ASP FS61 midrange problems
#26
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: winston,
MO
Now 1 of the things I have seen is someone bottoming out the lsn with out removing the hsn which damages the spraybar and or the lsn. Making it run rich in the 1/4 throttle range
IF you are an exp engine tuner an can't seem to tune it then yeah I'd change the carb.
I do love OS twin needle carbs try it an let us know
IF you are an exp engine tuner an can't seem to tune it then yeah I'd change the carb.
I do love OS twin needle carbs try it an let us know
#28
ORIGINAL: kerwin50
Now 1 of the things I have seen is someone bottoming out the lsn with out removing the hsn which damages the spraybar and or the lsn. Making it run rich in the 1/4 throttle range
IF you are an exp engine tuner an can't seem to tune it then yeah I'd change the carb.
I do love OS twin needle carbs try it an let us know
Now 1 of the things I have seen is someone bottoming out the lsn with out removing the hsn which damages the spraybar and or the lsn. Making it run rich in the 1/4 throttle range
IF you are an exp engine tuner an can't seem to tune it then yeah I'd change the carb.
I do love OS twin needle carbs try it an let us know
OTOH OS carbs are usually very good.
#30
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Whittier, CA
Had the same problem and has anyone thought to check the fuel tank? My ASP .61 FS runs GREAT on my break in stand with needle valve exactly at the half way height of the tank. But when I put it in the plane where the top of the tank is just below the needle it won't idle worth a darn. I put a fuel pump on it and it ran perfect! It might be the tank is the problem. Placement, leaks, kinks, clog, etc.....
#31
Senior Member
Hello, it's me trying to get my "problem engine" to run again
I apologize for the long post.
Background:
A few years ago I bought an ASP FS61 for my Flyin' King. No matter how I tuned it, the midrange was way too rich, even with the top and bottom leaned out as much as possible. I got a new carb from the shop, and the problems were still there. After a couple of gallons I finally gave up and decided not to use the engine. Earlier this week I decided to try again. Top and bottom are great, but if I leave it at half throttle, rpms gradually decrease, and it smokes and vibrates a lot.
What I have tried so far:
- A new carb (same type)
- Several glow plugs (all OS F)
- Different types of fuel (Byron 4T 15%, Rapicon 15% HLS, JeRo 5%)
- Different APC props (12x6, 12x8, 13x6, 13x4W)
- Checking the valves
- Moving the camshaft one tooth either way
- Using RTV on the intake to prevent leaks
- Fuel tubing on the needle valve
- I even tried the carb from my FS30. The mounting pattern is the same. With this carb the midrange is clean, but the engine won't idle, and the top end RPM is lower (for obvious reasons).
- If I turn the needle valve appr. half a turn in, the midrange is clean, but I can't go past 2/3 throttle without running too lean. This leads me to thinking that the carb is the problem.
Next on my list is:
What if I bought a 40N (OS FS-52S) or a 40NA (OS FS-56a) carb? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I have understood that they are interchangeable. I have only had good experience with OS carbs myself, and my OS FS-52S (sold) was smooth regardless of rpm.
What do you think? Should I buy an OS carb and give it a go? It is less than half the price of a new ASP engine.
I apologize for the long post.Background:
A few years ago I bought an ASP FS61 for my Flyin' King. No matter how I tuned it, the midrange was way too rich, even with the top and bottom leaned out as much as possible. I got a new carb from the shop, and the problems were still there. After a couple of gallons I finally gave up and decided not to use the engine. Earlier this week I decided to try again. Top and bottom are great, but if I leave it at half throttle, rpms gradually decrease, and it smokes and vibrates a lot.
What I have tried so far:
- A new carb (same type)
- Several glow plugs (all OS F)
- Different types of fuel (Byron 4T 15%, Rapicon 15% HLS, JeRo 5%)
- Different APC props (12x6, 12x8, 13x6, 13x4W)
- Checking the valves
- Moving the camshaft one tooth either way
- Using RTV on the intake to prevent leaks
- Fuel tubing on the needle valve
- I even tried the carb from my FS30. The mounting pattern is the same. With this carb the midrange is clean, but the engine won't idle, and the top end RPM is lower (for obvious reasons).
- If I turn the needle valve appr. half a turn in, the midrange is clean, but I can't go past 2/3 throttle without running too lean. This leads me to thinking that the carb is the problem.
Next on my list is:
What if I bought a 40N (OS FS-52S) or a 40NA (OS FS-56a) carb? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I have understood that they are interchangeable. I have only had good experience with OS carbs myself, and my OS FS-52S (sold) was smooth regardless of rpm.
What do you think? Should I buy an OS carb and give it a go? It is less than half the price of a new ASP engine.
I have been able to reduce a rich mid range by using an open '90 degreeT' in the fuel line between the muffler and the carburetor (2 stroke engine). The solution is repeatable and very little trouble.
I have used the solution on two different engines with great success. It acts like an air bleed at mid throttle with no visible affect on the top or bottom end. It also takes less than 5 minutes to try and is reversible.





