Gunthr

Got a brand spankin new Saito 40a. Does anybody take the time to take the backplate off a new Saito engine to check for any leavings from the manufacturing process? Should I be concerned about this?

Also, the guy gave me 5% nitro, 20% oil ( 50-50 castor and Klotz).
The manual says 10-15 nitro with 20% lubracation. Should I take the %5 percent nitro back?

barto

I think not, you don't really need nitro anyway. At my club there is a guy who's been flying rc for over 30 years and he has never used nitro. He flies a 25cc with 20%oil and no nitro.

pikebishop

50 percent castor could eventually cause some valve problems due to varnish.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

If you do take the backplate off you won't find anything except maybe some black grease to get the bearings off to a good start. Bigger Saitos run on 5% nitro much better than the small ones, my .30 runs well on 5% but the idle is pretty shakey. Yours will run super on WildCat 15% Premium Plus, it has 18% oil of which about 2% is castor and the rest syn.

Gunthr

okey dokey Thanks. I think I'll just leave the backplate on and get the recommended 10 - 15 percent nitro and 20% oil for break-in.

I already don't know what I'm doing - its my first 4 stroker - so I don't want to be chasing my tail trying to tune this thing due to low nitro. I read somewhere that the idle does benifit from the higher nitro.

I almost got my moneys worth from just looking at and holding this engine... its a beauty!

thanks for the replies

donkey doctor

Hello; I'm glad you like your new engine, I have taken new engines apart to look inside, but then I am a mechanic with the proper tools and years of experience. I think I wouldn't reccomend most people doing this, but it's yours bought and paid for, and if that is what it takes to cure your curiosity, who am I to say? If you do take it apart, be sure to time the cam properly when you re-assemble it.

Gunthr

Hi DD

Thanks for the advice about timing the cam when re-assembling.

I decided not to take it apart for fun, but if I ever have to - ie, when the engine is down anyway - then I will take it apart and I'll remember what you said.

Tomorrow is the big day.

I just finished making a heavy - duty test stand with a friction throttle lever. I balanced the recommended prop, an APC? 11X5. I got the recommended fuel, 15% nitro x 20% oil ( 50-50 castor/Klotz). I got an in-line fuel filter. I got my Hot Shot and Electric starter charged up. I got my Glo-Bee tach ready to go with new batterys. I got the owner's manual opened up on the bench.

I think I'm ready. I'll report back....

JP 3D FLYR

i run all my 4 strokes on 30% heli tons of power for aerobatics and cool smoke trail.

Gunthr

I'm very happy to report no problems so far.

Before starting for the first time I followed the instructions and dribbled light oil down the push rod tubes and and also put oil in the crankcase breather.

The engine started immediately... just as soon as I triggered the elec starter. I'm idling it now at 3k and will run a quart of fuel thru and then shut it down to adjust the tappets. I'm a happy camper.

Gunthr

For other newbys like myself, I just wanted to add a warning when breaking in the Saito 40a, at least in Florida...

I simply followed directions in the manual for break-in and everything went well.

One thing surprised me though.

HYDROLOCK.

It was a good thing I followed the directions on turning the propeller thru by hand before starting because after refilling each tank, it hydrolocked. Had I applied the starter w/out pulling the prop thru I might have bent a rod.

My engine hydrolocked after each refueling. I pulled the prop thru (with the hotshot off) and came against a hard lock where the compression is. I just held it against the lock until it gave way, without forcing it too much. Then round and round until the prop turns relatively easy again. If I had just been my usual self and went ahead without reading the manual, I would have been screwed.

Bear in mind, Im in Florida. The carb was ice cold to the touch with condensation dripping off it while running, while the head was hot. Dont know if that has anything to do with it.

I've run a quart and a half thru this engine. I haven't yet set the high speed or low speed needles. It idled at about 1900 rpm for 45 minutes straight on the last tank before I got rained out.