tweaker

Hello all!
Just picked up the engine in question and was reading that
the fuel the manufacturer recommends for break-in is supposed to be 80% methanol,20% oil content,(all castor),and no more than 10% nitro.
Why would they not recommend synthetic oil in the break-in?
I don't want to cook the motor!
What i have done so far:
Flushed the engine with rubbing alcohol (i saw particles in the motor)
used castor oil as lubricant as i re-assembled it.
A3 glow plug
The fuel i have is 80% methanol,20% oil (75% synthetic 25% castor) 10% nitro.
Will that be alright or am i just worrying too much?
Yes, i read the (break-in taper engines thread) and many other and i don't plan on 4 cycling it.
Any and all advice will be appreciated
Thank you,
Steve

adrian-RCU

you seem to have it under control so run it and let us know

tweaker

Should i perhaps add extra castor?
Which would bring up the total oil content
I am limited as to the fuel i can get here.
I'd have to drive 4 hours to get stuff without synthetic in it.

Matt Kirsch

My Feedback: (21)

They don't recommend synthetic oil for the breakin so you WON'T cook your motor. In general, ABC engines should be operated on fuel with at least a little castor oil content.

Synthetic oils begin to burn at lower temperatures than castor, so castor affords a little extra protection if your engine goes lean.

BackAfter20

My Feedback: (5)

I wrote to their support department with a similar question. They responded that the Omega fuel I was using would be fine.

I believe their intent is for you to have some castor in your fuel to minimize the chance of damaging your motor due to any possible high temperatures. The synthetics supposedly burn off and stop lubricating at lower temperatures than castor.

I run partial castor (Omega 15%) in all my glow engines. It's messier than the all-synthetic fuels, and it might eventually cause some build-up on the exhaust valves of my 4-strokes, but I can easily clean the valves, and I prefer the added insurance.

On the other hand, plenty of folks in this forum say they run full synthetics without a problem. Just make sure you don't ever run lean.

tweaker

Well,what the manufacturer is suggesting(all castor) seems to imply that their engine is gonna get pretty hot when breaking it in and that's what i mean.I don't want a dead horse once broken in.

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

I ran mine on the break-in bench and in the air on Omega 10% which is a castor blend fuel. Good running engine. Does not like to be real wet to hand start. Runs good in the air. Plenty of power.

I have mine on an old Balsa USA Sting Ray that I use for in-the-air break-ins for this size engine. It gives it great vertical.

I have the engine ear marked for a Goldberg Extreme 330 I have so I am running an APC 12.25x3.75. I haven't gotten around to an APC 12-4 yet.

tweaker

Ok! i'll try it as is.
Thank you for all the quick replies.
I'll be sure to post results.
Steve

tweaker

Works like a charm!!
Reason i was so concerned is i had a 53 magnum that never worked right from the get go.
This one here,the top of the piston has a really shiny line at the top which is between 1/16-1/8th of an inch which would seem to indicate it's starting to fit the way it is supposed to be or is it??
The 53 never did that.
I broke it in this way:
Finally got it started(it was really rich ,leaned her to where she would rev up WOT,left her fairly rich and it was boucing between12300-14000 on the 10-6apc,left her there 10 min.
let her cool
Ran her WOT 10 mins
let her cool
ran one more time 10 mins
By the 3rd tank it was steady at 14100-14200
I did absolutely no idling,once started it was WOT.
set the low speed 2800-2900 excellent transition,no slobbering midrange like the 53.
I really hope my GP super sportster can finally do a torque roll!
Way too windy to try it today.
Thanks again to all!! :sunsmiley