YS 110 Information Please...
#1
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From: Springfield,
MO
I have a YS 110 coming and would sure appreciate any information anyone could send my way pertaining to this engine. It is going on a Quest 3D could anyone give advise as to a prop etc...Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide...
#3
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Final prop selction depends a little on flying application and nitro. With Coolpower 30%, 16-8 puts the RPMs in the 9200-9400 range, perfect for the motor. For 20% nitro, smaller props (15-8,16-6,7 will work well). Look for keeping it in the 9200-9600 range. On 30%, we were turning 10,300 on the 15-8.
For pattern, a 15-10 is awesome. I agree with the break-in prop as a 15-8. Also, put this one on the bench for a few tanks full. I recommend a gallon on the bench. Many people running this motor are experiencing deadsticks due to overheating. Once the piston and ring seat in nicely, the motor will reach complete reliability and maintain nice even temperatures.
Mark
For pattern, a 15-10 is awesome. I agree with the break-in prop as a 15-8. Also, put this one on the bench for a few tanks full. I recommend a gallon on the bench. Many people running this motor are experiencing deadsticks due to overheating. Once the piston and ring seat in nicely, the motor will reach complete reliability and maintain nice even temperatures.
Mark
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From: Springfield,
MO
Mark,
I plan on using my Coolpower 30% heli fuel for this engine and fly mostly pattern with it. I am not too concerned with dead stick situations and am wondering that it might run cooler during break-in if it is moving through the air after a few tanks on the ground? What do you think? Where I fly the dead stick landing are not much of a problem....Thanks......
I plan on using my Coolpower 30% heli fuel for this engine and fly mostly pattern with it. I am not too concerned with dead stick situations and am wondering that it might run cooler during break-in if it is moving through the air after a few tanks on the ground? What do you think? Where I fly the dead stick landing are not much of a problem....Thanks......
#5
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Heat is good during break in. The alloy parts in the motor need to be heat cycled to relieve stress and heat is needed so the motor will reach its operating tolerances. Modern motors are designed so clearances are right at a certain operating temperature.
If you run rich (so you have to keep glow heat on to keep it running) on the bench it will keep cool enough to safely run 10 minute intervals. I run 6 - 10 minute break in runs then I fly rich (700rpm below peak) through the rest of the gallon.
If you run rich (so you have to keep glow heat on to keep it running) on the bench it will keep cool enough to safely run 10 minute intervals. I run 6 - 10 minute break in runs then I fly rich (700rpm below peak) through the rest of the gallon.
#6
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From: New Bern,
NC
Synthetic,
I have the same combo Quest/YS110. When I bought my 110 from Central Hobbies they recommended a 14x11 for break in. Only 1/2 gallon through it but turns 9500 rich on 20/20. Good speed but a little more thrust would be nice. I ordered a 15x8 and a 15/10 to try. You will love that engine. Plenty of power for the Quest.
I have the same combo Quest/YS110. When I bought my 110 from Central Hobbies they recommended a 14x11 for break in. Only 1/2 gallon through it but turns 9500 rich on 20/20. Good speed but a little more thrust would be nice. I ordered a 15x8 and a 15/10 to try. You will love that engine. Plenty of power for the Quest.
#7
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From: Istanbul, TURKEY
ORIGINAL: MarkNovack
Final prop selction depends a little on flying application and nitro. With Coolpower 30%, 16-8 puts the RPMs in the 9200-9400 range, perfect for the motor. For 20% nitro, smaller props (15-8,16-6,7 will work well). Look for keeping it in the 9200-9600 range. On 30%, we were turning 10,300 on the 15-8.
For pattern, a 15-10 is awesome. I agree with the break-in prop as a 15-8. Also, put this one on the bench for a few tanks full. I recommend a gallon on the bench. Many people running this motor are experiencing deadsticks due to overheating. Once the piston and ring seat in nicely, the motor will reach complete reliability and maintain nice even temperatures.
Mark
Final prop selction depends a little on flying application and nitro. With Coolpower 30%, 16-8 puts the RPMs in the 9200-9400 range, perfect for the motor. For 20% nitro, smaller props (15-8,16-6,7 will work well). Look for keeping it in the 9200-9600 range. On 30%, we were turning 10,300 on the 15-8.
