, the long way arond. Begin at the weld and cut at 3 inches.
A few other things I learned (the hard way) are.....
- The OS R5 plug works very well and last a relatively long time.
- The APC 9 x 7 prop is the fastest on the Outlaw
- Morgan 10% fuel gives good power and plugs last longer.
- Richen the HS needle about 400 lower than peak RPM
- Boca has ceramic bearings for the .36. The kit of two bearings (one set) is # ENK-004C-HP and costs about $80

Arthur

albsurfer

Webras are some of the best going. I bought a used .61 Speed that was pretty old. When I fired it up, rust came out of the engine. I took it apart and saw that the bearings had begun to rust because it had sat around too long. The thing ran great! I made the mistake of taking the carb apart to clean it and it would stick no matter what I did after that. I should have the grime alone. I am in the process of looking for another now.

rene69

Arthur, if you want some Rossi's R5, I have like 50 of them and I can sell you some, if you want them. I used them on the Rossi 60 that were popular in Pattern in the 80.

andrewgovernale

Arthur, Thx. I will hold off on the bearings until the factory ones are out of spec.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

I have the 36 on an Outlaw as well. I agree that the APC 9x7 is the best prop and Morgan 10% is a good compromise as well. I've run 5% with good results as well. I have the Jett(Stream) muffler and can achieve ~ 15,500 on the 9x7 prop. I've yet to find an Outlaw in my area (there are many) that's faster. Even the guys with 8x8 and full tuned pipes are amazed.
I'm fully impressed with my .36.

Thanks for the tip on the R5, I'll have to try one.

Strykaas

Jeff, don't you have leaning issues when performing Hi G manoeuvers with your Outlaw on Jettstream muffler pressure ?

Taurus Flyer

Gents,

We are all little bit Webra minded,
1,5 cc diesel “Record� for C/L,
two 3,5 CC “Glo Star� on my trainers,
Speed 10 ccm 0.60 for contest,

And many other brands so I can compare.

On the pictures:
Still never used and for I long time mounted on a Schlüter “Heli Baby� chopper a 6,5 ccm “Black Head�.

The power source for my new “Wester� Taurus.
The plane will fly with a muffler but to make the authentic pictures without.
Taurus Flyer,

Thread, Classic Pattern Flying: Redesign and reconstruction of the oldest Taurus on Earth

spanishflyer

Hi!

I built a Twin air 45, an have installed 2 webra 50gt, I´m very happy with them, very powerful I think, they get 11.5k with 12/7 graupner g sonic. Fuel 10% nitro 18% KL200 Synthetic
I broke-in them in a trainer separately, they both were a bit rough at the beginning but after 3 tanks they seemed to wake up.
They have TN carb, one funny thing is that low needle screw is more responsible in mid range than OS carbs, in fact I spent (invested in my opinion) a bit time in getting a good transition, result is a perfect transition without hesitations.
The fact is that in my twin they work perfect,and with futaba 12z they run wit a max difference of 50-100 rpm.
One of them stopped in air but I discovered a kicked silicone!!!!!!!!!.
I would buy them again.

This is my experience with webra, I hope this helps people with doubts..

CustomPC

I've just bought myself a Webra .91 P-5.

My first impression when i opened the box was wow, this is a big lump of an engine. I'd have to double check when i get home, but it looks and feels like it's dimensionally bigger than an OS 1.20AX. It should be 2oz lighter though.

I've got a Jett Engineering TurboJett in-cowl muffler for it and plan on giving it a test run this weekend.

Any ideas on what prop sizes i should run?

I'm thinking 15x8 should be about right for the model i'm intending to use it in which is a .90 sized Kyosho Spitfire ARF.

I have the following props:

APC 14x7, 14x10 and 15x8
MAS Schimitar 15x8 and 16x6 (i think)
Graupner 14x7 and 14x11
Xoar 15x8 and 16x8
Bolly 13.5x8

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Cus, I run an APC 14x12 on my P-5 which it now turns about 8,400, the 14x12 is the smallest prop recommended by Webra. In the case of this engine the extra metal/weight is a good thing since this engine is designed to work hard at sub 9,000 rpm.
Case in point, I tried the 14x12 on my SuperTigre .91 and only managed 7,300 rpm and quickly got very hot but my MVVS .91 turned the 14x12 at 8,100 and seemed to handle it with no complaints. What did you get for a muffler?

PS, you'll love the sound if you have this same muffler.

CustomPC

Hobbsy,

I didn't order the Webra muffler just yet, although the local distributor has the same as yours for AU$110 (approx US$77) if i need one. Is that part number 1100/190 or 1100/193?

I have a spare Turbo-Jett muffler from www.jettengineering.com and wanted to see if it would fit the Webra.
As it turns out the port on the Turbo-Jett is a near perfect match for the port on the Webra so i'm happy with the fit and will see how it performs on the weekend. I believe it's tuned for 9-11k rpm so it should work well.

My motor weighs in a bit more than the factory specs at 624gm (22oz) with carb and glow plug fitted.

My muffler is 196gm (6.9oz) which is a bit heavier than a bisson pitts or even the stock muffler.

