fixing a cracked crankcase ?
#3
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From: Burtchville,
MI
I would get my Dremel rotary tool and "V-grind" a notch in the crack being very careful to not break into the inner crankcase and have it heliarc welded by someone who has his/her stuff together. If you are real anal have it mgnafluxed by a certified aircraft technichian and if the crack is contiguous through to the mating surfaces - dicard it.
Bill
Bill
#4
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From: Storrs Mansfield,
CT
I maybe seeing things but I super enlarged the inside of the case and there is a crack that goes up to the cover surface. I would get a new case. Just my 2-cents worth. Good Luck if you weld it.
#7
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I vote for JBweld as a cheap fix. All it needs is a seal to prevent air leakage. Any thing else quickly approaches the replacement value of the engine. I would scrounge around swaps and online classifieds and such to find a dead engine with a good case. Often cheaper than new parts and you might get other good spares. This can of course take time.
#8

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Which Evolution is it? Because the .46 case is about the least expensive one I've ever seen:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=EVO046101
Try pricing a new OS case.
But... this is the part of the photo that bothers me the most.[X(]
David
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=EVO046101
Try pricing a new OS case.
But... this is the part of the photo that bothers me the most.[X(]
David
#13
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From: Burtchville,
MI
jib may be right. If you are really brave you could try JB Weld. It should take the temperature and if you clean/roughen-up the surface with lacquer thinner it should adhere well. I just used this stuff recently and it's a nice product.
Bill
Bill
#14
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From: West Covina, CA
You all have actually stated the problem. You all use the word "cheap". This is a cheap engine and you get what you pay for. You talk about OS prices but if it was an OS it wouldn't have broken the rod and damaged the crankcase in the first place. Me?? I'll spend the extra money for a good Japanese engine and not working about having to fix it.
The case and rod aren't his only problems. Check out the bearings? Rust abounds. More money. Another question. When the crankshaft crankpin hit the rod to drive it through the case, did the crankpin get bent. Won't take much to cause a serious problem.
The case and rod aren't his only problems. Check out the bearings? Rust abounds. More money. Another question. When the crankshaft crankpin hit the rod to drive it through the case, did the crankpin get bent. Won't take much to cause a serious problem.
#15
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
Cut him some slack fellas. Its apparent the conrod broke off and cracked the case. I would get a new conrod and fix the case with JB weld as structural integrity is not an issue where the crack is.The fix is to prevent any possible leak. Sometimes we get sentimental over our engines and cost conscious at that.No point paying more for the same amount of fun.
#19

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ORIGINAL: ace4-40
You all have actually stated the problem. You all use the word "cheap". This is a cheap engine and you get what you pay for. You talk about OS prices but if it was an OS it wouldn't have broken the rod and damaged the crankcase in the first place. Me?? I'll spend the extra money for a good Japanese engine and not working about having to fix it.
You all have actually stated the problem. You all use the word "cheap". This is a cheap engine and you get what you pay for. You talk about OS prices but if it was an OS it wouldn't have broken the rod and damaged the crankcase in the first place. Me?? I'll spend the extra money for a good Japanese engine and not working about having to fix it.
I guess I have to take issue with those statements. Saying that the rod broke because it wasn't an OS rod is just plain crazy. Sorry for being so blunt, but you're trashing an engine that I would vote for having more quality and value than an OS engine. Speaking of crazy, try comparing parts prices.
#20
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From: Covington,
WA
Ace4-40 & others,
Hudmun asked for help. Give advice, whether it's a specific repair or to replace the crankcase or the whole engine. Let keep the sniping down.
I pulled a TT PRO-46 from the brink. Bent crank, nasty looking siezed bearings, sized carb barrel, Castor stained exterior, etc., etc. I dissassemble and cleaned everything, straightened the crank, but only reinstalled the "cleaned up" kind-of-nasty looking bearings. I didn't want to invest even the $12-15 for bearings in this engine because I figured I was just reassembling a parts engine. That engine fired up, runs great, and has never been apart since that first time and is on a favorite and heavily used plane. It's nasty looking, but it's a performer. It's like the puppy you bring home from the pound; it's very grateful to be alive and lives every moment to the fullest.
If he wants to try to resurect on a shoestring budget, that's his choice. It may work, it may not, but don't slam him for it. Some of us enjoy the challenge of repairing what looks to be unrepairable when we can't be flying. Sometimes it's a dollar thing too.
New and OS are not the solution to everything. Variety is the spice of life.
Jack
TT GP42
TT PRO-46
OS 61
Magnum 65
ST 75
ST90
Homelite 30cc weedwacker engine, pulled out of someone's trash and in becoming ready for a big plane <grin>
EDIT: FYI - The crank in my TT PRO-46 looked much worse than the one in the picture above. I cleaned the bearing surfaces, but not much else. Internal Combustion Engines are amazing. They can run well with far worse damage than you can imagine. That is what I have found in personal experience, both RC and automotive.
Hudmun asked for help. Give advice, whether it's a specific repair or to replace the crankcase or the whole engine. Let keep the sniping down.
I pulled a TT PRO-46 from the brink. Bent crank, nasty looking siezed bearings, sized carb barrel, Castor stained exterior, etc., etc. I dissassemble and cleaned everything, straightened the crank, but only reinstalled the "cleaned up" kind-of-nasty looking bearings. I didn't want to invest even the $12-15 for bearings in this engine because I figured I was just reassembling a parts engine. That engine fired up, runs great, and has never been apart since that first time and is on a favorite and heavily used plane. It's nasty looking, but it's a performer. It's like the puppy you bring home from the pound; it's very grateful to be alive and lives every moment to the fullest.
If he wants to try to resurect on a shoestring budget, that's his choice. It may work, it may not, but don't slam him for it. Some of us enjoy the challenge of repairing what looks to be unrepairable when we can't be flying. Sometimes it's a dollar thing too.
New and OS are not the solution to everything. Variety is the spice of life.
Jack
TT GP42
TT PRO-46
OS 61
Magnum 65
ST 75
ST90
Homelite 30cc weedwacker engine, pulled out of someone's trash and in becoming ready for a big plane <grin>
EDIT: FYI - The crank in my TT PRO-46 looked much worse than the one in the picture above. I cleaned the bearing surfaces, but not much else. Internal Combustion Engines are amazing. They can run well with far worse damage than you can imagine. That is what I have found in personal experience, both RC and automotive.
#21
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From: Burtchville,
MI
Keep us posted on the Homelite. I pulled one from the trash myself. I think I'm going to buy the plans from that auction site and turn mine into an outboard boat motor. I have an Enya .19 that I saved from the grave also and she's a beautiful little engine today.
Bill
Bill
#22
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From: Storrs Mansfield,
CT
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/210770.asp has the Magnum 61 on sale for 64.99. Good Deal...
#23
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From: Burtchville,
MI
Let's dump the word "cheap" from every aspect of our vocabulary. Cheap = junk. In expensive = lower cost. I bought a used $20.00 Enya .19. It was inexpensive but anything but cheap.
Bill
Bill


