FTmustang65

My Feedback: (6)

Hello,
I purchased this engine about 8 months ago it was brand new from 1984 never ran flow etc. I recently put it on a cub and hooked everything up ( I have it mounted inverted) and something just was not right. It felt as if it had a hydaulic block from fuel, but it was not from fuel. It also has some clicking nose at a certain rotation point. So i decided to tear it down after it would not fire at all. The firing part could be do to something else I am not sure , but the noises were definately something that needed to be looked at. After I tore it down I realized it probably was not the best Idea. Some of my questions are:
1.Howdo you get the Taper collet & drive flange off and pull the cam shaft. Beacuase I believe I need to remove the bearings. When I spin the cam from the back with everything off I hear a constant clicking and it seems like it comes from the bearings.
2.The only parts I have found on horizon are for the golden knight 80AAC can I still use the bearings and gaskets and stuff?
3. Do I need to replace the gaskets because it is brand new?
4. I found a chip in the crankcase will it cause a problem I will attache a picture?
5. Will this engine run inverted?
6. There was a hard piece of black rubber, gasket, or plastic above the cylinder head its in the picture and so is the head could that have been a problem?
Any help would be great thank you.
Henry

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Sorry, but that engine has been run a lot by some one, that is a very high compression engine, about 15.6 to 1 if I remember correctly. The cam clicking is normal if the lifters were still in their bores. You surely flooded it when it was inverted. Do you have a picture of the outside of the cylinder, Thanks.

PS, the cam bearings will outlast you under normal circumstances, you should reassemble it, puit it in a test stand and start it up and set up the carbs screws while in the upright position.

FTmustang65

My Feedback: (6)

You really think it was ran what is the indication? The inside of the crankcase? What do you mean the outside of the cylinder for the picture. And I cleaned it out with alcohol is that bad? Should I regrease the bearings? Also if I did not pull the cam pinion gear or anything I should not have to time anything right?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The chip you see in the crankcase is porosity in the crankcase casting

The engine may have bad crankshaft bearings (rust)? But as Hobbsy says, the cam bearings will outlast you.

The piece of trash in the cylinder doesn't appear to have been hitting anything

FTmustang65

My Feedback: (6)

sorry being stupid here is the pic its the only one I have

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Lets see a picture of the rear bearing from the rear of the crankcase

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The piston appears to have combustion product stains down the side, the crankpin has circles indicating it has turned a whole more times than a few flips would cause.

FTmustang65

My Feedback: (6)

No no rust anywhere on the thing I will add a couple more pics. The crankshaft bearing is the one that is loud do you think i could order the one from horizon for the FA-80 goldenknight AAC?

FTmustang65

My Feedback: (6)

Hobbsy I turned it a bunch with an electric starter could that have done it?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

To get the taper prop drive collet off in order to slide the crank out you will need a clamp device to crip the indention in the drive washer

And a gear puller These can be bought from Harbor Freight as a set

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=7343
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=8832

FTmustang65

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks w8ye I will check them out what do you think I should do replace the rear bearing or put it back together and try to run it?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I don't see any rust on the crankshaft rear bearing

As Hobbsy says, The click click when you turned the assembled engine ove is normal - it is the cam followers

FTmustang65

My Feedback: (6)

Can I just put it back together with out timing anything because I didnt pull the camshaft?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Now your problem is how to get it back together

FTmustang65

My Feedback: (6)

Haha ya you are right did you see my last post? I can just assemble it back together with out setting it to TDC because I did not pull the cam correct? Or do I have to do something special?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You need to know which side of the piston goes towards the front
That the small end of the push rods goes to the top
and set the valves at .002"-.004"

The cam timing will be OK
Don't worry about the gaskets

FTmustang65

My Feedback: (6)

Ok I know the push rod side, What I am confused on is what side of the piston goes towards the front and when I am setting the valves should I be in TDC? The book says Valves must be in the
compression stroke or closed position
as shown in Figure 2 below. When
adjustment is completed, make sure
you tighten the lock nut
but I do not understand how to tell if I am in the compression stroke?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

At Top dead center there are two positions

One is where the piston is at top dead center and both valves closed - this is the one you want

The other is both valves are partially open - one is closing and the other is opening - you don't want this one

To set the piston on correctly - look at the connecting rod big end - one side has a little bevel to the edge of the bearing and the other side is straight.

The side of the connecting rod with the none tapered edge on the bearing has little funny swirl marks on the face of the connecting rod

The tapered side of the bearing in the rod goes towards the crankshaft or the front of the engine

The side of the rod with the little swirlly marks where it was rubbing on the back plate goes towards the back plate

FTmustang65

My Feedback: (6)

Thank you so much for all the help, but one more question I have an osA5 in it right now should I be using a different Plug? Thanks again

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Yes that is a short 2 stroke plug. I saw that it did not have a current style four stroke plug and you said the engine was old so I thought it was a McCoy MC4

You need a OS "F" four stroke plug

FTmustang65

My Feedback: (6)

Could that be why it was not firing and this is correct for the connecting rod correct?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The plug probably had a lot to do with it not firing

I cannot tell much about your rod bearing in the picture. It looks to me like you might have the tapered end of the bearing to the rear?

I don't see any funny swirl marks on the face of the rod?

It may be backwards?

FTmustang65

My Feedback: (6)

I hate to pull it apart again but the bearing is noticeably tapered on the side facing the prop and the pic I showed you has the flat side of the bearing facing us. I did not see any swirls on anything on the other side facing the prop there is perfect circles on the rod connecting end circling the bearing. I did not take out the bearing either. So if it has to do with taper on the bearing it is towards the prop side is this right?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

That is correct