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Muffler Mute (Baffle)

Old 03-03-2010, 05:05 PM
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HighTest
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Default Muffler Mute (Baffle)

I have been looking at getting into club 40 racing. The local clubs that are racing (novice class) require plain bearing 40 class engines with a stock muffler and stock mute (baffle) if supplied from factory. I have a few good OS 40 FP's and an old Tower 40 which I think is just an FP clone. I have had these for several years and do not have a mute in any. I can't rember if they came from the factory with one or not. I don't want to violate the rules and can't find any information or part numbers for the mute. The mute is not listed in the parts list that came with the engines that I can find. Does anyone have information on the mute? Part number, size, existance? Thanks in advance for any help.
Old 03-03-2010, 05:29 PM
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w8ye
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Default RE: Muffler Mute (Baffle)

I think the OS 40 LA muffler works on these engines?

You can also still get the Tower 40 muffler
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJB15&P=7


Old 03-03-2010, 06:29 PM
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Default RE: Muffler Mute (Baffle)

The first thing allot of people do when the get a new engine is remove the baffle.
Maybe someone who has removed there baffle will sell it to you cheap or even give you one.

TW
Old 03-03-2010, 08:10 PM
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HighTest
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Default RE: Muffler Mute (Baffle)

Thanks for the replys. I guess it best to buy a new muffler assembly just to make sure I am legal. Thanks again.
Old 03-04-2010, 01:35 AM
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JEC55
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Default RE: Muffler Mute (Baffle)

I just bought a used OS 40FP and it is soaking for a cleanup. I took the muffler apart and if you need the baffle cone I can send it to you as I will not be using it.
Old 03-15-2010, 08:40 AM
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sgilkey
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Default RE: Muffler Mute (Baffle)

40FP E3030 muffler came with a mute from the factory. The current LA muffler comes with one also (I think it is also the 3030 muffler, in fact???). Don't know about the Tower 40, suspect probably NO mute. TTGP42 also comes with a mute from the factory. Magnum GP40, no mute.
Old 03-15-2010, 10:00 AM
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Default RE: Muffler Mute (Baffle)


ORIGINAL: sgilkey

40FP E3030 muffler came with a mute from the factory. The current LA muffler comes with one also (I think it is also the 3030 muffler, in fact???). Don't know about the Tower 40, suspect probably NO mute. TTGP42 also comes with a mute from the factory. Magnum GP40, no mute.


I get a kick out of folks that remove muffler mutes.

The carburetor throat size/fuel draw ability is matched to the amount of pressure that the muffler can provide the fuel tank. Change any factor in that equation and it spells trouble.

Okay, you just ran your engine on the test bench with the muffler mute in place. Let's just say for kicks that you tached the engine running at 11,750 peak. Now you remove the mute from the muffler, put it all back together, start the engine, readjust the carb (yep, you changed the amount of muffler pressure going to the fuel tank - so you have to readjust the carb). This time, when you tach the engine at peak rpm, you get a 150 rpm increase. Wow! A 150 rpm increase in rpm for nothing!!!

Not really.

What? Not free! Really?

You take your model to the field, range check it, fuel it up and fire up the engine. Then you go through the nose up running check. Uh, oh. Something is wrong. The old needle setting of two or three clicks richer than peak isn't cutting it today. Your engine is too lean when you hold the nose up. Readjust the high speed needle another two or three turns richer. There! That did it.

You get permission to takeoff and your buddy places the model on the runway. Now you are ready for takeoff. You begin your roll, perform a little rudder correction for the slight cross wind and you're up and off the ground. But something is wrong. Your engine is way too rich. But that doesn't make sense. You just set it perfectly. You and your buddy look at each other with a what's up shrug of your shoulders.

You land the model successfull, walk over to it and lean the mixture one or two turns then takeoff again. Better, but now the engine is leaning out too much in the climbs. ***?

Well, there is the story in a nutshell. Some folks never connect the dots and realize that their engines carbs were coordinated with their mufflers, keeping the metering and fuel feed in the "choice" range with all of the components intact. Change one little thing and you are off into dangerous territory. I have seen fellows leaning their engines out, once de-muted, in order to get back those two or three hundred rpm they lost when they adjusted their needle valve to compensate for the lack of muffler pressure. These folks are the ones screaming about "junk" engines that are either burned up immediately after put into service, or are engines that are constantly dead-sticking. These folks were sold a bill of goods when their equally ignorant buddy mentioned the idea of getting that extra bit of rpm by de-muting their muffler.


Ed Cregger

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