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RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: rrengineer Ebay item number 290618529766. $18.99 plus $2.75 shipping. I bought 4 to try them out. There is no carbon on the piston or in the exhaust. |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: earlwb I typically use Fox Miracle glow plugs in my 4 stroke engines. It works well for me. If I remember right they sell for around $7.95 each maybe less. But when glow plugs cost about $20 each with $275 shipping, it is too rich for my blood. :) I remember last year when Horizon accidentally listed Saito glow plugs for $34.95 each plus shipping. Of course they corrected it fairly fast, I hope no one got ripped off at the time though. |
RE: Club Enya
I know you probably have done it already, but have you tried test running the engine on a engine test stand instead of your airboat (I assume)?
When something isn't behaving, I pull the engine out of whatever it was in and put it on the test stand. If it runs good there, then I know where to look for the problem. I have had engines before have running problems in a airplane, but I didn't see anything wrong. So I test run the engine on a test stand and it runs good again. So then I know there is a problem with the fuel system somewhere. I had this happen once and when I pulled out the fuel tank and got to looking at everything I discovered the fuel tubing was partially blocked off with a chunk of silicon tubing inside. Apparently when they were extruding the tubing or something, a glob came off and went on down the line like that. It was very difficult to see too. I have also bought fuel tubing in bulk before and found tiny bits of styrofoam inside the tubing too. Then one time I found a little bug wedged inside the tubing too. Someone else had no end of trouble with a engine and they discovered the fuel tubing wasn't hollow at all, but solid, but the ends were hollow though. That sure makes for some frustrating issues. One other thought is the carb might have a issue with it. Wrong needle valve for the engine maybe, or a partially clogged or obstructed passage or something. It isn't common with the Japanese engines but every once in a blue moon they mess up a carb somehow at the factory. |
RE: Club Enya
Earl - I did indeed have it on my test stand for quite awhile. 1 hour break-in time and another hour or so getting a feel for the carburetor and learning the engines quirks. I noted that it cut out on transition on the stand and learned of the need to have it burbly on the low end. It ran o.k. This way, transitioning slowly because it was so rich. On the craft, I had it set up the same way, same prop, and put an OS f plug in it. If its not obscenely rich, it cuts out on transition even with a slow servo. So back to the sloppy rich idle (airbleed nearly closed) and slow transition. It is not very smooth, and the weird 7300rpm lean-out has me bothered. The tank is an 8oz Hayes, medium Dubro tubing which is all new, no muffler so tank is vented. I even went so far as to open the 3rd port on the tank so it has two vents, no change.
No air bubbles in the fuel line, either. Crankcase vent has about 4" of tubing coming off of it, it runs no different without any tubing attached. Edit: The carb is clean. Been through it 4 times now. The metering grooves in the barrel were checked for crud and debris, and there was none found. took a Xacto blade to the groove just to make sure its clean, and it is. The needle assembly was removed, blown through with compressed air. Replaced all tubing again. I changed back to the 12x6 APC prop and kept the new McCoy MC4C plug in it. With the 12x6 prop on it, it behaves better. The lean spot in the upper part of the rpm is up to about 8200rpm but doesnt cut out quite as bad. I didnt leave the throttle there for very long to see if it would quit, but I think it still would. Maybe its just not ready for higher prop loads? When the video is done uploading, I'll post a link. |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: Ram Jet I was going to suggest the Enya #3 plug to you. Over the years I have read over and over again on this forum that the #3 is what two and four cycle Enyas like. Myself i don't mind buying Enya plugs regardless of the cost. Why, because the poor SOBs at Enya have never gotten a dime from me. I bought my .09, 2-.19s, .40BB, .46, 1.55 all on eBay. I feel a-little guilty. Especially when I contacted Ken Enya yesterday and asked for the PDFs of the specs and instruction shetts for my .46 and 1.55. They were in my E-mail box inside of two hours. Great support from a great company and I buy my engines on eBay. I hang my head. Buy the GD #3s from Enya direct. They are great plugs and how much effort have you put into your engines thus far? What's a couple of bucks for what I think are the finest model engines you can buy? Cheers, Bill Good move! Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: Ram Jet The last time I went looking for Enya #3 plugs, I couldn't find any nearby. Most of the online shops that sell them were either out of stock or wanted $12 each PLUS shipping. I just came across a new shop I hadn't seen before that has them for $6 each plus $6 for shipping, and I get a first time buyer 10% discount. I ordered three plugs. When they show up, I will promptly try one. Good move! Cheers, Bill http://youtu.be/In_pGCyAQsE This is the best I can get it to run, period. |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: earlwb I typically use Fox Miracle glow plugs in my 4 stroke engines. It works well for me. If I remember right they sell for around $7.95 each maybe less. But when glow plugs cost about $20 each with $275 shipping, it is too rich for my blood. :) I remember last year when Horizon accidentally listed Saito glow plugs for $34.95 each plus shipping. Of course they corrected it fairly fast, I hope no one got ripped off at the time though. And there is part of your problem (15 to 20% nitro in fuel). This was one of the first glow four-stroke engines ever made. In those days, most of the world was still running no or very little nitromethane in the fuel. If the timing is advanced too far by running too much nitromethane in the fuel of a glow engine, how do you retard the timing? The smartest way is by reducing the amount of nitromethane. When I first bought my new Enya 80-4C, I was curious as to how it would run on 5% nitro fuel. It ran great. One of the local four-stroke experts, Jim Garrahan (May he rest in peace) advised me that the Enya four-strokes of the days needed to run a bit juicy at idle, when compared to contemporary two-strokes. It turned out that he was right. The Enya 60 & 80 4C engines will never throttle as well as a modern Saito or OS four-stroke. They will stay running when many modern engines would have quit. If you're looking for an engine with snappy throttle response, the Enya engines' designs are too old to bring you any joy. On the other hand, if you want reliable running engines that will run a long, long time, then they will make you quite happy. Ed Cregger |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: NM2K ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: earlwb I typically use Fox Miracle glow plugs in my 4 stroke engines. It works well for me. If I remember right they sell for around $7.95 each maybe less. But when glow plugs cost about $20 each with $275 shipping, it is too rich for my blood. :) I remember last year when Horizon accidentally listed Saito glow plugs for $34.95 each plus shipping. Of course they corrected it fairly fast, I hope no one got ripped off at the time though. And there is part of your problem (15 to 20% nitro in fuel). This was one of the first glow four-stroke engines ever made. In those days, most of the world was still running no or very little nitromethane in the fuel. If the timing is advanced too far by running too much nitromethane in the fuel of a glow engine, how do you retard the timing? The smartest way is by reducing the amount of nitromethane. When I first bought my new Enya 80-4C, I was curious as to how it would run on 5% nitro fuel. It ran great. One of the local four-stroke experts, Jim Garrahan (May he rest in peace) advised me that the Enya four-strokes of the days needed to run a bit juicy at idle, when compared to contemporary two-strokes. It turned out that he was right. The Enya 60 & 80 4C engines will never throttle as well as a modern Saito or OS four-stroke. They will stay running when many modern engines would have quit. If you're looking for an engine with snappy throttle response, the Enya engines' designs are too old to bring you any joy. On the other hand, if you want reliable running engines that will run a long, long time, then they will make you quite happy. Ed Cregger As usual Ed you are right on it. You make a ton of sense. Maybe things I should keep in mind when I first fire-up my .46 4-C and my 1.55 4-C. I have read over and over again here the the Enya four cycles like 5% nitro. Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r Thats good to know, Bill. I'll make a note of that if/when I have to replace the bearings in my 60-4C. I found another bearing joint on the internet, AvidRC.com. These guys sell a huge assortment of bearings, all for $1 each. I bought a bunch of their bearings for my RC cars axles and transmissions, and so far they seem smooth and work well. I dont know if they carry engine bearings or not. I'll have to look into it. Since I'm thinking about it, I have to ask the Enya folks here... My 60-4C has about a gallon through it now, tried several different glow plugs. I can get satisfactory performance from it, but it will not transition smoothly from idle. Either its lean and cuts out slightly on transition, or its burpy and smokey and transition is slow. Sounds as though its going to quit. If I set it between these two ''extremes'' it will still burp and gurgle. Will this engine ever transition smoothly? I've read a number of articles