For pattern, a 15-10 is awesome. I agree with the break-in prop as a 15-8. Also, put this one on the bench for a few tanks full. I recommend a gallon on the bench. Many people running this motor are experiencing deadsticks due to overheating. Once the piston and ring seat in nicely, the motor will reach complete reliability and maintain nice even temperatures.
Mark
Generally OS and other 140 size 2 cycle manufacturers ( Webra ) advertise their two strokes by saying these do not have the complexity and maintenance of 4 strokers. I would like to ask YS users that is there something has to be done extra to maintain YS engines? The most compex thing I do with my 4 strokes are adjusting the valves in every 50 - 100 flights, MAYBE a bearing change every year. Isn't it the same with YS ?
#9
I just bought this engine and I do not have it yet. I was searching to find recommended props. DOes anyone know why tower hobbies has the recommended props as follows:
Recommended Props: 13x11, 13x13, 13.5x10, 14x10, 14x12
I notice no one here is using any of these? please help...
Recommended Props: 13x11, 13x13, 13.5x10, 14x10, 14x12
I notice no one here is using any of these? please help...
#12
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: Wolfpack
I just bought this engine and I do not have it yet. I was searching to find recommended props. DOes anyone know why tower hobbies has the recommended props as follows:
Recommended Props: 13x11, 13x13, 13.5x10, 14x10, 14x12
I notice no one here is using any of these? please help...
I just bought this engine and I do not have it yet. I was searching to find recommended props. DOes anyone know why tower hobbies has the recommended props as follows:
Recommended Props: 13x11, 13x13, 13.5x10, 14x10, 14x12
I notice no one here is using any of these? please help...
#16
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From: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
The prop sizes Tower Hobbies quote are the ones in the YS operating manual that comes with the engine. No check valve is included in the engine box, only a filter.
I am putting the 1.10 in my TF P40, will the 15x8 prop be ok, or does anyone else recommend another size?
I am putting the 1.10 in my TF P40, will the 15x8 prop be ok, or does anyone else recommend another size?
#18
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From: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Richard, just went and looked in the box and opened the plastic bag the valve was in, yes you are right it is a check valve not a filter, Now why cannt YS get their manual correct in this day and age?, it says in the parts supplied in box, 1 filter. never mind, and I went and brought another check valve.
What size prop would you erecommend for the TF P40? It will not be installed for another couple of months but will bench run it when it gets warm enough to stick my head out of the house.
Any particular recommendations on fuel type? 20 - 30% nitro fuel is pretty impossible to get over here and costs an absolute fortune , about £30 a gallon in my model shop if they have it in, I will shop around and try to find something soon .
Thanks for the help.
What size prop would you erecommend for the TF P40? It will not be installed for another couple of months but will bench run it when it gets warm enough to stick my head out of the house.
Any particular recommendations on fuel type? 20 - 30% nitro fuel is pretty impossible to get over here and costs an absolute fortune , about £30 a gallon in my model shop if they have it in, I will shop around and try to find something soon .
Thanks for the help.
#19

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ORIGINAL: djay
What size prop would you erecommend for the TF P40?
What size prop would you erecommend for the TF P40?
#20
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: djay
Richard, just went and looked in the box and opened the plastic bag the valve was in, yes you are right it is a check valve not a filter, Now why cannt YS get their manual correct in this day and age?, it says in the parts supplied in box, 1 filter. never mind, and I went and brought another check valve.
What size prop would you erecommend for the TF P40? It will not be installed for another couple of months but will bench run it when it gets warm enough to stick my head out of the house.
Any particular recommendations on fuel type? 20 - 30% nitro fuel is pretty impossible to get over here and costs an absolute fortune , about £30 a gallon in my model shop if they have it in, I will shop around and try to find something soon .
Thanks for the help.
Richard, just went and looked in the box and opened the plastic bag the valve was in, yes you are right it is a check valve not a filter, Now why cannt YS get their manual correct in this day and age?, it says in the parts supplied in box, 1 filter. never mind, and I went and brought another check valve.
What size prop would you erecommend for the TF P40? It will not be installed for another couple of months but will bench run it when it gets warm enough to stick my head out of the house.
Any particular recommendations on fuel type? 20 - 30% nitro fuel is pretty impossible to get over here and costs an absolute fortune , about £30 a gallon in my model shop if they have it in, I will shop around and try to find something soon .
Thanks for the help.




