MScooling

I've got an AP .061 Wasp and it has been nothing but hell.

Problem: Engine will not stay lit from anywhere between idle and 3/4 throttle. It will just randomly die in the air and on the ground. Only when the glow clip is connected will the engine stay lit all the time.

So I replace the glow plug, and still the problem exists. The engine is not too rich or lean and it has been broken in with almost 20 ounces of fuel.

Now the AP manual says that if the engine randomly quits, I should add head gaskets. Well it would be nice if they INCLUDED head gaskets with the engine.

I'm using %15 fuel with the recomended prop.

I guess I'm going to have to order those $.15 head gaskets and pay $8 for shipping. Great!!

If this engine still has problems after that, its going straight to the trash can.

Mike Greenshiel

Sorry you are having problems with the engine.

1. If you need some gaskets, you could contact our service department, I'm sure they'd be happy to help.
[email protected]

2. We HIGHLY recommend switching to 25% nitro fuel. It makes a huge difference in engine performance.

3. This is a small engine so one consideration is the oil content. Our AP fuels have a higher oil content than most sport fuels on the market today. And, they have more castor. So as the directions say, the engine running hot can definately be a problem with fuel that does not have enough or the right type of oil. So, the extra gasket reduces the compression and can solve the problem.

-Mike Greenshields

Rudeboy

How about less nitro and a hotter plug?

There's no point in going to 25% nitro if the engine is over compressed...

Mike Greenshiel

Ah, but there is!

Reducing the compression is the simple act of adding a gasket. And other factors such as alititude and outside airtemperature affect this as much as the nitro content in the fuel. (and remember, we really are guessing that it is overcompressed here to a certain extent because we don't have the engine in front of us).

The higher nitro fuel will help idle and transistion.

Also, practical experience tells us that this engine is simply happier on higher nitro fuel with more oil under most flying conditions. Smaller engines simply require some different parameters than a 40 size engine.

One other point, this engine uses a glow head rather than a glow plug. We tested heads that used glowplug and found that they simply did not work as well as the glow head. So, dropping in a hotter plug is not an easy option. However, during development we tried many coils and found the one included with the engine works the best, is the most reliable, and still offers good life.

As AP engines have a warranty and a service center, the customer also has the option of sending us the engine so we can test it and make sure operationally it is correct.

MScooling

I'll go pick up a quart of %25 and give it a shot. I have been using "Omega %15 nitro" which has castor oil from what I understand.

I have this engine on a 1/2a shrike, and when the engine dies in the air it becomes a near uncontrollable dart.

So far I have had at least 18 dead sticks out of the 20+ flights on this plane, and it still had plenty of fuel.

The engine runs great at full throttle, but what's the point of having a throttled engine if it wont stay lit below full..

Anyways, Ill get back to you if the 25% doesn't solve the problem.

Thanks

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

To elaborate on the good advice given so far. Decreasing compression causes the need to lean out the needle. This in turn leans out the low end and this may be your problem,,, the low end is too rich. The best solution would be for this engine to come with an adjustable airbleed. I routinely add this feature to all my Norvels and Wasps and never have a problem with oil or nitro content.

The other improvement would be to make a bolt on muffler (which I do) for good pressure to the tank. At high speed, pressure delivery is OK but as the engine slows down, the leaky muffler delivers virtually no pressure.

On 25% fuel, my Wasps will do 18 to 19K on a black Tornado 6 X 3. Idle is all day and response is excellent.

Still, most fuels contain only 18% oil. I add enough Sig castor to take that up to at least 22% and sometimes even 25%. More oil doesn't rob power, just mileage. What it adds is longer engine life.

Remby

My Feedback: (3)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mike Greenshiel

Our AP fuels have a higher oil content than most sport fuels on the market today. And, they have more castor..



I have looked at this fuel, have had trouble finding out the oil content. I have read on the site it is pure castor, not a mix of oil. Perhaps I read the info wrong. As the engine (Wasp) requests 20% oil , it would figure the oil to be around 20%. Is this info somthing the company wishes to keep secret? I called and asked, said they would return a call with the info. Also, talked to sales, and they did not know and was unable to find the info. He did see on the site listing, the fuel's oil was pure castor, but not the precent. If this was shown, it may help the sales for people looking for this type of fuel. Let me know what you can.

thriller

My Feedback: (28)

hey 1705493 how do you make a bolt on muffler?? this engine is messy!

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

You need a lathe and a milling machine/attachment. I make a bracket that is glued on with JB Weld. This is drilled and tapped to take a Norvel .074 muffler. I use the .074 muffler because it's rigged to be bolted on. A side benefit is more volume for less restriction. The stock muffler would be OK if only they made the thing as a bolt on type.

thriller

My Feedback: (28)

do you have any pictures?

AndyW

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Need to sell my Turboplane to afford the price of a good digicam. Bought one on sale for 120 bucks but at 1 megapixel, closeups were not that clear so it went back. However, you can see a variation in Randy Randolph's column in the September 2000 issue of Flying Models, page 50. The bracket was bolted on and JB Weld was used to seal. The newer version extends the arms all the way around and the thing is simply glued in place, no bolts required. I haven't had one fail yet.

thriller

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are any of these articles online?

AndyW

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Thriller,

No, I'm afraid not. But, send me your address in a PM and I'll get copies out to you.

Lynn S

I just got my AP .061 yesterday and I love this little engine.
I'm using 25% nitro and 20% castor oil fuel. I have it pretty well broken in with 60 minutes total break-in time on a test stand.
I did the 5 min rich WOT run and 10 min cool down cycle for 9 runs. My tenth run today was a full tank of fuel (2 oz.) I alternated between high and low speeds for 15 minutes and did 5 minutes of simulated touch and go landings. The engine came on strong everytime I opened it up and did not hesitate any. It will hold a slow idle now and not die.
You have to use an electric starter and if you flood the engine all you have to do is remove the fuel line from the carb, hit the starter and it starts right up. Then connect the fuel line and it starts everytime.
The muffler produces plenty of pressure to the tank. When I start the engine with the fuel line not connected to the carb., it will spray fuel out of the fuel line when it starts. That tells me that the fuel is under good pressure.
Just follow the directions that comes with the engine and give it a proper ABC break-in. This involves the 5 min run and cool down cycles. Be sure to use 20% castor oil 1/2 A Fuel. I use Byrons fuel 25% nitro and added castor oil to bring the oil content up to 20%.
Also, I use the 1/2 A fuel line which is smaller and the engine has an excellent fuel draw with this fuel line.
I cant wait to get this engine on my Simple Extra.
Did I say I love this engine?

thriller

My Feedback: (28)

1705493 Was very helpful with getting me copies of the information I needed and mailing it to my house. THANKS VERY MUCH!!!