and reviews of this engine when it came out (the last article was a review by Peter Chinn) and they've all said that these engines ran well, transitioned good, and ran on straight FAI fuel for break-in. I've tried several plugs, OS F, Fox Idlebar, Fox Miracle, McCoy 59. Fuel I've tried is 5% nitro / 20% castor, 15% nitro / 18% oil (80/20) byrons gen2, 20% nitro / 20% oil (50/50 cas/klotz). Props I've ran are 12x6 and 13x6 APC, both fully balanced (blades and hub). On the 12x6 it transitions rich, but it sounds better than when running on the 13x6. After revving up and back down to idle, it hangs a high idle for a moment, then drops to the burbly rich idle it seems to like. If you try throttling it before this ''high idle'' drops, it cuts out. I have the engine idling between 2700-3000rpm per the Enya instruction leaflet. The airbleed is about 2/3 closed, and to get it to idle at this setting, the throttle barrel is open about 1/4-1/3 of its travel. Any thoughts? Am I beating a dead horse expecting a relatively smooth transition? I expect some burbles, but the other day while running the engine it quit on me in an inconvenient spot. I've been running it about 300rpm rich of peak RPM. Just FYI. Thers a complete bearing set on eBay for and .80 4-C for a buy it now of $42.00 on Ebay. Any chance the .80 bearings will fit your .60? If so I'll give you the item number. Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: NM2K ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: earlwb I typically use Fox Miracle glow plugs in my 4 stroke engines. It works well for me. If I remember right they sell for around $7.95 each maybe less. But when glow plugs cost about $20 each with $275 shipping, it is too rich for my blood. :) I remember last year when Horizon accidentally listed Saito glow plugs for $34.95 each plus shipping. Of course they corrected it fairly fast, I hope no one got ripped off at the time though. And there is part of your problem (15 to 20% nitro in fuel). Ed Cregger I dont care if its not snappy and ultra smooth, I dont want it to quit. It quit on me last weekend in a bad place and that has me concerned. I don't trust it yet. I'll put the proper glow plug in it, run the normal fuel I normally use (5% nitro 20% castor) and try again. The only engines I run on 20% nitro on a regular basis is my r/c car engines because thats what they're designed to run on. All of my Aero engines except my TT .46 are designed for little or no nitro so I use very little 99.9% of the time. ORIGINAL: Ram Jet Just FYI. Thers a complete bearing set on eBay for and .80 4-C for a buy it now of $42.00 on Ebay. Any chance the .80 bearings will fit your .60? If so I'll give you the item number. Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: NM2K ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: earlwb I typically use Fox Miracle glow plugs in my 4 stroke engines. It works well for me. If I remember right they sell for around $7.95 each maybe less. But when glow plugs cost about $20 each with $275 shipping, it is too rich for my blood. :) I remember last year when Horizon accidentally listed Saito glow plugs for $34.95 each plus shipping. Of course they corrected it fairly fast, I hope no one got ripped off at the time though. And there is part of your problem (15 to 20% nitro in fuel). Ed Cregger I dont care if its not snappy and ultra smooth, I dont want it to quit. It quit on me last weekend in a bad place and that has me concerned. I don't trust it yet. I'll put the proper glow plug in it, run the normal fuel I normally use (5% nitro 20% castor) and try again. The only engines I run on 20% nitro on a regular basis is my r/c car engines because thats what they're designed to run on. All of my Aero engines except my TT .46 are designed for little or no nitro so I use very little 99.9% of the time. ORIGINAL: Ram Jet I went to the RC Bearing website yesterday and was disappointed. They did not have bearings for my .46 listed on their site and there was a statement that they no longer took phone orders. Bye bye RC Bearings. Then I went to Boca Bearings website and they only had 3 of the four bearings I needed but the three they did have were in stainless steel. Then I found all four bearingsd from one seller on eBay for $40.00. I'm waiting to hear back from the seller about some specifics. I too am nervous bout buying bearings on eBay. We'll see. I should probably just contact Ken Enya and buy them direct. I'll keep you posted. Cheers, Bill Just FYI. Thers a complete bearing set on eBay for and .80 4-C for a buy it now of $42.00 on Ebay. Any chance the .80 bearings will fit your .60? If so I'll give you the item number. Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
My Enya four-strokes seldom quit running, if ever, unless out of fuel, BUT that is after break-in. Break-in times vary considerably, depending on ambient temperature, fuel type, prop size, glow plug brand, etc. As Jim Garrahan used to tell me, keep it rich and you won't hurt a thing.