What plane do you use the P-5 in? I'm thinking either a .90 sized Spitfire or a Great Planes Venus II for this engine. I can't decide which way i want to go yet. Scale or Sports/Pattern.

CustomPC

I got to run the .91 p-5 on the test stand today. I was using 20% castor and 80% Methanol, as per the manual.

I put about 60oz of fuel through it on a half dozen or more runs. It's easy to start and did not quit once unless i deliberately shut it off.

I started with a 14x7 for a light load before moving up to a 15x8. I was running it deliberately rich and wasn't really concerned about peak rpms so i kept the needle fat just on that verge between 4-cycle and 2-cycle. Occasionally i would pinch the fuel tube or lift the test stand nose high to lean it out slightly and break into a smooth 2-cycle rythm. I tached 8,500rpm with the 15x8 when i pinched the fuel tube and it settled straight back down to 7,000 when i release it.

Was impressed me most was how consistently it held rpm. At the end of the day it would hold a reliable idle of 1500rpm.

The Turbo-Jett muffler is pretty quiet and has a good note when the revs get higher.

One thing i've noticed when i got back home is that there is a pool of after-run just below the carb, on the right hand side of the engine. The carb O-ring looks dry so i don't think it is leaking from there, but it could be coming from the carb retaining pin. Should i be concerned about that?

chrome350

My Feedback: (66)

I've got a Webra .36 on an Outlaw. I'm having trouble killing the motor while in the air. I'm able to kill it while on the bench and the carb barrel is closing fully. When I try to kill it in the air before I land it won't shut off. I can't find any air leaks. Any ideas?? Also, what fuel and glow plugs are you guys using? I'm currently using Omega 15% with an OS#8 plug.

Thanks,
Larry

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Lookie what I found.

I suggest having the coffee ready for this one...

stg61abc

Great article Jetpack, thanks.
Do you have it in PDF ?

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

No, I wish. It was shown with a Dynamix auction on eBay so I scooped it. It would be nice to have a crisp copy though I know what you mean.

If you open each and save it to your desktop and then open it in picture viewer, you can zoom in and be able to read it a little better, plus have it on your computer.

I cleaned up my copies using a photo program. Might be a little better this time. Instead of editing the past post with them I'll just re-post the brighter copies here...

Larry's problem I have no clue why the motor won't shut down and I have to guess with him about the air leak but the only thing I can think of is the carb body is worn enough to not bring a full seal. Some Webra's carry an O ring on the barrel that might be hard. Maybe try red grease on the barrel to try and seal it and see what happens. Red grease does not dissolve in alcohol but will eventually leave.

Kenny w

My Feedback: (31)

I just bought a Webra speed 120 Does anyone have any experiance with these engine. Also where can you get parts for them? I need the prop washer and nut.

maekju

Hey Kenny. I have a Webra speed 120 I bought on ebay about 8 years ago. Looks like it may have been run up once or twice. Guess what I need for it........a prop washer and nut. I also need a needle valve. Looks like it got bent during shipping. I may be able to straighten it out but if I brake it I'll need another one. Looks like Pauls Model Supply still works on them paulsmodelsupply.com. I was thinking about putting it on my GB 10-300 Ultimate kit or use my YS 120SC, both are heavy engines. Back in the 70's and early 80's guys were dying to get their hands on a Webra. Maybe that's why I got this one.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Here is an update on my latest request for a US distributor of Webra engine parts from Webra-Austria 1/12/2010.

[link=http://www.swanyshouse.com/index.aspx]SwanysHouse[/link]

I'm almost done restoring a marine 60 and need 3.5 x 10 head screws, head and case gaskets and header to finish it.

Deposits were like tar in this engine, but after a slow cook and aircraft stripper the engine has very little cylinder and conrod wear and finished up as a nice motor. The first one I did is in the last picture next to this one after aircraft stripper to the cases.

This newest one has a larger brass flywheel than the first but its chrome plating is stained and chipping. I wish there was a home remedy to strip it but everything I've read said its better to send it off.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Here's a good article with lots of great info on the Speed 40

Does anyone have an engine review for the Speed 20 and 61? Those are the other two motors I have.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Long time no see JP...how ya been? Nice article BTW...thanks
Wish I did have the write-up on the Speed .61 and the .50GT (anyone? )

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Proptop! Been doing okay! Soon I'll be ordering square tubing for my benches and machine stands for the woodshop Still reworking my old aquired Webra marines. Slow process but all thats left is a little bit of carb work which I don't mind one bit Getting everything standardized with what has been collected has been a real journey.

That Speed 40 article I posted is out of an old publication I spent my own denero on just to have it. Brought free to everyone here no charge just because this thread needed some updating! [sm=tongue_smile.gif]



Andrew, one thing I have noticed about Webra motors is the front housing is always 1mm longer than the front bearing.

If you need more room between your prop and carb, try looking for a wider front bearing. They usually come in two width sizes for the ones I've been having to replace in my Webra's.

This will stand the prop driver hub out another 1 or 2mm from the carb and has no drawbacks other than lessening the air trap between the prop plate and the lip of the case which really isn't that big of deal.

Keep that in mind if you run into problems with carb clearance next time. I've had it happen with my marine flywheels and trying to fit a Dynamix to my little 20's.