I ran the engine today for a good two and a half tanks. it ran well but i cant seem to get the engine to run real cool according to the manual, manual says after a few full throttle passes you should be able to put a drop of water on the head button and it should boil off in three or four seconds. i can richen it all day but it will just bog and not run correctly, i just kind of ignored that because it didnt work out well. should the piston be able to push the sleeve up a little bit at tdc ? because it spins over pretty easily with no pinch now with the head off. (took the button off and put it in the oven so i could set my temp gun to right setting)

VW,


Just throw that temp gun aside. It is just confusing you; giving you information that you don't need, which is not very accurate either.

It is just the latest means for hobby shops to get more of your money...


People have been successfully adjusting their glow engines by ear, for over 50 years, before temp guns became available...
It emerged, without there being a problem it could solve. Yet the sellers just try to convince you that there is a problem...

The problem is that many newbies become convinced and shell out cash, instead of listening to their elders and to their engines...


As far as any glow engine is concerned; if it runs right, it is at the right temperature; whether the water drop boils-off after 3 seconds, or after 10 and whatever value the temp gun is showing.


I do hope you did not run those two-and-a-half tanks idling...[X(]

EDIT: Grammar.

That high?
I've always been told, the idle speed is approximate 3000 RPM on a .21 car engine.

Cheers

Amen to that, Dar.

I never did do to much idleing with the engine, I did the heat cycle break in when the motor was new but let it idle for that one tank. ugh i wish i hadnt done that .. still the engine runs well i just hope it didn't cause any premature wear at tdc

Quote:

ORIGINAL: veedub

I never did do to much idling with the engine. I did the heat cycle break-in when the motor was new, but let it idle for that one tank. Ugh I wish I hadn't done that ... Still, the engine runs well, I just hope it didn't cause any premature wear at TDC.

VW,


Heat-cycling serves no purpose in any ABC engine.
It was very purposeful in older ('50s - early '70s) meehanite-steel engines, such as the Fox .35...

But ABC/ABN/AAC/Plasma Ceramic/Nikasil tapered-bore engines, only need to be run a bit richer than normal, to prevent localized heat-soak.


Please read [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Tapered%2DBore_Engine_Break%2Din_%2D_Upgraded/m_1850473/tm.htm]this thread[/link] and change whatever is necessary, to use it for car engines...