Ed Cregger |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: Ram Jet I was going to suggest the Enya #3 plug to you. Over the years I have read over and over again on this forum that the #3 is what two and four cycle Enyas like. Myself i don't mind buying Enya plugs regardless of the cost. Why, because the poor SOBs at Enya have never gotten a dime from me. I bought my .09, 2-.19s, .40BB, .46, 1.55 all on eBay. I feel a-little guilty. Especially when I contacted Ken Enya yesterday and asked for the PDFs of the specs and instruction shetts for my .46 and 1.55. They were in my E-mail box inside of two hours. Great support from a great company and I buy my engines on eBay. I hang my head. Buy the GD #3s from Enya direct. They are great plugs and how much effort have you put into your engines thus far? What's a couple of bucks for what I think are the finest model engines you can buy? Cheers, Bill As long as your engine hasn't taken to shedding bits and pieces internally, the Enya #3 glow plug should last a good long time. Just keep that fuel mixture a bit on the rich side. Even the best glow plug in the world can be melted into obliviion with a lean run. I know that you know better, but there may be some folks reading this that haven't thought about it before. Ed Cregger |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: NM2K My Enya four-strokes seldom quit running, if ever, unless out of fuel, BUT that is after break-in. Break-in times vary considerably, depending on ambient temperature, fuel type, prop size, glow plug brand, etc. As Jim Garrahan used to tell me, keep it rich and you won't hurt a thing. Ed Cregger Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: Ram Jet ORIGINAL: NM2K My Enya four-strokes seldom quit running, if ever, unless out of fuel, BUT that is after break-in. Break-in times vary considerably, depending on ambient temperature, fuel type, prop size, glow plug brand, etc. As Jim Garrahan used to tell me, keep it rich and you won't hurt a thing. Ed Cregger Cheers, Bill Wow! Gordon Jennings as a mentor! It doesn't get any better than that. And I agree with the statement about never having too much oil. Well, almost never having too much oil. Some of the larger glow engines don't care much for it, but I've often thought that that was just a symptom of h aving the engine a little too tight. Ed Cregger |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: Ram Jet I'll let you know what RC Bearing charges. I think about half or less than the prices you mentioned and you can be sure of the quality from RC Bearings. I'll post the prices - promise. Cheers, Bill As promised here is where my search for bearings has taken me. I visited the RC Bearings website and they didn't list the bearings I needed and no longer accept phone orders. So bye, bye RC Bearings. I then went to Boca bearings and they had only three of the four bearings I needed - in stainless. Bye bye Boca. Then this morning I got (from my eBay "saved search' feature) an E-mail with a .46 4-C rebuild kit which included a Frank Bowan ring. for $40.00. I passed on the ring because I just ordered two from F.Bowman so he offered me the four bearings I need for $24.00. You guys might want to contact this fellow Noel, at [email protected] the next time you need Enya parts. By the way the bearings are genuine Enya replacement parts. See that! You don't have to spend $80.00 for freakin' bearings. Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: NM2K ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: Ram Jet I was going to suggest the Enya #3 plug to you. Over the years I have read over and over again on this forum that the #3 is what two and four cycle Enyas like. Myself i don't mind buying Enya plugs regardless of the cost. Why, because the poor SOBs at Enya have never gotten a dime from me. I bought my .09, 2-.19s, .40BB, .46, 1.55 all on eBay. I feel a-little guilty. Especially when I contacted Ken Enya yesterday and asked for the PDFs of the specs and instruction shetts for my .46 and 1.55. They were in my E-mail box inside of two hours. Great support from a great company and I buy my engines on eBay. I hang my head. Buy the GD #3s from Enya direct. They are great plugs and how much effort have you put into your engines thus far? What's a couple of bucks for what I think are the finest model engines you can buy? Cheers, Bill As long as your engine hasn't taken to shedding bits and pieces internally, the Enya #3 glow plug should last a good long time. Just keep that fuel mixture a bit on the rich side. Even the best glow plug in the world can be melted into obliviion with a lean run. I know that you know better, but there may be some folks reading this that haven't thought about it before. Ed Cregger Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: NM2K ORIGINAL: Ram Jet ORIGINAL: NM2K My Enya four-strokes seldom quit running, if ever, unless out of fuel, BUT that is after break-in. Break-in times vary considerably, depending on ambient temperature, fuel type, prop size, glow plug brand, etc. As Jim Garrahan used to tell me, keep it rich and you won't hurt a thing. Ed Cregger Cheers, Bill Wow! Gordon Jennings as a mentor! It doesn't get any better than that. And I agree with the statement about never having too much oil. Well, almost never having too much oil. Some of the larger glow engines don't care much for it, but I've often thought that that was just a symptom of h aving the engine a little too tight. Ed Cregger Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
Ed and Bill; thanks for all of your wisdom and advice. It is well received. I always run my engines a bit rich, usually 300-400rpm at least. None of mine get airborne yet so they never unload. This will change, but not for awhile. Got a little boy on the way so hobby time will get limited next year. Nonetheless, I will be patient with my 4C, and it will always get a castor diet. My SS30bb runs fabulous on 25% castor.
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RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r Ed and Bill; thanks for all of your wisdom and advice. It is well received. I always run my engines a bit rich, usually 300-400rpm at least. None of mine get airborne yet so they never unload. This will change, but not for awhile. Got a little boy on the way so hobby time will get limited next year. Nonetheless, I will be patient with my 4C, and it will always get a castor diet. My SS30bb runs fabulous on 25% castor. I have a brand new .40BB I'm going to install in a Brodak ARF Oriental C/L plane. Would you recommend 25% nitro in the .40? 25% scares me a-little. Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: Ram Jet ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r Ed and Bill; thanks for all of your wisdom and advice. It is well received. I always run my engines a bit rich, usually 300-400rpm at least. None of mine get airborne yet so they never unload. This will change, but not for awhile. Got a little boy on the way so hobby time will get limited next year. Nonetheless, I will be patient with my 4C, and it will always get a castor diet. My SS30bb runs fabulous on 25% castor. I have a brand new .40BB I'm going to install in a Brodak ARF Oriental C/L plane. Would you recommend 25% nitro in the .40? 25% scares me a-little. Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: Ram Jet ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r Ed and Bill; thanks for all of your wisdom and advice. It is well received. I always run my engines a bit rich, usually 300-400rpm at least. None of mine get airborne yet so they never unload. This will change, but not for awhile. Got a little boy on the way so hobby time will get limited next year. Nonetheless, I will be patient with my 4C, and it will always get a castor diet. My SS30bb runs fabulous on 25% castor. I have a brand new .40BB I'm going to install in a Brodak ARF Oriental C/L plane. Would you recommend 25% nitro in the .40? 25% scares me a-little. Cheers, Bill I have a little K&B 3.5 out board engine. It was my eBay screw Job. All new bearings, con rod, cranshaft. I added a cetrifugal clutch. I've installed a Prather exhaust throttle also. I'm thinking about installing a Perry 3701 carb. The K&B carb is a full throttle affair and I don't believe you can get a decent idle out of it. The Perry should idle down nicely which is ideal with a clutch. There will be no fire it up and toss it. It'll be fire it up and place it in the water - then hit the throttle. Would you recommend 25% nitro fpr my 3.5? Cheers, Bi |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: Ram Jet ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: Ram Jet ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r Ed and Bill; thanks for all of your wisdom and advice. It is well received. I always run my engines a bit rich, usually 300-400rpm at least. None of mine get airborne yet so they never unload. This will change, but not for awhile. Got a little boy on the way so hobby time will get limited next year. Nonetheless, I will be patient with my 4C, and it will always get a castor diet. My SS30bb runs fabulous on 25% castor. I have a brand new .40BB I'm going to install in a Brodak ARF Oriental C/L plane. Would you recommend 25% nitro in the .40? 25% scares me a-little. Cheers, Bill I have a little K&B 3.5 out board engine. It was my eBay screw Job. All new bearings, con rod, cranshaft. I added a cetrifugal clutch. I've installed a Prather exhaust throttle also. I'm thinking about installing a Perry 3701 carb. The K&B carb is a full throttle affair and I don't believe you can get a decent idle out of it. The Perry should idle down nicely which is ideal with a clutch. There will be no fire it up and toss it. It'll be fire it up and place it in the water - then hit the throttle. Would you recommend 25% nitro fpr my 3.5? Cheers, Bi |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: Ram Jet ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: Ram Jet ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r Ed and Bill; thanks for all of your wisdom and advice. It is well received. I always run my engines a bit rich, usually 300-400rpm at least. None of mine get airborne yet so they never unload. This will change, but not for awhile. Got a little boy on the way so hobby time will get limited next year. Nonetheless, I will be patient with my 4C, and it will always get a castor diet. My SS30bb runs fabulous on 25% castor. I have a brand new .40BB I'm going to install in a Brodak ARF Oriental C/L plane. Would you recommend 25% nitro in the .40? 25% scares me a-little. Cheers, Bill Cheers, Bill I have a little K&B 3.5 out board engine. It was my eBay screw Job. All new bearings, con rod, cranshaft. I added a cetrifugal clutch. I've installed a Prather exhaust throttle also. I'm thinking about installing a Perry 3701 carb. The K&B carb is a full throttle affair and I don't believe you can get a decent idle out of it. The Perry should idle down nicely which is ideal with a clutch. There will be no fire it up and toss it. It'll be fire it up and place it in the water - then hit the throttle. Would you recommend 25% nitro fpr my 3.5? Cheers, Bi |
RE: Club Enya
Bill - start with 10% nitro and 20% oil. Boats are loaded like airplanes so run plenty of oil. If you find the engine doggy, add nitro or drop the head. I'm not sure how compressed those engines are.
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